help me pick parts for my EK civic

Hello,

I have a 1999 EX civic. It currently has a D series engine. I am going to do a B16 swap and have a Quafe to install.

This car will be used for street, Autox, and track days. 

I have yellow konis and around 500 pound spring , stock front sway and a big rear bar.

I need to replace the rear trailing arm bushings. Is the hardrace brand a good choice?

I want the ability to change the front camber. Is swapping out the top wishbones in the front the most acceptable way? I have seen the adjusting allen head bolts loosen before. I want a good set. Which brand is good?

I need an exhaust. My home track is Lime Rock and they have a sound limit of 86 decibels 50 feet from the track edge rule. I am looking for something where their will be no question if my car is quiet enough. either a full exhaust or suggestion on a muffler / resonator.

I am am in a buy once, cry once mood.

Mark

Exhaust, look into an Apexi WS3 or Revell (tanabe), both should keep you under the sound limits, while being OEM+ in sound

Rear trailing arm bushings. I would just get OEM or Spoon bushings. The price is reasonable for either of them. 

There are several options for front camber kit. I have honed on my integra, but on my Civic which is more on a budget and also me wanting to try out some of the cheaper stuff, I went with truhart. You do need to be make sure the adjustment won't slip,, I had them slip at an autocross before, but was able to eyeball it back. I wasn't sure if it was the alignment tech who didnt have them tight enough or like in the case of some skunk2 arms, the paint would cause the slippage. I put nordlock washers on mine and they haven't slipped since

out of curiosity, to keep these cars cool on an HPDE session, what kind of work is needed?  Is a large radiator sufficient in a build like this?  What about brakes?  Are the rears drums, do they offer shoes designed for track duty?  

i don't much about the platform, this example looks clean and like a great build.  

Yes, I would recommend Hardrace rear trailing arm bushings, for a car that will also see street duty. I used them on my DC2 and they worked well (stable, consistent rear end) while still being compliant on the street. For more of a track build, people run sphericals, but I would run rubber on a street car. 

I'm sure OEM or Spoon would be fine as well. Shockingly there isn't much of a difference in price with Spoon vs Hardrace. Both the Spoon and Hardrace are stiffer rubber than OEM, and if you take a look at them, they have an essentially identical design. I don't think you can go wrong with any of the high quality rubber replacements (OEM, Spoon or Hardrace). 

With that said, I would avoid running poly in the rear. If you look at the design of the bushings, they have to move on multiple axes to keep the RTA in contact with the road. Running poly limits movement IMO. I tried poly RTA bushings on my old CRX and it created some very erratic rear end movements, especially on rough/uneven tracks/surfaces. I had better luck and more confidence running rubber. 


The most common method of adjusting front camber is adjustable upper arms. I ran Hardrace arms marked with paint and they never slipped on me. If you're in the mood to spend all the money, the Honed Development kit is pretty nice and appears to be setup to avoid slip, along with adding a caster adjustment feature: 
https://honeddevelopments.com/product/ek-adjustable-front-camber-arm/

I agree with aw614 on exhaust: Apexi WS3 or Revell for a car you'll be spending a lot of time in on the street. On my DC2 I ended up with a DC Sports exhaust for free- it drove me nuts. I tried all manner of silencers to get the drone away- which, I succeeded, but I ended up with a silencer that made the exit smaller than stock, which seemed counter-intuitive. I then spent all the money on the WS3 and it was like having an OEM/OEM+ setup. Not much weight loss- close to stock weight, and not one of the bigger diameter pipes, but I didn't care. I was happy just to have the drone gone. 

In reply to ClearWaterMS :

The 2000 SI civic came with a B16, so the cooling has mostly been figured out by Honda.

The SI also came with rear discs, so it is a bolt on.

I did the scarebird conversion on my Civic, probably should have done the regular rear disc trailing arm swap as I have some issues with the install, but I didn't want to deal with Honda owners and buying bent trailing arms. My EK on an various alignment racks aligns straight even when it was on the worn stock arms and bushings, which is why I ended up keeping my stock drum trailing arms instead. I wish my Integra would align as straight as this beater civic 

I am guessing hardrace bushings got better in quality? A friend put them on his EG hatch for front LCA bushingsand had them go out within a year. And knowing my friend, he was known to tighten everything by the book and at ride height. But on an EK, Honda doesn't sell the bushings separately from the arms so I might bite the bullet and go with hardrace to see...

If I knew about the Revell exhaust for I would have bought that vs a used WS2 I found on marketplace. 

I used a Mugen twin loop on my new '99 SIR,near stock noise level yet out performed all the bolt on options of the day that didn't make your ears bleed.

 I see used ones occasionally.

 That was another car I wish I still owned.

I like the Whiteline trailing arm bushing as far as an OEM+ type upgrade, if you're comfortable with a bearing style that is preferred. 

As for camber adjustment yes I like the sliding top ball joint but done the way PCI does it (bolts on the side) vs the way the rest of the manufacturers (bolts on the top) 

Keeping a B cool is easy make sure it has a radiator, make sure air and water are going through their designated spaces in said radiator. 

Keeping a B quiet while making power... Um 3" with a big muffler in the tunnel? These things move a lot of air for their displacement they like all the airflow on both ends. 

I was looking thru my spare parts and I founf a set of 4 koni yellows/ground control struts.

The front springs are 650 lbs and the rear are 800. I remember those were popular rates for ITA in the day.

The Konis were revalved by Truechoice. I belive they no longer exist.

One of the shocks are blown. Is anyone revalving Konis yellows or what would be a suitable  replacement?