Hopefully my new car

So I am getting this for free. I just need to find some where to work on it but I think I have found somewhere.

Also side question, I can get a TR6 engine. How hard would it be to put that engine in? And do I need a stronger diff?

How big a windshield do I need to be road legal?

Awesome!

Which leads me to my next point, we are a silly kind of people.

why do you need a windshield to be road legal? Do you have safety inspections? If not, screw it! Le Mans Screen FTW.

Maroon92 wrote: why do you need a windshield to be road legal? Do you have safety inspections? If not, screw it! Le Mans Screen FTW.

+1. I love places that don't have inspection. Wisconsin hasn't figured out that I have no emissions equipment in my van (previous owner, not my doing), and Mass has to deal with it! muahahaha!

I'm pretty certain WA State doesn't even require a windshield. They do require a wiper though.

I am not sure if Alabama does or not. I was kinda assuming.

So the car has four Minilite style wheels and two other aluminum wheels which I haven't identified. It has a 1296 engine even though it is a Mark II. I can also take a TR6 engine and transmission if I want to use it with the car. And a welded diff.

As far as rust it is too bad except where the battery had been mounted (behind the passenger seat area) and around the back of the trunk.

Dooo it all! Spitfire/GT6 diffs are all dicey, barely strong enough to handle stock power levels. There are some continuing threads out there about using R160 diffs (already been done, issue is retaining swing axles). A TR-6 will fit (same block is used in GT6), need to fiddle the oil pan to clear the steering rack, and hood (bonnet) needs a power bulge. Can probably sell the good Spitfire hood and acquire a GT6 hood. Strongly advise getting the beefier GT6 suspension bits, which essentially bolt on. Looks like a nice find, I'm glad I didn't see it first, I'm trying to cut back from my current collection of 6.

Oh yeah BTW, the whole windshield assy bolts in, shouldn't be a problem finding one if needed.

Carter

Johnboyjjb wrote: I'm pretty certain WA State doesn't even require a windshield. They do require a wiper though.

NYS is the same.

erohslc wrote: Dooo it all! Spitfire/GT6 diffs are *all* dicey, barely strong enough to handle stock power levels. There are some continuing threads out there about using R160 diffs (already been done, issue is retaining swing axles). A TR-6 will fit (same block is used in GT6), need to fiddle the oil pan to clear the steering rack, and hood (bonnet) needs a power bulge. Can probably sell the good Spitfire hood and acquire a GT6 hood. *Strongly* advise getting the beefier GT6 suspension bits, which essentially bolt on. Looks like a nice find, I'm glad I didn't see it first, I'm trying to cut back from my current collection of 6. Oh yeah BTW, the whole windshield assy bolts in, shouldn't be a problem finding one if needed. Carter

The hood on it isn't exactly good. It is bent in all kinds of ways. The GT6 bits are they all beefier or is it just certain ones. I really don't want to add a windshield back. I am trying to do this for challenge money. I will have to go looking for the diff swap threads.

I found this thread on GRM. Looks like a lot of fabricating in my future.

http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/miata-rear-end-in-spitfire/34518/page1/

Turns out that the R160 from a 240Z will handle swing axle side loads. A bolt through the center of the stub axle attaches to an internal thrust button. And the stub axles have U-Joint flanges. Trick is to find one for cheap. Sometimes folks will 'upgrade' to CV joints, and sell off the diffs or just the stub axles.Check Z forums or eBay. If you don't want to be fancy, and just want to spend challenge money:

1) Weld transverse leaf spring mounting pad directly to the top of the R160 Diff. It worked fine in New Zealand.

2) Fab a simple 1/4" steel rear diff plate, weld on a pair of mounting eyes for the Spit chassis rear diff mounts. Castings look sexy, but both do the same job.

3) Fab a simple steel plate front diff mount.

No frame cutting required.

