Any suggestions for a "bolt-in" . . . ?
Currently in the middle of a project and need a suggestion or two for a rear end application. Don't have the coin on hand to shorten anything right now, especially having the axles re-splined. Looking for something already existing that might be close and can handle around mildly applied 150-175 horsepower?
Any suggestions, options, info, etc. on something that might fit in under there?
Thanks—
Maybe a Kei truck? MG midget? Early 80s RWD subcompact? Doubt any of them could handle the power though.
J Lo?
MG Midget is 47.5. But you would need some racing axles to make it hold together.
Postal Jeeps have some serious narrow Dana axles, but I am thinking more on the order of 52" than 47"
Sound like you need this for free, so I would be looking for drag racing discards.
Need more info! Where the pinion need to be? Centered, off to left or right? How many lugs? what type of brakes drum / disk? What's it going in and what its purpose (drag, circle track, street)? What's the GVW? What type of mountings (leaf, 4 link, 3 link with panhard. What's the budget?
Thanks. I don't want to take anything from anybody, not looking for free, but wondering if there wasn't a production car with a narrow rear that I could use.
The Postal Jeep DANA 44 is to wide, very close to the rear end in an MGB. Probably PERFECT for a V8 MGB conversion. I need something more along the lines of something that would fit an MG Midget.
If nothing come to mind, I may just have to change the engine going in or price out a narrowed rear end, whichever comes out costing less. Just looking for a decent daily driver in the end, not a track or show car, you know?
Perhaps take a 4wd truck front axle, shorten the long side to mirror the short side, and weld on some tabs to hold the tie rods? You could do it with cheap/free stock jeep parts, something like a XJ D30 and a spare short axle. This also yields a full floater setup and adjustable camber(to some extent) and toe. You'd actually have to run some degree of camber/toe to the the U joints happy.
I haz intrest in dis.
How much power would a Jeep Dana 44 take? I'm looking for something to fit a 1973 Corolla, although I haven't yet measured the width of the stock unit, it's apparent that it's not very wide.
In reply to Kenny_McCormic:
I think a yota axle would be better than trying to find d30 gears cut the correct direction because iirc yota cases are the same front and back.
DeadSkunk wrote: I haz intrest in dis. How much power would a Jeep Dana 44 take? I'm looking for something to fit a 1973 Corolla, although I haven't yet measured the width of the stock unit, it's apparent that it's not very wide.
depends on if you are talking about a stock axle or a built one. but stock with a light car and small tires prob 450-500hp.
MrChaos wrote: In reply to Kenny_McCormic: I think a yota axle would be better than trying to find d30 gears cut the correct direction because iirc yota cases are the same front and back.
The reverse cut will be fine (especially in a light car) assuming the higher pinion won't be an issue. Where does the pinion on the Toyota axle sit? If its lower than the front D30 you may have a point there. Though being a stamped housing rather than a cast center with tubes like the dana, it wont be as easy to shorten.
Some airport tugs had narrowed 9" axles right? Probably had 5.13's though.
Suzuki Samurai and Jeep Wagoner are the two easiest to find rear axles with offset housings. Either of them would probably hold up to making a new axle out of a pair of short sides.
I have a Dana 60 that's @ 44" wide but it might need to be rebuilt and it is probably @6:1. I'd give it to someone who would swap it and the transmission out on my Dipper tractor. I could even toss in a 4.10:1 Dana 60 for the center section.
In reply to oldopelguy:
I like that idea better than my own. Quick google indicates the short shaft in a samurai rear is ~21" flange to end, the long one ~29.5, original width 52.2 giving a finished width around 44" flange to flange.
In reply to MrChaos:
That's more power than I'm contemplating , so I'll have to go looking for a postal jeep. I just measured the rear end on the Corolla and it's about 52".
I have a toyota space van rear axle in the shop. Approx 57" drum to drum (dismantled, so hard to get exact) It takes standard toyota LSDs, and could take that kind of power. Maybe one of those and FWD offset wheels??
I have a freshly built ford 8" that's at 48 or 49" hub to hub - I need to measure it for someone tonight (you weren't on britishv8.com were you? Has Moser axles (4 x 4.5 bolt circle & 3.73 gears with a mini spool (also have 3.55 and 3.00 r&p sets laying around). It's probably good for 400 ft/lbs of torque. Sanctioning body for vintage racing recommends a semi floating axle for triumphs. The old guy that was known for modifying stock axles retired so I got the 8", shortened it... For a Triumph, it's a little chunky, so I finally figured out how to convert the stock unit to semi-floating and save about 60lbs.
Klayfish wrote: J Lo?
you beat me to it 
Threw a tape on it. It was dark but 44.5 flange to flange going over the center section a little so probably 44" flange to flange, hub to hub is 49 " close enough to work ?
How wide is the Corolla diff they use in Legend cars?
http://www.rpmproformance.com/products/legends-car-rearend-housings.html
In reply to Streetwiseguy:
Those are narrowed quite a bit. The pumpkin looks almost on center on my stock Corolla differential. It looks like they took all the difference out of one side,too, because of the offset drive shaft beside the driver.
I'd have to measure, but the Volvo 122 rear end (Dana 30) should be pretty close to that. 5 x 4.5 bolt pattern. If you're anywhere near zip 21158 I'll sell you one of mine cheap- I have a few. Ratio is a 4.10.
Thanks for the suggestions gang, I looked up the track width on all of the stockers suggested, too wide on all of them. I don't have any extra room to go beyond 48 inches drum face to drum face maximum and that will require front wheel drive style rims to clear the fenders; 47 inches is ideal. The construction of the rear quarters places a seam right in the center of the wheel well, so they can't be pulled and rolled any more than they already are without distorting them beyond repair and splitting the body seam right up to the rear side windows.
I'm sort of trapped here, you know. My measurements are precise, no wiggle room. Looks like I'll have to live with the stock rear end and baby the car to death, or save up for a custom built.
But thanks anyway ! ! ! ! ! !
About like this??
Sorry.
Didn't I just say, "No wiggle room." . . . ?
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