So, 5:45 am, one mile from my house I’m dead stopped behind someone waiting to take a left when a 2012 Accord traveling maybe 40mph skips hitting the brakes and uses my bumper to stop.
When I say his car disintegrated, I’m not exaggerating. Horn stuck on, radiator unrecognizable, PS fluid, coolant and possibly motor oil all over the road, airbags deployed. The hood was folded up exposing the trashed motor.
I had to run up to his window and knock on it to ask if he was ok. Fortunately I walked with him to the side of the road and he was holding his arm but denied transport to the hospital.
Three cruisers showed up before the ambulance and all info gathered, police report picked up and a claim was filed just a few minutes ago.
So my question is this: when your 2005 Yukon Denali XL gets hit so hard that the bumper is folded underneath, the Class 3 hitch, attached to the frame is now pointing down and the license plate is all but disappeared up to the gas tank and my drivers door doesn’t open right, is that totaled?
How do they value a truck like that? Needed some rust repair but decent shape otherwise.
From that description, chances are the frame is bent enough that they won't fix it. Did it blow any airbags?
Sorry for the wreck and inconvenience, but glad you & the other driver survived intact. I think the real question you need to ask yourself is what are you going to LS-swap now?
Glad you both seem to be ok.
It's gonna be totaled. What's blue book on the truck? Guessing maybe $4-5k absolute max? If repairs are much over half that they're gonna total it.
So more to the point, what are the plans for your new LS donor? 
In reply to Pete Gossett : LQ4 6.0.
no airbags on mine blew. That’s a sure fire total in that case but sadly, no!
Looks like $4,500 trade, $6,XXX private sale and $8,XXX dealer sale.
Not sure how accurate that all is but I read it on the internet.
Pete Gossett said:
Sorry for the wreck and inconvenience, but glad you & the other driver survived intact. I think the real question you need to ask yourself is what are you going to LS-swap now?
I thought LS-swaps were a no-go because they weren't original enough?
E&E glad you're good. that critter is done. GEt yourself checked out within 24 hours. Dad didn't and is regretting it. Aches and pains won't hit until tomorrow.
It's toast. Start shopping, and prepare for potential arguments with the insurance company.
I bet this is going to be one of those that it depends on how much you push it. The door not closing means something bent. Frame? cab? both? The good side is these trucks really are not much more complex than legos. I have replaced frames due to accident damage on a suburban and it really was not that bad of a job. If I remember it was way less than 40 hours and parts were not much. Separating the body from the frame is not an overly complex job. The real issue is going to be determining what got bent and that may actually be what totals it as they will not want to spend the $$$$ to figure it out and then pay for the fix. If the body is bent (sounds like it) a lot will have to come apart to pull it and that will probably total it.
A total is determined by many factors and risk associated with the repair as well as the cost. This is all set by the insurance company. We all agree to when we sign on the bottom line. Most people don't read that stuff.
Glad your ok!!!!
On a side note I had a small ford product hit me from behind when I was in my explorer years back. It is amazing how much damage was done to the car. The bar that connects the frame rails for the trailer hitch took the head of the top of the motor. It was really quite spectacular. The truck only needed a bumper.
Oh and is it to early to speculate on your upcoming LS swap? 
Just kidding. ... ok not really. LOL
ebonyandivory said:
Looks like $4,500 trade, $6,XXX private sale and $8,XXX dealer sale.
Not sure how accurate that all is but I read it on the internet.
You go by dealer pricing. To repalce your car you go to a dealer and purchas a new one. Those are the prices that they will usually go by. Get 3-4 dealer advertised equivalent replacements. From my experience this means the exact year make and model AND the millage has to be very close. No one year newer or older. From my experience that is a no go. Make sure that you get the exact motor and trans as well. It goes with out saying that a 5.3 is not the same as a 6.0. Color is really not important unless you can prove that some how yours was special. Tell them that you have done the homework and have comps if they total the car. They will proibaly want to see them. Make sure that they are verifiable comps that they can call. I did this for my last accident and the insurance company thanked me.
