I have a 2004 Venture that I need running ASAP. I think what happened is it was left with the key in the ACC position and killed the battery flat dead for a couple weeks. I went to Jump start it and it doesn't even try. I just get the battery light flashing with the security light blinking. The red lights on the cowl and the radio both go out.
It is a Passkey 3. I have tried the 3x 10 minute relearn procedure and it will never clear out the security light. Tried with both of the keys I have and let it run a long time and would never not blink the security light . Bluetooth dongle and Torque app don't give any codes. I had a locksmith stop by for another project and it wasn't sending a signal from the exciter module based on a detector he placed near the ignition switch. I picked up a couple excitors from the pick and pull but I don't know if I need to have them programmed or what the deal is because nothing acts anything any different.
I have really had my fill because it isn't worth anything but is wasting much more time than it should.
What is the best way to defeat or diagnose and repair this piece of E36 M3.?
Have you charged the vehicle battery and made sure it's full voltage and not failed from sitting flat for a few weeks? A low battery can present all sort of symptoms and leave you chasing your tail when all that's needed is a battery. Jump starting usually doesn't work with a modern car when the battery is totally dead.
In reply to dculberson :
Battery has been fully charged and sitting on a trickle charger for all testing. It seems to not have been hurt by being left for dead and should be fully charged.
The van will albeit very briefly attempt to start when jumping terminals at the starter, but then quickly shuts off.
This van does have the feature where it(when working) will crank the engine until it starts when bumping it into the start position.
The starter should crank as long as you have it triggered at the starter. It should crank but not start because GM security is stupid.
You have a battery, starter or cable problem.
In reply to Streetwiseguy :
That is what I thought, I have cleaned all the connections and whatnot...I'll be damned if I can figure it out, and I figured crossing the terminals at the starter would overcome any cable issues and let it start if all else was well.. but that doesn't work either.. It cranks just fine that way.
Ok, if it cranks that way, starter is ok.
Check every fuse in the vehicle. Scan for codes and see if that sends you in the right direction
If it cranks but doesn't start it's not a key issue.
There are two separate procedures for coding a GM key. The 3- 10 minute coding is getting a new key coded to start a car.
If your trying to create a copy of your original key that's a separate procedure.
If you mix the two procedures it is possible ( but not likely) to create two none functioning keys
It doesn't crank using the ignition switch.
I have tried the 3-10 procedure with both keys I have on hand which both worked fine previously and neither will work now.
Last time I scanned I didn't get any codes. I'll try again tomorrow.
ronholm said:
It doesn't crank using the ignition switch.
I have tried the 3-10 procedure with both keys I have on hand which both worked fine previously and neither will work now.
Last time I scanned I didn't get any codes. I'll try again tomorrow
Try the 3-10 again but make sure you are doing it correctly.
First make sure you are using a chipped key and not a blank with no chip used for opening the doors only.
Turn the ignition to the "on" position. The security light should be on
When the security light goes out (about 10 minutes) turn key off and the back to "on" position
Do this 3 times.
IF you bump the ignition to the start position at anytime you will have to start over.
Very important: The security light going out is telling you that you are coding the key. The 10 minute time is approximate.
When done with the three times you may have to cycle the key a few times before it will start.
In reply to rustybugkiller :
I appreciate the procedure but that isn't it, and why i am so frustrated with it. I have opened a window to make sure the door didn't open or anything and it simply refuses to turn the light out ever. I set a timer for 10 minutes and watched it another 5 minutes at least several times and the light always remains flashing along with the battery indicator, which seems like normal operation when not running.
If the light is flashing, you have a problem not related to the key.
I worked as a Repo agent and did I don't know how many of these cars I programmed but I NEVER had the security light flash. It should be constant
Opening the door will not disrupt the program.
Edit: are you sure the battery is 100%
My father had a similar issue with a Buick Rendezvous, where the key wouldn't program. He ended up buying a BCM and having it programmed to solve the problem.
In reply to No Time :
I wonder many modules would I have to grab from a junkyard van to just swap them in and not have to program anything?
In reply to ronholm :
Worst case: the ECU, the BCM, the ignition keys and cylinder. More likely: the BCM, the keys and the cylinder.
I'm assuming the resistor bypass trick doesn't work on something this late?
