So I had switched the RACETRUCK over to some 15W40 diesel engine oil because flat tappets and stuffs. I tried this oil change with some Walmart Super Tech supet tech. Just running the samples now but early results show ~1000 Phos, 1100 Zinc and almost 3k Calcium. Should be plenty of protection for flat tappets.
Side note, I highly doubt this engine is going to make it all season with this much bearing material in the oil. I guess it's time to find that donor block.
The need for lots of ZDDP with flat tappets really depends on the cam and the valve spring pressures at play. Mild stock stuff will survive with a lot less than aggressive cams with stiff valve springs.
I remember my college Fuels & Lubes class, where we would cool oils down and heat them up to see how they react, where they flashed at, etc. Anyway, someone brought in a quart of Super Tech 10w30, auto stuff, which I think was a buck a quart at the time. Getting it cold made it turn so waxy at temperatures that our instructor said made him wonder if the oil actually met the specs on the bottle.
That said, the stuff you're talking about maybe has some good aspects re: the additive package. Something to consider, especially for one of my dumb "mix a few oils together to make my own blend" jobs. A quart of the cheap stuff might not be such a bad idea from a cost standpoint.
Rotella T5 is usually pretty well regarded and cheap isn't it?
Jaynen said:Rotella T5 is usually pretty well regarded and cheap isn't it?
The T5 is over $15, this stuff is under $10. If you burn as much as I do.... cheaperer is definitely better.
In reply to pres589 :
I've been using the synthetic stuff in everything the last 5 or 6 years. the last 3 I've been testing it. It's good oil at a great price. $17 for 5qts of cheap synthetic oil. Most of these formulations look like Pennzoil oils for the automotive grade stuff.
How does the SuperTech 5W30 full synthetic stuff check out in your tests?
In reply to Dr. Hess :
Got the current sample still testing but results look similar. This sample had ~8k miles and the current sample is at jus shy of 10k. I follow the OLM in the Sierra which is about once a year.
In reply to Bob the REAL oil guy. :
Thank you, that Valvoline oil with the ZDDP is pricey!
FYI you should buy my engine so I can get a 383.
In reply to Pete Gossett :
I've got...... $2.36 in my pocket. How much does that buy me?
Bob, what is your oil recommendation for my 1971 Ford 400, with 98,000 miles? I haven't done an oil change on it yet, but it needs one.
Also, how do you feel about X1-R or MT-10 additives?
I don’t believe in additives. I’ve heard and seen so much bs in regards to additives I’ve personally come to the “nope” attitude to all of them. Use a quality oil and either change it regularly or test and see what’s happening. That’s my personal opinion. Professionally I cannot make recommendations on specific oils. Just use something quality.
I do find it entertaining that I’ve been watching oil pressure drop when warm below 1500-2000 rpm. Down to around 10-15 lately and it takes about 30 seconds of continuous speeds to bring it up. Then to see the large amount of lead and copper along with a metric ton of iron in there verifies that the bearing tolerances probably aren’t as tight as they used to be. Honestly I’m excited to eventually tear this critter down.
Edit: keep in mind quality =/= expensive. There are great inexpensive oils out there that do just fine.
Bob the REAL oil guy. said:In reply to Pete Gossett :
I've got...... $2.36 in my pocket. How much does that buy me?
1.18CI
So, is the SuperTech 5W30 good or not?
Anecdotal, but that's what I use in most vehicles. The RN Truck got a rebuild at 290K because of 4 bent valves. The crank needed a light polish. There was .003 taper in the holes. I should have left the bottom end alone and just put a new head on it, but who knew?
In reply to Dr. Hess :
It's perfectly fine engine oil. I've been using it in her truck with the once yearly 8-10k intervals.
Dr. Hess said:Anecdotal, but that's what I use in most vehicles. The RN Truck got a rebuild at 290K because of 4 bent valves. The crank needed a light polish. There was .003 taper in the holes. I should have left the bottom end alone and just put a new head on it, but who knew?
I did just the opposite on Dad's 97 Tahoe. Had a cracked head, so I yanked them and had both gone over. Checked the cylinders and they crosshatching was very visible, no ridges so I figured it was good to go. Put the new heads on, drove it 8 miles and spun 2 bearings. HAd to pull the whole engine and put a crank kit and rings in.
Thanks. I change the oil at 5K intervals in most things. Less on the bikes, which mostly get conventional Harley oil. I have noticed a MPG improvement immediately post oil change on the cars and Truck.
I use Yamalube on the bike and change it about 2-3k. Since its a riceburner that oil has to be clutch, trans and engine oil all at the same time so it sees some serious abuse.
Wow, that's a good price. I like to run 15W50 in my old track car motors, like the BMW M20B25 and the Ford 5.0 H.O. This stuff looks like a much better deal.
Other alternative oils for flat tappets is single or multi grade oils for small 4 cycle engines or motorcycles.
Since they don't have "cats" they still have a high level of zinc.
Last I'd heard the diesel oil (15W-40) was going away from Zinc, too. Any specs on that oil to show it actually has zinc in it?
I like the M1 15W-50, as it still has zinc and Wally World usually has jugs of it for not much $$.
I've heard that running synthetic in my old engine will destroy the seals. Is there any truth to that?
snailmont5oh said:I've heard that running synthetic in my old engine will destroy the seals. Is there any truth to that?
Nope. Better oil might do some cleaning, but it won't hurt the seals. That rumor started from engines that had trashed seals already, but were so gunked up inside that the gunk was keeping the bad seals from leaking. Gunk got cleaned out by better oil and boom, now the engine leaks like a sieve.
snailmont5oh said:I've heard that running synthetic in my old engine will destroy the seals. Is there any truth to that?
Not really, some early synthetic oils did cause seals to shrink, but nothing remotely modern does that. But, synthetic oil can clean away sludge that was helping to hold the oil in on old (as in worn) engines, so changing to synthetic could cause oil leaks to start.
volvoclearinghouse said:Last I'd heard the diesel oil (15W-40) was going away from Zinc, too. Any specs on that oil to show it actually has zinc in it?
I like the M1 15W-50, as it still has zinc and Wally World usually has jugs of it for not much $$.
I'll post the results when it's done. The CJ4 formulations still HAVE 800-1000 of Phos and 900-1200 zinc. The new CK4's have about 20% less, but they are adding magnesium and boron to the add packs to compensate.
Bob the REAL oil guy. said:I don’t believe in additives. I’ve heard and seen so much bs in regards to additives I’ve personally come to the “nope” attitude to all of them. Use a quality oil and either change it regularly or test and see what’s happening. That’s my personal opinion. Professionally I cannot make recommendations on specific oils. Just use something quality.
Edit: keep in mind quality =/= expensive. There are great inexpensive oils out there that do just fine.
Maybe this has already been answered, but how does one go about discovering high quality, less expensive oils?
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