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Pete. (l33t FS)
Pete. (l33t FS) MegaDork
12/21/22 6:16 p.m.

In reply to dean1484 :

You will find that a lot of 8 lug trucks are 14x1.5 or 9/16-18 (which is really close) and they generally have a torque spec of 140-160, but a lot of people just reef them down until the impact gun stops, especially duallies with flat faced lug nuts.  They take that abuse just fine.

 

i still haven't bothered to see what the thread pitch is for the actual fastener in question smiley  If it didn't split the knuckle apart then it wasn't overtightened to the point of hurting anything.

Nockenwelle
Nockenwelle New Reader
12/21/22 7:03 p.m.

In reply to A 401 CJ :

OK, I misread your original post too. First time thru it sounded like it just wouldn't tighten to click. But since you actually got it to 96, the situation may be less dire. It might have opened up the aluminum knuckle taper some, which could give it a reason to split. Proceed with caution there. Backing off the nut is a problem though. If it was mine, I'd disassemble and reasssemble, if not replace the joint and knuckle anyway. 96 is a whole lot more than 60 (and also more than the extra 1/12-turn max needed to align a cotter pin hole on joints so equipped). I'll ignore the posts comparing ball stud torque and lug torque, as well as those indicating the poster has never done fastener preload calcs. A tapered ball joint stud is designed for a dedicated purpose and made accordingly. When off-book and evaluating what acceptable torque/preload is, we first need to know the steel alloy and heat treat used which determine material strength.

Pete. (l33t FS)
Pete. (l33t FS) MegaDork
12/21/22 7:12 p.m.

In reply to Nockenwelle :

The comparison to lug nut torque is simply in reference to the potential to damage the ball joint itself.  96 ain't gonna hurt it even if it is 12-1.75, which I doubt it is since that is typically only seen in tie rod ends.  Maybe upper ball joints.

Normal procedure with those cursed Nyloc type nuts is to first reef them tighter to seat the taper HARD, then try to loosen.  They usually still will grab the stud and overcome the taper fit, then spin uselessly.  If the joint is being replaced, the easy way is to cut the top of the stud and top off the nut off in one fell swoop before even trying...

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