How to check if over/under sprung or over/under damped

So I have a set of bilstein coilovers with progressive springs, as a learning exercise and to achieve more camber and overall stiffer linear springs all around I decide to try and convert to a linear spring with solid adjustable top mounts. I've learnt lots and made some mistakes along the way. I'm at the point now where I can test drive it soon, ride height and alignment will be all wrong but I just want to check these spring rates work first. 

To give some background I did some guesstimating tied in with some man maths with a little real maths and opted for springs that were around 75 pounds stiffer in a linear form compared to the second rate of the bilstein progressive springs. How do I accurately road test this spring rate works well and the dampers can cope with this spring? What things am I looking for precisely to report a success, or different rates required or call the exercise a failure and move on?

Do you know what the original spring rates were? As a rule of thumb dampers can usually take up to a 15% change in spring rate without adverse handling effects. So if the springs were 500lb/in+ top rate you should be fine.

An underdamped car will feel bouncy and will "get air" more easily, an overdamped car will feel hard and slower to react. I would say you should try going over a single bump leading to a flat road, if the car oscillates 2 or more times after hitting the bump, you're underdamped.  Overdamping is harder to test for with the butt dyno, one thing you may notice is that if you come off the brakes suddenly in a straight line the nose may be slow to return to level. Cars with too much rebound damping will also jack-down in slaloms.

Jump on the bumper really quickly and see how many oscillations it takes to stop moving. Repeat on the front bumper. The damping ratio is 1/bounces. So if it bounces 1.5 times, your damping ratio for that axle is 1/1.5=0.7. (link)

Very much easier said than done on some cars, haha. 

Thanks, some good points to look for. Yeah I calculated the 2nd rate of the progressive springs at ~385lb/in so I opted for 450lb/in linear springs. The nature of the dampers (static bump/rebound so non adjustable) are they're on the softer side for bump and quite stiff for rebound.

 For racing I always start too hard and if the car is skittering  and then I   Try softer. But if it can actually go over the bumps without tires losing contact then  springs are done and shocks come next. Followed by swaybars. 

Honestly I'd get the ride height and alignment right first, or at least close. Then if the car does something weird you won't have to guess if it's because the alignment is wonky or the suspension is bottoming/topping out or something else easily fixable.

If I had to guess I'd say that setup will be not perfect but fine.

Yeah it was just for road testing, which went okay, seemed stiffer in turns, quite jarry at very low speeds but over 20mph it felt similar to the progressive setup but just all around stiffer so now I'm happy with that I'll get the ride heights sorted and get the alignment sorted and then track test it. On the old setup I ran all sway bars on full hard, I'll probably leave them at full soft now and ramp up throughout the day.