Help: Pin to Nut/Bolt

Hive, I haven't had wipers in a couple months because the connection from the wiper motor to the linkage got worn and fell apart. To try to get it to work again, I want to replace the pin with a nut/ bolt.

I'm having trouble getting the old pin out.. I've been soaking it in WD40, but it still doesn't move when I hit it with a hammer. It is a pin and not welded in, right? I'm open to all manner of suggestions to make this work again. It originally had a little plastic ball/snap ring holding the linkage on..

Front:

Back:

It's swaged in. Good luck.

When the plastic socket fell off of one of my VW's linkages, I removed the swaged in ball with a drill press, then welded a male threaded rod-end from Sears Hardware to the linkage and bolted it to the hole. Worked great.

That's not coming out, drill and tap the end for a screw and fender washer.

Maybe drill a small hole across its end for a cotter pin, and awasher. I did as much on my crappy Dodge. I'll link once I am at my real computer.

Grind off the swaged side and cut off the stud side, then knock out the remainder, or drill it. That's what I'd try anyway.

yup.. just grind/drill the backside of the stud off, then pound the main part out.. or cut the stud off flush with the arm, then pound the remaining part out.. whichever is easier..

Ensure whatever you put in there is hard as hell. Normally it's the mating hole that gets elongated or egg shaped because the pin is Rhc 38 or so.

Dan

Did you check to see if the replacement plastic bushing is available ?

I had the same issue with my dodge van. Help or Dorman had a kit with a bunch of different wiper bushings. It was cheap, less than 10 bucks if i remember correctly and now I have spares, not just for the dodge, but for cars I may never own.

classicJackets wrote: Hive, I haven't had wipers in a couple months because the connection from the wiper motor to the linkage got worn and fell apart. To try to get it to work again, I want to replace the pin with a nut/ bolt. I'm having trouble getting the old pin out.. I've been soaking it in WD40, but it still doesn't move when I hit it with a hammer. It is a pin and not welded in, right? I'm open to all manner of suggestions to make this work again. It originally had a little plastic ball/snap ring holding the linkage on.. Front:

drill center of this, then use tap, then small bolt.

If you fail.... grind off back, then drill out stud

Replacing this pin with a nut and bolt won't work. You will not be able to tighten it down as it will lock the linkage up. If you leave it loose enough to function it will wear out the softer bolt in very short order, plus you would be using threads as a bearing surface which is a terrible idea for many reasons.

If you found a hardened shoulder bolt the correct length and welded it in place of that pin you would be on the right track.

Any reason why you are not just fixing it with the correct parts? Circlips are not that rare and if it is a bushing you are missing you can do a lot with a drill and file to substitute for a lathe to make a bushing.

At a minimum, you are going to need a shoulder bolt to do the job. The existing part was squished in much like a rivet and aint gonna come out without a fight. Drill

Thanks for the responses everyone. Today I learned about Swaging, so that's fun.

NOHOME wrote: Any reason why you are not just fixing it with the correct parts? Circlips are not that rare and if it is a bushing you are missing you can do a lot with a drill and file to substitute for a lathe to make a bushing. At a minimum, you are going to need a shoulder bolt to do the job. The existing part was squished in much like a rivet and aint gonna come out without a fight. Drill

No, honestly no good reason for ont replacing it correctly, other than I didn't even consider that as a possibility. How dumb is that? I'll start checking at AutoZone/online in the next few days and do it the more correct way. Luckily Rain-X works pretty dang well, and I'm used to it by now.

https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/build-projects-and-project-cars/how-to-build-a-build-thread-cummins-content/97185/page3/ I think the people suggesting you fix it properly are correct, but here's another option. Not responsible for results.