Even though our 1965 Mustang vintage race car build is based on a base, six-cylinder car, we’re still working from the Shelby playbook.
Original Shelby Mustangs used a 9-inch Ford rear end fitted with a Detroit Locker–a ratchet-style, limited-slip differential. Rear brakes were enlarg…
as of 2:21pm, link not working
link is broken, at the moment
$2400 is pretty reasonable as these things go.
The used axle for the Datsun cost me $1500 and that was only because I sold some of the parts I wasn't going to use.
Links are working now.
I did a 9" Ford build with a mixed bag of salvage/used and new parts. The used pieces were axle housing and OEM 31 spline shafts for $200 plus powder coat at $75 and center section with Auburn diff and 3.70:1 gears for $700. New bearings, seals, Daytona pinion support, and heavy duty spring perches plus assembly for $700. I used a modified Wilwood rear disk brake kit for $1100 and a new 1350 spec rear yoke and straps for $200 and new 3" ARP studs so not much less then an entirely new unit as Tim noted above. I did resell the stock rear ended for $300. That also doesn't include my time and effort finding, transporting back and forth and nailing down multiple suppliers. Plus mine is an OEM housing and axles-good or bad depending upon your perspective. If I had been planning on racing I would have done exactly as Tim did.
In reply to wawazat :
My path was similar; bought another Datsun with larger Diff for $1000, sold the car (had a title) and other parts for $800, then spent $1300 on the LSD 3rd member. Net cost was $1500. It was just enough savings to be worth it.
These days I would just buy a complete unit.
I probably have $2500 in mine as it sits. Shoulda went with a Speedway (not Speedway Motors) full floater, which was $1500 for everything but the pumpkin.
I'll be interested in seeing if you're happy with the rear drums long term. I ran rear drums on my Camaro for a bit and at Sandia Speedway and Arroyo Seco Raceway they were fine although I could feel the brake balance change as they got hot and faded. however, at PPIR where I was hauling down from about 150 MPH to 30 MPH coming off the banking and into the infield, they faded dramatically to the point where I was backing up braking points by several car lengths. The pedal never got soft they just stopped working. When I pulled them apart after they cooled off the drums were a really pretty blue color.
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