Converter! C’mon guys, I love felines!
I have pretty good blowby. About a quart a tank. I’m too lazy to fix the valve stem seals. I’m getting choked out with the test pipe that came on this miata. How long will a new cat last until it’s plugged? That’s why the previous owner installed the test pipe.
Whatever you do don't fix the problem.
Always treat the symptom at any cost.
fix the valve stem seals.
FTFY
I think it will smell the same with a cat on, and will stop running pretty quickly. A month... six months... who knows? You're definitely on borrowed time there.
Opening the box should do it.
Robbie said:Opening the box should do it.
It’s the only way to know for sure.
bentwrench said:Whatever you do don't fix the problem.
Always treat the symptom at any cost.
It’s gonna happen. At some point. When I have money. And time. And care.
Ive never dicked with this sort of a scenario. I’ve never had a clogged cat. If you folks collectively said “years”, I would buy the cat and forget about the scenario until I dealt with the valve stem seals.
Get new head swap in less than a day? Ignore all the while you are there things.
Is this your DD? Or can it sit.
The oil from the purge flow isn't going to block the catalyst. But it will poison the front of it reasonably quickly. Depending on the year of your Miata (is it post '96?), it will tell you when it's stopped working well.
If you are not planning on fixing the engine soon, don't spend too much on the catalyst until you actually repair the head. Even the crappy ones will do something for a little while.
In reply to Robbie :
Sorry man I borrowed the batteries from your Geiger.
dean1484 said:Get new head swap in less than a day? Ignore all the while you are there things.
Is this your DD? Or can it sit.
It’s quicker to simply replace the seals on the engine. You need a leak down tester along with a valve compressor. You don’t even need to fully pull the timing belt. Takes a bit longer than swapping out cats but not much.
In reply to dean1484 :
It can sit. Especially this winter. Which is why I might just do the seals now. Let’s see.... what can I dismiss in life and not end up poor or divorced...
In reply to Keith Tanner :
Right. What tool were you guys using for the valve train? Someone had a tool to do the seals, Lisle?
Edit: this guy? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012S61IO/?coliid=I3TMKMY096QH12&colid=OCJB6KZAJFJO&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
I don't know how made the keeper removal tool, it's one we had in the box. Basically a steel tube with magnets inside. The valve spring compressor is a home-built job but it's basically one of these: https://www.amazon.com/8milelake-Valve-Installer-Compressor-Tool/dp/B01H3DLWTY/
Overview of procedure:
- remove the cams and the upper timing belt cover.
- pull the lifters - a magnet makes it easy
- pull the spark plug and pressurise the cylinder to 100 psi or so. Alternately, I've heard of packing it with rope. Basically, you want to keep the valve from falling out
- put the keeper removal tool over the valve spring retainer and hit with hammer. Alternately, use the compressor to unload the keepers and pull them out
- remove spring and retainer. Pull off seal. Replace seal. put the spring and retainer back
- use valve spring compressor to compress the spring and allow you to install the keepers. This is the fiddliest part in my experience.
- repeat 15 more times
- reassemble.
Timing belt notes: Reach down with a 14mm wrench to back off the timing belt tensioner bolt. Use the ignition timing marks to set the crank at TDC ("T" mark). Align cams so the I mark (intake) and E mark (exhaust) are at 12 o'clock and slip the timing belt over them. Turn the crank 1 5/6 turns, the ignition timing mark basically at 12 o'clock and lined up with the mark on the timing belt cover. Tighten the tensioner. Turn the extra 1/6 turn and the I/E marks will be exactly at 12. If they're off, it'll be by a full tooth. Don't let the internet freak you out, it's a really easy thing. No need to count teeth or do anything weird.
In reply to Keith Tanner :
Incredible. Thank you sir!
_ said:bentwrench said:Whatever you do don't fix the problem.
Always treat the symptom at any cost.
It’s gonna happen. At some point. When I have money. And time. And care.
Ive never dicked with this sort of a scenario. I’ve never had a clogged cat. If you folks collectively said “years”, I would buy the cat and forget about the scenario until I dealt with the valve stem seals.
If you fix the symptom you will never fix the cause, you even admit it here ^^^^^ .
How much carbon is building up behind the rings? Which may be the real problem not valve seals, or the valve seals have carbon'd up the rings and now both are causing problems.
Seafoam is mostly alcohol, and it most certainly did not clean out the ring lands.
Seafoam is not tuneup_in_a_can. You can't pour anything in the fuel tank or down the intake to fix the damage being inflicted on the motor by continued operation in a state of disrepair.
The only way to de-carbon the pistons is to remove the rings and scrape out the grooves. And that is still a waste of time way to try and save a motor.
Don’t worry. A leakdown will be done before parts are ordered. Everything is gonna be alright man.
_ said:I have pretty good blowby. About a quart a tank. I’m too lazy to fix the valve stem seals.
Blowby and valve seals are different problems but at that rate (of oil burning) if the seals are that bad it's because the guides are toast.
Suprf1y said:_ said:I have pretty good blowby. About a quart a tank. I’m too lazy to fix the valve stem seals.
Blowby and valve seals are different problems but at that rate (of oil burning) if the seals are that bad it's because the guides are toast.
Really? Welp, if that’s the case I’ll just drive this thing until it dies.
Killing a cat and I thought this was going to be another post about jaguar reliability and breaking down lol
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