Jeep XJ clutch issues

Alright, I've been having clutch issues with this Jeep since the Challenge. If any of you were there and heard my loud white beater XJ, you know how annoying it is. Anyway, onto my main problem.

My clutch isn't fully releasing. The master cylinder reservoir is always full of nasty fluid. I have flushed it out close to 10 times, and it gets dirty within a day or two. This leads me to believe that the cause is the clutch master. I'm also suspect of the slave, but it's a sealed unit that will require the removal of my transmission to repair.

Now, I'm on the fence here. I don't mind tossing a master slave at the Jeep since it's cheap. Beyond that, with the need of a bellhousing and clutch kit, I'd consider swapping over to an AW4 automatic. Everything to swap to an automatic isn't that much more expensive than getting the rest repaired. I'd rather have an AW4 Jeep than an AX15 Jeep. If I can make the AX15 continue to work for not much money, I'd rather keep it, though.

Another issue I've been having is rust in the cooling system. I've chemical flushed it and I've replaced everything I can with the exception of the heater core. I think what I'm experiencing is electrolysis. I have a Renix Jeep, so there isn't a radiator cap in the radiator. With that said, I've considered running a sacrificial anode. Since I have an external tank where I add coolant, I'm not sure how much it would help. Should I install a radiator cap and put an anode cap there? I think it will help out with my rapidly rusting out freeze plugs.

The slave cylinder

Well, upon more investigation, I do have a leaky master, so no matter, it needs to be replaced. The fluid is leaking into the cabin, so I know it's got a dead seal.

I did find that it's the easier to get to freeze plugs that are failing, but I have 2 failed ones, so I'm planning on replacing them all. In order to replace them, I have to pull in intake manifold and exhaust manifold. It's not a big deal, and while I'm in there, I think I'll do a head gasket and get the last freeze plug in the rear of the head. That gives me a new set of brass freeze plugs instead of the steel ones in there now. Hopefully those will last. I actually can't recall a single issue with a brass freeze plug, but I've always had issues with the cheapie stamped steel ones, like what's in the block right now.

Any other comments? Am I chasing a wild goose here? I just can't see how the clutch slave contaminates the clutch master reservoir as quickly as it does. This time around, it only took a trip around the block.

Failing rubber hoses will also put black E36 M3 in the system. You have several of those so good luck diagnosing that with anything other than the shotgun approach.

Yeah, the rubber components are failing. Unless things have changed, the clutch master, slave, and line now come as one assembly. I'm not sure if the (dealerships) sell each one separately. I personally wouldn't put an aftermarket slave in there. I don't want to pull the trans more than once.
That being said, the AW4 is a heckuva transmission.

I put a clutch master cylinder in my '93 about 6 months ago for the very same symptoms you describe. It's been perfect ever since. I wish I had done it sooner rather than put up with the pedal pumping for as long as I did. (took about 1/2 hour, too)

Well, I've decided to park the Jeep for now. I'll get it fixed when I get it back on the road. It needs several freeze plugs, and to get at them, I have to have the manifolds off. Since I have to have the manifolds off, I might as well do a head gasket job and check the head to see if I need to get it decked. Then I need to replace the floor pans and all of the suspension parts.

In the end, it's going to make a decent trail rig, but not right now.