Home built,bike engined autox toy

kevlarcorolla wrote: Go to turbo-bike.net

264 RWHP. On a streetbike.

There's a guy on the R1 forum thats pushing 12lbs into the stock engine including the stock cr on E85 no intercooler and drag races it too death.Still going strong. I'm going to feed mine 8lbs,I'm nervous the combo of nearly a hundred extra hp,the added weight and 2 wide sticky tires will lead to clutch problems-only one way to find out.

In reply to kevlarcorolla:

^ billet clutch basket

Have you had the transmission gears under cut yet? Basicly it cuts the "dogs" on the grears so theres a 2deg slope so they lock in and are less likley to pop out of mesh. 2nd gear has a hardest life of all in bike trans. Contact Paul Gast @ Fast by Gast or Rick Stanton at Harry's machined Part.

Harry's Machined Parts. (508) 366-1455 Rte 9 W Northborough, MA 01532 42.3197 -71.6447

kevlarcorolla wrote: Whats the goals/use for the car?.Are you going to use round tube? I hate the look of a sqaure tube chassis but they are much easier to fab,locostusa.com is full of differing ways to build.If I was to build an autox only car I'd consider an aluminum monoque with mid engine chain drive,possible to get that into the 600lb range. My car is to be for track days as well so the the roll over/side impact protection is overkill for autox. Btw I don't think I'd scale down the miata suspension,keep the track width but increase the lenght of the arms.The are short in the miata for packaging,no need for that foolishness in a home built imo. The R1 is a great choice for BEC due to the minimal oiling problems,I run a simple baffle plate and about an additional cup of oil without any problems.Don't try that with a 'busa.....busa go boom right away. If you want more power the R1 loves boost,you can boost the stock carbs with great success,I built a carb'd and turbo'd 4ag using the yamaha carbs for the corolla and it worked great.Go to turbo-bike.net or google R1 turbo for the MXC site in sweden along with the turbo trhead on the r1 forums for info. A run in the corolla,1st event of the year and friggin cold on R888's(which suck btw)

I'll be going round stock. I've built a couple roll cages so I'm pretty comfortable with it and I also have access to a tubing notcher, which makes life easier.

The car will pull duty for hillclimbs and autox so I have to build the cage to hillclimb specs, which includes a full hoop for rollovers. I might frame things to make it easier to hang a simply fiberglass body on the car as well for road course work.

In reply to kevlarcorolla:

That Corolla sounds a lot like the Integra I'm driving this season.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5zEw7PxlSRw&feature=share

In reply to DaveEstey: Sounds like a good plan,looking forward to seeing it progress.I'd like to see what you do for a body,I did the panels on the inside to make it easy but makes it quite draggy.I'd like to build something like a dsr body down the road but thats a huge commitment.

Btw the integra looks pretty quick.

The Integra was originally built for drag racing. It's 417hp at the front wheels. A handful to say the least.

I'm excited to start the new build now. I need to place and order for my tubing and order some tools to shape the sheet metal. I want to eventually have a full body for the car but ill do the work piecemeal and keep the car naked until I have it all ready.

FWIW, I can pop out new bodies from my LeGrand molds for about $1500 + shipping. That's about as cheap as you'll find new, very nice bodies for.

Per

Amazing build. Mad props. When I finish grad school I want to try something similar. I was thinking of building a Fiesta Wagon with a solid rear axle, a front mounted Honda Gullwing engine driving the rear wheels and then making everything between the front seats and the tail gate a giant ground effects tunnel.

Consider me inspired!

In reply to Per Schroeder:

If you put a nice body on a hillclimb car you're virtually guaranteed to find a tree. Nature hates shiny race cars.

Another question! What did you use for pedals? And what spicer shaft did you use?

Ordering a new tube bender next week.

