How do these things work? I know they are pressurized and that they shoot oil into the oiling system if there's some starvation issue, but what do they hook to, what pressurizes them and can you make them work with any car?
How do these things work? I know they are pressurized and that they shoot oil into the oiling system if there's some starvation issue, but what do they hook to, what pressurizes them and can you make them work with any car?
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Here is their site http://www.accusump.com/accusump_tech.html#Howdoes
I am curious if anyone thinks they are worth it? They seem like a headache at least the electric one from what I've heard.
I've never used one, but many street stock racers I know have. It's basically just an extra oil tank with the oil stored under pressure. Before starting the engine, the tank is closed. You open the valve and pressurized oil goes to the engine and then you fire it up. Before you shut the engine off, you close the valve to keep the oil in. My experience would tell me that these things would be more of a benefit in Chumpcar or LeMons racing where you're using using systems not designed for racing with stock oil pans. I can't see any reason they couldn't be used on any engine with an oil pump. Very simple to use but you do have to get in the habit of closing the valve before you shut the engine off.
Also good for high-revving motorcycle engines that have been transplanted into cars that generate oh-my-god levels of grip.
We use a similar device in our LeGrand project.
Per
I have one in my car, it is connected to the oil filter housing using a kit one of the vendors for my car makes.
There is a mechanical or electronic valve you can get for them. The electronic valve can open whenever the pressure drops to a set point instead of just being open all the time like a manual valve is.
Personally I have the manual valve so I don't have to worry about any electrical gremlins or anything that might keep the valve from working properly. The only downside is if the car is warmed up it takes two people two fill the sump when you're done using it.
They absolutely work, especially if you are using a stock oil pan in a road race situation. Extended or sweeping turns can wreak havoc on an engine with a stock pan and the accusump keeps the oil volume and pressure up until the oil in the pan stabilizes.
The easiest way to hook into your system is with a remote oil filter mount. They tend to have an extra port where you can pipe in the accusump. You want to make sure there is a one way check valve in the line coming from the engine to the filter so the pressurized oil flows the correct way when needed.
If you add one with the manual valve make sure you start the car with it closed and only open when the car is at operating oil pressure. Then make a BIG sign for your dash to close the valve BEFORE you shut the car off. Or you can just get one with an electric, pressure operated valve.
We've got one with a mechanical valve in our Chump Alfa, to do just exactly what has been described by ncjay, Per, and hobiercr. Feeds oil pressure to the engine immediately prior to startup and in long, high-speed corners (like the Carousel at Road America). We open our valve about 5 seconds before starting the car, shut it just before killing the engine (unless its a quick pit stop, then we leave it open).
I put one in my IT car 20 years ago. I am restoring the car now and per the Accusump site, I put 60 psi of air pressure in it to test the seals and it held all of the pressure overnight, so the seals must still be good. One less thing to buy!
In terms of being worth it, I wouldn't bother adding one to an engine that was not observed to have oil starvation problems. If you want to save wear on startup, hook up a system to cut ignition (and maybe fuel) on cranking until oil pressure reaches a certain level, that's what the supercar manufacturers do.
I don't have starvation problems but I'm dealing with a weird engine and, when I upgrade to R-comps, some serious g force. My home track features an 85 mph sweeper that goes on forever. That's 6k rpm for me.
Given these parameters, do you think it's worth the effort to be safe?
DaewooOfDeath wrote: I don't have starvation problems but I'm dealing with a weird engine and, when I upgrade to R-comps, some serious g force. My home track features an 85 mph sweeper that goes on forever. That's 6k rpm for me. Given these parameters, do you think it's worth the effort to be safe?
What's the cost of the setup vs cost of a new motor if you're wrong?
A lot of guys, myself included, have used non air pressurized tanks. I have used an empty fire extinguisher and it worked fine on my subie. I have only ever used a solenoid valve so I can't give you any advice about manual valves.
Elises come with one.
92CelicaHalfTrac wrote:DaewooOfDeath wrote: I don't have starvation problems but I'm dealing with a weird engine and, when I upgrade to R-comps, some serious g force. My home track features an 85 mph sweeper that goes on forever. That's 6k rpm for me. Given these parameters, do you think it's worth the effort to be safe?What's the cost of the setup vs cost of a new motor if you're wrong?
It looks like a brand new accusump would run be about 250 bucks. I can get new engines for 500 bucks.
Think I answered my own question ...
Try Ebay. I sold an Accusump with most of the plumbing for $150 several years ago.
Rog
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