So I need to make a spacer for the rear CV on the van. The inner uses a flange, and in an effort to keep an off the shelf CV, I want to run a 1/4" spacer to keep the CV happy.
This is not something I really want to tackle. I'd have to find a way to cut a ring out of whatever material and then drill the holes into it. I have a drill press but no really good way of cutting the ring out unless I get a jigsaw and go at it. I don't believe there is that much room for error, so I'd rather get someone with better equipment.
First off would be material. If I had it 3d printed in ABS would it hold up? Or maybe Phenolic? Or should I just do it in AL and be done?
Secondly is finding someone to make it if I go AL. There are local waterjet cutters but I'm not sure if they'd be willing to do a one part run and with the setup fees it probably bust the budget. Next option is plasma CNC cut or milled on a CNC lathe. Not sure where to find someone or if I'll have the same kind of costs since its a one part deal.
Or is there someone here with the capabilities to do it for me? ![](/media/img/icons/smilies/crazy-18.png)
You talking about a spacer for the 6 bolt flange?
That you could whip up on a lathe. Non CNC.
Use an old CV for the drill pattern.
You're going to need longer bolts too.....
You talking about a spacer for the 6 bolt flange? Yes
That you could whip up on a lathe. Non CNC. If I had one
Use an old CV for the drill pattern. That's the plan I could drill the holes if I could get the ring cut or milled.
You're going to need longer bolts too.....The old ones are just long enough to thread in, I'll put three of them in as an alignment tool then run longer bolts in and swap them out. I'll just keep the factory bolts on hand for future use.
Draw a detailed print with proper measurements, take the flange to a machine shop and let them go buck wild. if you cant find anyone local I could whip you do some
Knurled
UltimaDork
3/14/15 9:06 a.m.
What you're asking should be trivial to have made - you just need a ring of metal (I'd go with steel) with one end with whatever diameter OD to fit in the old cup, and whatever ID for the axle to fit into, and a 6xwhatever bolt circle.
Another question. Is there 1/4" extra threads on the hub end? You should be able to just get a 1/4" thick hardened washer to go between the bearing and outer CV. It's on the rear, right? No need to make sure the outer CV is on the steering axis to prevent weird torque steer issues.
This assumes that you really need the 1/4" of spacer, there may be enough reserve plunge travel in the existing setup.
Just throwin' ideas out there.
With the suspension at full droop (since its up in the air) the axle is stretched to the point that I would at a minimum tear a boot at some point. 1/4" leave the axle with the same amount of side to side as the other axle has. I might have enough there to space the axle at the knuckle.
I'm using a 01 rear diff with a 93 axle beam. The 01 van had a wider track, but the 93 axle bolts onto the existing springs. I have the 93 and 01 axle shafts, and trial and error found the ones that would fit the best.
I'll take one of the other shafts to the machine shop I used for the engine and see if they can help me out.
Can you send me a drawing?
jstand
Reader
3/14/15 9:44 a.m.
You should be able to measure the OD, ID, and bolt circle and put that on a simple hand sketch.
To much detail will increase cost and potential for error.
SeanC
New Reader
3/14/15 10:06 a.m.
I may be able to help if you send me a drawing. Though it would take some time from NH.
draw up the plans... and see if you can get a trade school or other similar "training" place to make it for you....???
What are the ID & OD of these?
I would probably be able to knock em out pretty quickly
OD is 134 mm with an ID of 83mm with 6 10mm holes on an 111mm circle.
AL should be fine. I'll take a picture of the axle flange and post it.
44Dwarf
UltraDork
3/14/15 7:49 p.m.
Make sure the axle and flange don't have a locating diameter if you make a spacer you may have to cut in a shoulder on one side and a lip on the other thus need wider stock to start with.
moparman76_69 wrote:
OD is 134 mm with an ID of 83mm with 6 10mm holes on an 111mm circle.
Here's a quick print that should help get it made at a machine shop. Alternatively, I've had good luck with RapidSheetMetal.com. They've got a little quoting tool for Solidworks, but it's estimating $100ea at Qty:2 to get them made out of 5052, but $38ea at Qty:8, both with a 7 day lead time. They're usually between 150% and 200% of mom and pop shops, so that should give you a rough estimate.
![source: imgur.com](http://i.imgur.com/6Popgjk.jpg)
In reply to unevolved:
What program did you use to make that?
SeanC
New Reader
3/14/15 10:04 p.m.
unevolved wrote:
moparman76_69 wrote:
OD is 134 mm with an ID of 83mm with 6 10mm holes on an 111mm circle.
Here's a quick print that should help get it made at a machine shop. Alternatively, I've had good luck with RapidSheetMetal.com. They've got a little quoting tool for Solidworks, but it's estimating $100ea at Qty:2 to get them made out of 5052, but $38ea at Qty:8, both with a 7 day lead time. They're usually between 150% and 200% of mom and pop shops, so that should give you a rough estimate.
If this drawing is all you need made, I should be able to ship one out to you Monday. Pay me shipping and a little for my trouble and it's yours. This would be made out of 1/4" 6061 AL plate. Email me to work out the details if you're interested.
wclark
Reader
3/15/15 6:02 a.m.
44Dwarf wrote:
Make sure the axle and flange don't have a locating diameter if you make a spacer you may have to cut in a shoulder on one side and a lip on the other thus need wider stock to start with.
I think this is important. Most of these joints use a lip on the output flange to center the CV, not the bolts. You would want to reproduce that lip on your spacer unless the one on the flange is tall enough to locate the CV with the spacer installed.
Same idea as with hub centric wheel spacers.
Knurled
UltimaDork
3/15/15 6:44 a.m.
In reply to wclark:
This is why I specified the ID of the cup earlier. The bolts do NOT locate the CV, the flange does. This has to be a three dimensional part with a flange on the CV end.
Here is a link to a machine shop that will do custom parts:
http://www.wehrsmachine.com/about_us/
http://www.wehrsmachine.com/
Good honest WI farmtown racing people
The axle has a .5mm lip at the id. If that's the case the part would need a 1mm lip at the ID and a 1mm recess on the other side for the axle. I'll get out there and take a picture of the axle tomorrow.
You might also be able to take in the two inner joints you aren't going to use and have them cut down into your spacers. All the holes are already there and the one side is already machined, so all you have to do is chuck it into a lathe and cut off the cup part of the one side.
Helpful hint in cases like this:
There are companies all over that make this type of thing every day. Search the 'Net for "waterjetting" or "laser cutting."
Most, like us, offer "walk-in" service and/or will have a Contact via their website. Yeah, an order of one is generally expensive, but if your contact is amenable (and you're willing to wait) a single part can generally get nested into a larger order.
I'd be happy to add our company website if the mods allow.