Is There a Way to Test a Fire Bottle / System?

The Halon fire system in my Datsun is quite old, like Bill was President old, and I am wondering if there is a way to test the mechanism?

My understanding of the mechanism is that its spring loaded and pulling the cable releases said spring to activate it. Beyond that I don't not if the mechanism punctures something and or depresses a valve.

Anyone have any clues how they work and can they be tested?

Note I am looking to replace it as it's, manually activated but I really want to know if the thing is fine; read I haven't been riding around with a bottle that shows charge but is useless.  

"NFPA 10 requires that all rechargeable extinguishers be emptied, checked for damaged parts, and recharged with fresh UL spec halon every 6 years. In addition, the hydrostatic test must be done after 12 years."

Sounds fun.

If you're going to replace it, pull the handle before you do and you'll find out!  If it's Halon, there's no mess but do it outside so you don't suffocate.

The manual systems are as you've described.  The top of the bottle is sealed.  The actuator cap has a spring-loaded mechanism that will puncture the seal.  The cable and/or the pin in the cap will hold the puncturing mechanism against the spring.

I guess you could pull the cap with the cable still installed, then pull the cable and see if the point bit springs out.  It looks kind of deadly, so I'd point it somewhere safe.  This would tell you if the mechanism will release, but I don't think you can reset it afterwords.   And it wouldn't tell you if it would successfully penetrate the seal on the top of the bottle.

Different groups have different recert rules.  SFI requires are recert every 2 years; I just sent my bottle back.  They didn't charge me for a refill, so they apparently don't actually discharge it.  Mine's Stroud, and they say they'll only recert until it's 6 years old, then it's done.  My vintage group doesn't require that the bottle ever get recertified, ARA requires it have a valid SFI/FIAA certification.

I accidentally discharged the ancient Halon bottle in my Vee.  I think I somehow pulled the cable while it was pinned at the bottle.  I thought I got the cable back in place, but apparently did not.  When I pulled the pin, it went off.  It was loud and made my legs cold, but was a non-event.  I did hold my breath and hop out as fast as I could, but the stuff shouldn't hurt you as long as you don't displace too much oxygen.

I wasn't *too* sad about it, because the bottle really was ancient and having one in there that's recent made me feel better.

Berck said:

If you're going to replace it, pull the handle before you do and you'll find out!  If it's Halon, there's no mess but do it outside so you don't suffocate.

Check and see if someone will buy the halon out of it first, it might be valuable since they're not allowed to make new.

Yeah, for sure *someone* will buy an old Halon bottle, given all the vintage groups that apparently don't care about dates on fire bottles.

If I were in your place, I'd keep the old bottle as a spare.  If you get a similar system that has the same fittings for the tubing / discharge nozzles, then you've got spare that would let you continue a race weekend should you have an accidental discharge.

I have a brand new system I was planning to eBay.  If the above is true, it's almost certainly aged out sitting in the box.  If the halon has value, I'd like to know where.

In reply to Apis Mellifera :

Google for "Halon buyer" in your area.  There are plenty.  But, is your system actually Halon?  The stuff hasn't been produced since 1994.

If it's never installed, I'm betting that someone racing with a group that doesn't require current certification will buy it on eBay.

For instance, my vintage club allows basically anything:

"The recommended fire control is an onboard fire system using Halon 1301 or 1211 OR ACCEPTABLE SUBSTITUTE with a five (5) pound capacity (by weight) with a minimum of two (2) nozzle locations. The onboard fire system must be armed (safety pin or pins removed) any time the car is on the track or gridded preparing to enter the track. The club's minimum requirement will be hand-held chemical extinguishers of at least two (2) pounds and have a 10BC Fire Rating, securely mounted within a driver's reach."

Or SVRA: "Fire Extinguishers: All cars must be equipped with a dry chemical or Halon fire extinguisher of at
least 2 pounds, securely mounted with a metal quick-release device, in the cockpit within reach of thedriver. On-board fire suppression systems are highly recommended."

As opposed to ARA which is annoying and requires FIA/SFI recert: "The unit must bear certification, from a certified fire extinguisher inspector, that it has been serviced annually or per the FIA/SFI requirements."

All to say, a timed-out bottle is perfectly good for some people and someone will probably buy it on eBay, possibly for more than the Halon itself is worth.

Good information.  It is Halon... from 1990.

codrus (Forum Supporter) said:

Berck said:

If you're going to replace it, pull the handle before you do and you'll find out!  If it's Halon, there's no mess but do it outside so you don't suffocate.

Check and see if someone will buy the halon out of it first, it might be valuable since they're not allowed to make new.

 

Not might be. Is.  Is extremely valuable. 

A friend pulled the pin in his road racing FD about 15-20 years ago and it cost well into four figures to recharge it, back then.

The neat thing about Halon is that it apparently interferes with the combustion process instead of just smothering out the oxygen, so it stops fires in a way that isn't hazardous to the people in the area because it takes a fairly low concentration to work.

In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :

Was this before Novec 1230 was released?  I can't see recharging a Halon system in a car when Novec 1230 is available for totally sane prices.  As best as I can tell it works the same as Halon, though does require slightly more agent for the same result.