Carter

In reply to 93EXCivic: If the hood is just bent sheet metal and not rusted away, it's still worth someting. Any accident crunches a Spitfire hood, and they'll never make any new ones again, you do the math. But nothing wrong with putting a tasteful hood scoop to clear the front of the 6 cylinder rocker cover. The GT6 front uprights feature bigger bearings and brakes, and the springs and shocks are sized for extra weight. Subframes on each side carry the front suspension and also carry the front motor mounts, they bolt to the chassis rails. I can't remember if the GT6 version is different. ISTR sway bar is bigger. GT6 rear brakes are bigger. All the bits are bolt-ons. If you find a GT6 parts car, snag the Master brake and clutch cylinders and pedal assemblies. Bet you can score a Spitfire windshield assy for under $50.

WWW.teglerizer.com did an excellant job of making a Spit 6 & documented it thoroughly

Uh, before you start with a bunch of mods, you may want to check the history of the car. If it's an old racer, it will be worth a lot more if you keep it that way (a vintage racer, not it's current state), and you can get a lot of info on the CM board.

Otherwise, have a great time with your plans!! Great find!

alfadriver wrote: Uh, before you start with a bunch of mods, you may want to check the history of the car. If it's an old racer, it will be worth a lot more if you keep it that way (a vintage racer, not it's current state), and you can get a lot of info on the CM board. Otherwise, have a great time with your plans!! Great find!

I will check with the local British club.

erohslc wrote: In reply to 93EXCivic: If the hood is just bent sheet metal and not rusted away, it's still worth someting. Any accident crunches a Spitfire hood, and they'll never make any new ones again, you do the math. But nothing wrong with putting a tasteful hood scoop to clear the front of the 6 cylinder rocker cover. The GT6 front uprights feature bigger bearings and brakes, and the springs and shocks are sized for extra weight. Subframes on each side carry the front suspension and also carry the front motor mounts, they bolt to the chassis rails. I can't remember if the GT6 version is different. ISTR sway bar is bigger. GT6 rear brakes are bigger. All the bits are bolt-ons. If you find a GT6 parts car, snag the Master brake and clutch cylinders and pedal assemblies. Bet you can score a Spitfire windshield assy for under $50.

I am going to search for a GT6 parts car then. The pedals in the car may not be stock. I kinda like the le mans screen look. Also with the hood, my idea was velocity stacks kinda poking up thru the hood. But if I find a GT6 parts car, I will probably use the GT6 hood.

Also found out from the body code that the car is a Mark I.

erohslc wrote: Turns out that the R160 from a 240Z *will* handle swing axle side loads. A bolt through the center of the stub axle attaches to an internal thrust button. And the stub axles have U-Joint flanges. Trick is to find one for cheap. Sometimes folks will 'upgrade' to CV joints, and sell off the diffs or just the stub axles.Check Z forums or eBay. If you don't want to be fancy, and just want to spend challenge money: 1) Weld transverse leaf spring mounting pad directly to the top of the R160 Diff. It worked fine in New Zealand. 2) Fab a simple 1/4" steel rear diff plate, weld on a pair of mounting eyes for the Spit chassis rear diff mounts. Castings look sexy, but both do the same job. 3) Fab a simple steel plate front diff mount. No frame cutting required. Carter

That could be something. Is it only the 240Z and none of the other Zs?

There are some really nice Spits in NABMS. They meet monthly at Greenbrier BBQ. Also a good number of TR6's in town. I think there are as many Triumphs as MGs around here.

If you want the scoop on who has a stash of parts locally I've know the guy to call. I'll PM you.

In reply to T.J.:

Thanks for the email. I will talk to him once I get the car moved to where I can work on it.

A 66 GT6 should work for a parts source correct. I found someone parting one. I am going to ask them about front uprights, front and rear brakes, brake master cylinder, clutch cylinders.

Didn't realize till now that we met yesterday. NABMS does have a quite a few spit owners as members. Also has members that used to race years ago and might be good to talk to about history. Also forgot to mention that the local race clubs might also be able to shed some light, some go back a ways in racing. TAC & TVR(SCCA) are the local clubs. Maybe even the AL region SCCA (Birmingham).
Might not want to use the welded diff on the street though. One of the members of NABMS races a bugeye in vintage class and has a welded diff. That car is a bugger to drive except in anger.

In reply to wlkelley3:

Providing the car doesn't have major history I am planning on the 240Z diff swap. I should ask on the TAC forum I forgot about that one. Your Opel was really clean by the way.