Dusting off the old Chumpcar, found out why it was losing water. The hard pipe from the water pump to the thermostat housing was leaking. Found the bottom bolt on the thermo housing finger tight, and the top cracked out of block.
I stole this picture off the net, but the boss is cracked in the same way. Our engine is a lot cleaner.
Can I bolt the housing back up (with a new thermostat and o-ring) and tig / tack weld it to the block?

NOHOME
PowerDork
1/4/16 12:35 p.m.
TIG. Then re-tap. Expensive job to farm out. Hard to do at home unless you live in a machine shop.
Is there enough meat in the head to drill deeper and tap uncharted territory?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CJ42scaWFnw
Might be an easier and simpler way?
NOHOME wrote:
TIG. Then re-tap. Expensive job to farm out. Hard to do at home unless you live in a machine shop.
Is there enough meat in the head to drill deeper and tap uncharted territory?
I think I'd be in danger of hitting a water jacket, plus I'm not putting this engine back in if I have to pull it. I agree this is the 'right' way to fix it.
Apexcarver wrote:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CJ42scaWFnw
Might be an easier and simpler way?
This looks crapcan-worthy. If I do it, I'll post up my results. Torque spec is 9lb-ft. It is really just to locate the hard pipe to the water pump, which has an o-ring and otherwise just plugs in. I need to look again and see if the hard pipe is aluminum...maybe I can just tig that onto the thermo housing. Failing that, I can cut off the end and crimp a flare and just put a hose on the hardpipe and use an aftermarket thermo housing (I already have one.)
Gotta think crapcan racing here. :)
If I wanted to get creative without welding I would grind off the stud flat. Drill 1/2" into the block (hopefully there is meat). Tap the hole to a similar thread size. Buy a piece of threaded rod and cut to an appropriate size for a stud. Use JB weld, epoxy, shellac of choice and permanently set the stud. viola! you have a new stud.
In reply to oldeskewltoy:
Alumaloy, now that's a fun name to say. They've got some interesting E36 M3 as well!
If you manage to do it with Alumaloy and actually make it work, you'll be the first.
I can TIG aluminum OK and I'd probably have a real weldor come over to to the actual weld.
motomoron wrote:
If you manage to do it with Alumaloy and actually make it work, you'll be the first.
I can TIG aluminum OK and I'd probably have a real weldor come over to to the actual weld.
You need a clean, stainless steel wire wheel and a HUGE propane torch to get enough heat into everything to get the braze to melt and stick.
Yep, with alumaloy stuff, you typically want to set the whole part in a bbq grill, and get it too hot to touch throughout, then take it the rest of the way with a torch. Since that's out of the question (unless you've got access to an acetylene torch), you're better off jb welding a stud in, and keeping an eye on it.
Why is hitting the water jacket an issue again? Plenty of manifold or accessory bolts on plenty of engines do it. Drill, tap, add locktite or rtv to threads, and bolt back together.