Sorry I didn't see this earlier Dave,for pedals I used a modified miata throttle set-up,a southwestspeed(best pricing)floormounted dual master adjustable brake bias pedal set and for the clutch I used a brand new clutch lever for a dirt bike($17 for a decent one).I mounted the lever to a post and it pushes sideways like on the handlebar of the bike,felt a little goofy at 1st but it takes about 10 seconds to get used to it and works great.(my R1 is a cable clutch) For the driveshaft adapter go to hawk machine,they make the adapter that replaces the countershaft sprocket and accepts a spicer pto.Hawk has the specific pto needed,they are available in different sizes to work with whatever your doing for a driveshaft.In my case I used a miata halfshaft for a driveshaft which happens to be a touch under 7/8",a little shim stock and its a perfect fit.

I'm picking up a pair of turbos(only using 1-I'm not THAT crazy) at the event this sunday,next year is going to be interesting.

Great work. You put a good twist on the locost. Build time was insane. The bender you used to do the front section is a nice machine. All that from one stick is amazing. Great job. I have built a couple of 2 seaters using Busa motors. Never had oiling issues with them. We do use the flat pans and run a oil bypass instead of the block offs. Built a single seat with a R1 motor. It lasted 3 weeks before the guy shattered second gear

You slide that thing though cones very very nicely. Great thread- Very smart design, yada yada yada, whats not to like? Two thumbs up, WAY UP!! Thanks for posting.

Needs more cowbell . . . I mean traction.

Lots of fun!

The event today went pretty well considering it was just above freezing,cloudy AND windy,I dropped the pressures down and the grip was far better than I was expecting(maybe the spring,alignment and wing changes actually worked?).My 1st run set the event FTD by about 3 seconds,only made 2 runs(didn't see the time for the 2nd run so no idea if I went faster) before it started raining pretty hard.I packed up and left after that,way too cold to get soaked to the skin and drive an open cockpit car with no windsheild.My co-driver had a blast in it,he did the megasquirt install so it was good to see him get some enjoyment out of it as well-just too bad he only got 3 runs in it. PIcked up a nice td04-15t to install over the winter,should be really quick next year.I need to do something about the driveshaft angle as its eating cv boosts like nothing-blew apart a new one with just 3 runs(mine and co-drivers).The joint itself seems good but surprisingly the boot rips itself apart.I think I'll more the diff back and give it a twist relative to the chassis centerline to lessen the angle of the shaft.That way all 3 shafts will absorb the angle that the 1 has to deal with currently.

Solo season is over so I have to start my monster geo ice race project this week,give me a month and I'll show how thats going.

Btw thanks for all the kind words guys,I didn't build it to show off etc but it sure feels good to know others approve.

That's a very interesting car. How much suspension design did you do on the uprights? I imagine you're seriously limited in what you can do with the Miata spindles already defining your outer points.

I was going to ask about the driveshaft angle, but it sounds like it's already rearing its ugly head. It sounds like moving to a chain-driven diff would be too much work at this point.

I didn't do any design on the uprights,mazda did that part. Just used those locations for wishbone to come up with the inner pivots.Yes,converting to chain driven diff is pretty much out of the question as it would mean redoing damn near everything involved with powering/driving the car.I didn't expect to have trouble with the boots themselves,was much more concerned about the actual joint failing but thats been great considering the amount of dirt and crap that they've endured as a result of the boost failures.

F the boots just make a sheild to deflect the big dirt clumps and spray the joints down with lube at the end of the day. (warm joint cooler lube will be drawn in to the joint)

Wife forester is going on 9 years with a riped inner boot that the oil pan drip leaks on....new shaft is cheap yes but that would meen a crap load of while i'm in that far work i'd rather not do and now its got 220,000 miles on it i'm not doing it unless it starts to click or shake..

Love this thread! Thanks Kevlar, you have a nice build there. Next time I'm in Ontario I'd love to check it out your projects.

surfpac wrote: Love this thread! Thanks Kevlar, you have a nice build there. Next time I'm in Ontario I'd love to check it out your projects.

Thanks,where are you located normally?.