This really should be an easy quick claim. There is really nothing special about your truck and replacements should be easy to come by.
Glad to hear you're OK. Definitely get yourself checked out, and don't sign anything that says you were not injured until you do.
How many miles on your truck?
In reply to dean1484 :
203k. The condition is not as nice as that maroon one.
Im so clueless when it comes to these things. I’m naive I know, but I was imagining the adjuster coming by, saying it’s totaled and cutting me a check for $3-4K and me going out to find another vehicle of my choosing.
I had no idea I was supposed to be finding verifiable ads of closely similar trucks and actively advocating for money.
Is that how this is supposed to work? (Remember my “house got hit by a car” thread?)
(I paid $3,500 for this truck last year. Am I expecting to make money on this?)
So, what do we all think the chances are that Mr. Accord Driver has learned a permanent lesson about cell phone distraction driving?
ebonyandivory said:
In reply to dean1484 :
203k. The condition is not as nice as that maroon one.
Im so clueless when it comes to these things. I’m naive I know, but I was imagining the adjuster coming by, saying it’s totaled and cutting me a check for $3-4K and me going out to find another vehicle of my choosing.
I had no idea I was supposed to be finding verifiable ads of closely similar trucks and actively advocating for money.
Is that how this is supposed to work? (Remember my “house got hit by a car” thread?)
(I paid $3,500 for this truck last year. Am I expecting to make money on this?)
Don't start an argument just for the sake of arguing, but be prepared in case he offers you $1500. Try to get what won't make you sad- if you can get what you paid for it, i'd call it good and move on.
In reply to WildScotsRacingCampbellCougarSeed :
No, you have it all wrong. He told me he was looking for his wallet. 
In reply to ebonyandivory :
No, you're right, that's basically how it goes. The only time you should have to do research yourself on the comps is when you're trying to dispute the value.
And definitely get yourself checked out. It's a CYA if nothing else, if aches and pains pop up down the road it gets harder to connect them to the accident as time goes on.
In reply to dean1484 :
It's never too soon! I wasn't off the side of the road yet when I started pondering potential swaps after my Camaro got wrecked last year, maybe not even out of the car. Think I posted a thread that night, or at the latest the next day.
(Inner monologue)
"Ok, all good? Now what am I gonna do with that motor?!?!"
Glad you're ok man, I know you liked that truck.
As a fellow Suburban owner/driver, this is why I hesitate to daily a small car anymore. If you were in a Miata that hit would have ended with you in the hospital or worse. As it is you have some inconvenience and get to shop for a new one.
In reply to ebonyandivory :
Oh, of course! I frequently need to get to my wallet at 40 mph. Doesn't everyone?
In reply to KyAllroad (Jeremy) :
I do/did like it! I wouldn't be TERRIBLY upset if they fixed it but the rockers were going to need replacing at some point and I feel like I don’t have the time especially since it’s my daily.
i have a new fondness after I got out and was AMAZED at the missing front half of the Accord compared to how little impact I actually felt
Woody
MegaDork
12/12/17 6:22 p.m.
Glad you're okay.
I'd take a close look at the roof and the A,B,C, and D pillars for any buckling if the door won't open. I'm betting it's totaled.
Kreb
UltraDork
12/12/17 6:30 p.m.
Sorry to hear, but glad that you're OK. I feel your pain. A lady in a minivan mistimed a left turn in front of me the other day, and my Ridgeline is looking pretty bad in the aftermath. Fully functional, but I'm afraid that they'll pull the plug rather than operate too. OTOH if I can get a settlement and a cheap buy-back, I think that I'd try to rebuild it myself. Best luck to you.
pimpm3
SuperDork
12/12/17 6:38 p.m.
Make sure you ask what the buy back figure is. Chances are you can keep it for about $650.00.
When the tree fell on my corvette in the hurricane the difference between them taking the car and me keeping it was only $2500.00. I took it straight to copart after I got the title from them and sold it for $5200.
