So I am trying to get my 4.6L powered challenge car running and am a bit overwhelmed. The donor is a 2010 Crown Vic. I have hooked up things as I THOUGHT I had taken them apart but can't get anything out of it. No starter activation. Nothing but power to the OBD port. I am probably only in need a small handful of wires but this thing has 4 wiring harnesses and it is all giving my headache. Thanks in advance.
Have you cut anything?
How does the keypass or whatever system work in these?
Do you have a good overall wiring diagram with labeled key components?
Do these have an inertia system? What does it need from tank sensors to allow anything to happen?
For the 360 I worked through the harness literally wire by wire. This should be easier at this stage for you because you are just trying to plug everything in.
Don't cut anything until you get it running again. If you need to pull more stuff from the body just set it on the ground.
I hate wiring with a passion but still Wish I could come help.
Oh I just had a thought does the "park" position come from the transmission or the column? Most autos won't start unless in park. You need to ensure that all of that is still there unless the tune absolutely removes it.. and if it does do you have the clutch input if required?
Some basics before you rip all of your hair out.
When you connect the negative terminal of the battery, is it connected to engine ground AND chassis ground?
A lot of things in that era Ford grounded to the body. The body is electrically isolated from the frame, and the frame is electrically isolated from the engine. How are you handling the old grounds that had attached to the body?
Ford have generally had a ground cable setup that specifically grounded to the engine and to the body, and rarely if ever grounded to the frame. If you moved those body-attached grounds to the frame... they may not be grounded.
Some of the rear harness was cut to get it out of the car. I have the factory manuals and the only thing in the rear that is engine related I'd a fuel pump and associated sensors. I hope it will turn over without that. I think that the starter might be toast from some of my own poorly thought out testing. It won't engage with the flywheel, just spin when jumping it. I have a spare from the other car to test so that might be that.
I found the wire that is supposed to be grounded for neutral and park and grounded it. I hear the relay kick now so something else is hanging me up at the moment.
In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :
That is good advice, thanks.
My first thought when I was being to spiral was wondering if I had room for a microsquirt in my budget.
I have it successfully hot wired but only for cranking. I still can't get it to crank from the key or get the coils to fire. It likely is an immobilizer issue but am failing to track it down.
The police package cars do not have the immobilizer PATS system. Something else is happening
I am worried that I fried the PCM. I had a short in the starter circuit that passed through the computer and I cannot get anything out of the OBD port and it is properly powered and grounded.
Time for a Microsquirt.
singleslammer said:I am worried that I fried the PCM. I had a short in the starter circuit that passed through the computer and I cannot get anything out of the OBD port and it is properly powered and grounded.
Time for a Microsquirt.
By properly powered and grounded, check the voltage drop between PCM power (at the connector, backprobe with a "nail", sweing needles work well in a pinch) and battery positive, PCM ground (backprobe at connector, etc) and battery negative. Should have a tenth of a volt or so, preferably less, but that isn't the world we live in. Definitely well under a volt.
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