Head gasket setup to resist overheating damage?

My Samurai needs another head gasket change because it got a bit warm once. I've had the problem enough times now to recognize it quickly. It's an all-aluminum open-deck engine, so it could only be more vulnerable to this problem if the engine were made of cheese. This time it happened because an electrical failure and a carb problem struck at the exact same moment, and the carb problem had me looking at the tach and distracted me from the temperature gauge for a few minutes.

Is there any head gasket setup that's more likely to retain a seal if the engine peeks above normal operating temperature and gets melty? MLS, cutting rings, O-rings, etc? It costs me almost a full LeMons budget every time this happens.

With all aluminum, it's tough due to how much things expand when they get hotter. Plus, you've gotta worry about warping the head too.

Honestly, it might be better to pick a "max safe temperature" and wire up a big red warning light and really loud buzzer that comes on at that point. And try to make the cooling system as beefy and reliable as possible. Assuming electric fan, make it 2 speed with as little overlap in the control system as possible. That way, if one speed fails or a relay fails, you won't lose the fan entirely.

I already have redundant relays on the fan (one for auto mode that goes through a controller and one for always-on mode), it's 1-speed but set to come on fairly early in auto mode. A temperature warning light and buzzer indeed would've prevented this.

Or if you really want to prevent it, wire up a thermal shutdown switch.

MLS would be the first thing to try.

Copper gasket would be the second.

After that, it gets really expensive.

In the Subaru world one of the fixes for 2.5 NA HG issues is to use the MLS gasket from the turbo motors, so I would try MLS.

OK I'll try to find a MLS head gasket for it - unlikely I'll find one locally, but anything that can help is worth a try.

I really need to get a warning system too...a shutdown system on top of it might not be a bad idea. On my Corolla I've set up a 5500rpm limiter on the MS3 that kicks in at 220F to catch my attention if the temperature creeps up on track. On this engine I might want something even lower than that.

Maybe a warning light / buzzer and then a few degrees above that temp, limit to 1500 rpm or something?

220 is too hot?

What is failing, exactly? Is the head cracking, or is the head warping, or are the bolts just losing tension and relaxing the gasket?

If it's the first two, there ain't much you can do about it. If it is the last one, I'm thinking that undercut head bolts/studs would help since they will be less likely to crush and relax the gasket.

Last time the head and block were slightly warped, I'll find out exactly what the damage is this time when the engine comes apart. Probably the same thing, it's burning coolant for sure.

220 is a first guess for a temp warning level...if all is going well an engine that's cooling properly at full power (with a 180F thermostat) probably shouldn't reach such a temperature at the engine coolant outlet, where the temperature sensor is on the 4AGE. I'd rather set it too low than to high. On an engine that warps as easily as the G13A I'd want a warning as early as possible.

Update: Looks like there are no MLS gaskets for the G13-series but there are some for the G16-series. I found a "Tong Hong" brand MLS gasket for the G16 locally, it has Hong in its name so you know it's legit

It's not identical to the G13-series gasket but the mechanic says it should work and is testing one on his own Samurai along with mine.

Pay attention to the surface finish for the mating surfaces, a rough finish destroys gaskets faster during expansion and contraction.