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alfadriver
alfadriver MegaDork
8/4/19 12:46 p.m.

At some point in the life of that engine, the IMRC detection was very much needed, as it's a pretty key part of that making it's emissions target.  I know we looked into a position switch- so there may be on at the opposite end of the shaft.  Or it at least notes if the valve is doing something- without the switch, one can theoretically detect a change in airflow when the valves change position, so it's possible that it's expecting that.  But I stopped working on that truck as soon as the proper Focus' became available for testing.

bluej
bluej UberDork
8/4/19 2:50 p.m.

The imrc system confused me at first. There's the rod w/ the flaps that terminates w/ a bushing at one end, and a sensor/actuator on the other. That actuator has an electrical connection and a vacuum input. Then there's a vac line from the manifold that runs to a solenoid and another vac line from the solenoid to the actuator.  Seems like the solenoid does the controlling via the vacuum, and the actuator translates the vac to the rotary motion, also reporting on position. Not sure why else it would need both vac input and a connector. 

alfadriver
alfadriver MegaDork
8/4/19 4:20 p.m.

In reply to bluej :

The connector is just for position.  It needs to be detected if it fails.  And that set up is still cheaper than an electric stepper motor doing the same thing.

bluej
bluej UberDork
8/5/19 7:53 a.m.

I needed to order a new control solenoid for the IMRC, the one in the truck had both nipples busted off. Luckily they're cheap. Comes tomorrow, and I'll hook it up as stock, but sans the actual flaps in the intake manifold, and see how it does. I REALLY hope i don't have to put the stupid runners back in, but I'm glad I kept them and the rod.

That's kinda nuts that this whole setup is still cheaper than a stepper.

Again, thanks for all your insight Alfa!

alfadriver
alfadriver MegaDork
8/5/19 7:57 a.m.

Looking at the trace, you still have a fuel delivery problem.  MAF and Load both say it knows that the air is flowing, but the fuel is not being delivered to the cylinder.

Not driving it, I can't tell if it's just misfiring  and looking lean or is actually lean.  But the issue spans the areas were the IMRC is open or closed.  While you may be able to clear that fault, that's not the problem.

bluej
bluej UberDork
8/5/19 8:22 a.m.
alfadriver said:

Looking at the trace, you still have a fuel delivery problem.  MAF and Load both say it knows that the air is flowing, but the fuel is not being delivered to the cylinder.

Not driving it, I can't tell if it's just misfiring  and looking lean or is actually lean.  But the issue spans the areas were the IMRC is open or closed.  While you may be able to clear that fault, that's not the problem.

 

hmmmm. sounds like we need some video of it driving. I expected teething, but this is starting to get annoying.

alfadriver
alfadriver MegaDork
8/13/19 12:58 p.m.

The beginning of the drive looked lean on tip ins, but it certainly got a lot better as the end of the trace.  Odd that it's that far off, when measuring air flow directly.  When I think about it, load is wrong- it 2.5/2.3 off....  But that only pulls out spark for what you are doing.  

If it works, it works, but there's not much into changing to MS. 

bluej
bluej UberDork
8/19/19 11:03 a.m.

Alfadriver, just sent you an email through the board.

 

Something happened to my last post. I'm afraid my phone somehow deleted it while it was in my pocket :-/

TGMF
TGMF Reader
8/19/19 11:22 a.m.

Did you loosen, or remove the crank pulley for any reason...even a little?  I belive this engine does not use a keyed crank pulley, nor does the timing chain pully on the crank. The whole mess is kept in time by crank pully tension, using diamond coated washers to enhance friction and keep it from slipping.  As a result, if you loosen the crank pully bolt, the valve timing can change, even grenade the engine. The ignition reluctor wheel is on the crank pully, which has no timing marks on it. 

Theres a pin you put in the block to line up the crank, and a plate for the cams, to lock them in place, then line up the crank pully with a bolt through the pully into the front cover. Finally install crank pully bolt and remove pin/plate. 

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