help with a broken bolt

'afternoon guys and gals. I've been summoned to pick up where another mechanic left off. This other guy removed the starter on a 200? F-150 and broke 2 of the three bolts off and is now too busy to fix his mistake. That's where I come in. One of the bolts I think I can get with enough PB Blaster and heat but the top bolt is shrouded by the block on 3 sides. I can't get vice-grips or a pipe wrench on it. So, I am wondering if there is a tool you know of that would slip over the broken bolt and grab it with enough nuts to allow me to back it out (again, with PB and heat) like stud extractor on steroids?? Barring any wisdom from you folks here's what I'm going to try: Heat the bell-housing with a MAP torch. When the BH is nice and hot, apply ice directly to the stud to shrink it down. Then start the careful process of removing it. I did this once before and it worked but I don't know if that was just a fluke or not. Any suggestions?

Drill a hole in the end of the stud and use a stud extractor? Can yo grind the stud into a shape that you can grab?

When heating and cooling, I usually use a wet rag instead of ice for cooling things down quickly since it's easier to wrap around and 1 change of state will usually do it.

can you weld a nut on to it?

my buddy took a dremel ziz-wheel and cut a chunk out of the head, then took a chizel and placed it in the missing chunk and hammered the crap out of it until it broke loose

There's a stud extractor which grabs the outside with rollers. KD Tools makes them, among others.

These work well if there's an inch or so sticking out. If it's broken off real short but there's enough to grab firmly with Vise Grips start the way you mentioned: Vise Grips, PB and the cherry red wrench.

Of course, if that doesn't do it, the only thing left is to drill it out and clean the threads with a tap. Can you get a 90 degree drill in there?

I've had good luck with these, as long as there is any of it portruding. Tap with a hammer so they get a bite, and use a socket/breaker bar to bust loose.

Can you get at it to drill with LEFT hand drill bits? If so try the heat and quench bit (I have used dry ice before. You can get it at the grocery store.) then center punch the bolt shank and use GOOD drill bits. Usualy the drill bit will grab the shank and back it right out. If not try the easy out bit. Bear in mind when you break (not if you break) the easy out you just screwed the pooch. Or just put it back together with only two bolts . Old SBC's only had two bolts. They run for ever and the geneal knows how to do everything, just look at their recent successes.

mw wrote: Drill a hole in the end of the stud and use a stud extractor? Can yo grind the stud into a shape that you can grab? When heating and cooling, I usually use a wet rag instead of ice for cooling things down quickly since it's easier to wrap around and 1 change of state will usually do it.

It looks like it'll be REALLY, REALLY hard to drill into it since the motor mount and exhaust mani are pretty close. Besides that, I'm afraid an easy-out will break since the bolt is only about 7/16" diameter.

Thanks for the input guys. I was thinking about a stud extractor and I'll try that since there is, maybe 3/4" sticking out. Tyler, where did you find that? I have something similar for stripped lug nuts and wondered if they made anything like that for bolts/studs. I think getting a drill in there (even with 90* adapter) would be as unlikely has getting a GRM guy to recommend a car besides a miata. I like the idea of welding a nut onto it, but don't have a welder (may be a great opportunity to buy one ) I'll let you guys know what I do and what worked.

I have a set of the sockets that Tyler showed. I believe that I got mine at Sears.

...and then go bitch slap the original mechanic.

914Driver wrote: ...and then go bitch slap the original mechanic.

I plan on it. It's funny actually. I answered an ad on CL for a mechanic to do some light work for them. By the time I replied they found someone else. Well, they called me a few weeks later and asked if I'd do brakes on the husbands minivan. I graciously accepted and gave them a fair price. He paid me 40% more than I asked and proceded to tell me about the previous hack (not the dude who screwed the Ford over). So I knew they were giving me little work to sort of interview my work. Then a bigger job, now I'm fixing others guys screw ups and getting a CHERRY 89 firebird pace car back on the road. This is the one with the grand nat motor. After I get it on the road, I'm sure I'll have to give it a road test or 12

Ya know, the whole CL thing is great. There are so many hacks out there looking to make a buck. Then they screw it up and then the real technicians get a call later.