learn me an fittings

So im about to spend a small fortune on an fittings. Push lock, black, -6.

I have found them a lot cheaper on eBay than summit/local speed shop.

But, are they created equal? It's for a fuel system, 60psi rail pressure.

So, I guess the learn me part is what's the difference between a 15 dollar-6an 90 degree push lock fitting and the $5 eBay version?

Unless it has changed in recent years, I still wouldn't use push lock hose. I've seen too many cars burnt up from push lock hose. The biggest problem is getting the hose cut square.

Ymmv

Ps- most eBay crap is Chinese crap. I wouldn't use it personally. Although I have heard good things about the Redhorse brand of fittings even though they are Chinese.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Plumbing

Fuel system... Buy the good stuff.

i used ebay as a source for fittings for my challenge car, non push lock. real braided cut the crap out of your fingers stuff. they were very high quality, and looked exactly like my summit racing branded fittings less the name on them. i would buy them again for a non budget oriented project.

I had used a couple of cheap push lock ends from ebay to plumb the surge tank on the elky. Forgot about that till the wife just reminded me. Much lower pressure than the duster will be running. But 10k miles on them. Ill check them out and see how they are holding up. I still have one in my plumbing box, and it feels lighter than the summit one in there.

I guess I still don't have a clue though.

We crimp hoses at work all day long. We all hate push lok hose and fittings. In our world we know it as 37 degree JIC flare fittings.

Most shops are known to "jam" you on the price for walk-ins or will-call counters. Negotiate carefully.

Wasn't there a tool that allowed you to crimp them at home? Or does one need real special tools for that?

flatlander937 wrote: http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Plumbing Fuel system... Buy the good stuff.

Holy crap that reads like a hyper sensationalized ad for Russel fuel fittings. Oh wait. .. it is!

Kool tool (khul tool) is what you want to use. it will take about a minute each to fab up fittings when you get the hang of it.

AN stood for Army-Navy spec, but none of the stuff you find retail really meets the AN Mil spec. As was mentioned JIC fittings are the commercial version. Find thyself a good hydraulics shop and you'll be surprised what they have there. Our local one also carries the aluminum faux AN racing stuff.

If you plan on doing a lot of them now and in the future, invest in the Koul tool. If you're just doing a small amount, then buy a set of the vice jaws. Doing them by hand will have you looking like you stuck your hand in a box of pissed off cats. If you're using PTFE, definitely buy a tool for the job, they're almost impossible to do by hand.

I've only used the Summit/Jeg's branded stuff and a few odd name brand fittings so I'm not sure on the quality across the board. I'd assume the Summit/Jeg's stuff is the same stuff you buy from Hong Kong just with their name laser etched on.

Push on never used it much as it wasn't allowed in my racing except in a few places so I used the braided stuff everywhere.

Never owned the Koul tool...yet. Yes PTFE can be a pain but I was able to do it with out it just use the right mandrel before trying to insert the fitting.

Using the right lube is key in braided rubber hose can't believe how well they slip on with it I had tried every lube in the shop bought a small squeeze bottle of Earls or Russell's lube and WOW 50% easier.

As for cutting the hose I got 2ft long cable cutters at a big box store....they stay for copper only...never had a problem and there's no damage to them after many years of use.

Fittings go name brand try circle track places you will find for the same fitting there's a ton of different prices even though everyone says they have the lowest... As everyone has said JIC and AN fitting can interchange HOWEVER JIC are normally Steel and weight comes with that along with higher pressure Cert's

http://www.anplumbing.com/

If doing braided hoses by hand, the bigger hose sizes are actually easier. -10, -8 are simple, -6 is doable with the right technique and lube, -4 and smaller is really tricky. I pretty much always use Earl's hose and hose ends, although for simple one-piece stuff like AN-to-NPT adapters I'm willing to try other brands.

For cutting hose I use the "wrap in duct tape and cut with a dremel cutoff wheel" approach.

In reply to codrus:

I likes 3M electrical tape vs the duct tape.

Ebay is flooded with NASCAR take-off bits. Nice stuff too: Pro-gold fittings, various hose types, all magnitudes of lengths. I plumbed my dry-sump system for a fraction of the retail cost. Even if you have to cut it shorter and change/replace one fitting end, you're money way ahead.

Jumper K. Balls wrote:

flatlander937 wrote: http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Plumbing Fuel system... Buy the good stuff.

Holy crap that reads like a hyper sensationalized ad for Russel fuel fittings. Oh wait. .. it is!

Well if you ignore all the tech about routing stuff, thread pitches, difference between AN and JIC, among the other load of info like what to look for in BAD fittings like sharp 90 and stuff then sure.

Find a better put together tech article.

Also if you have a Farm and Fleet NAPA near you, they probably have the capability of making hoses for you. That was where I had a pair of hoses made for my Jeep when I added hydro-assist and it was cheap to have crimped properly. Just make sure the ends are clocked correctly if not using a swivel fitting.

One big warning: if you're looking for a fitting for a factory push-lock fuel line, stay away from the Russell parts with plastic inserts. Well, unless you're okay with them blowing off and spraying 60 psi fuel all over the engine. I'd extend that to random eBay parts as well.

These bastards don't stay put. Yes, I know the OEs can make it work. But Russell can't. I've had them blow off on track. Customers have had them blow off. There's something fundamentally wrong with their design. I suspect it's the internal shape of the aluminum bit.

Luckily, there is a good option. They make a two-piece unit that basically bolts on. It's bombproof.

5/16" to -6: Russell 644110
3/8" to -6: Russell 644120

We sell them at Flyin' Miata, but you can get them anywhere. I would strongly, strongly recommend spending the extra few bucks to get this part.

Don't use an abrasive wheel to cut hose. you end up with particles in the hose. Use a Blade type cutter. like these

Keith: I've never seen the plastic ones before just the two piece metal ones and yes they do work well.

I use electrical tape as well.

codrus wrote: If doing braided hoses by hand, the bigger hose sizes are actually easier. -10, -8 are simple, -6 is doable with the right technique and lube, -4 and smaller is really tricky. I pretty much always use Earl's hose and hose ends, although for simple one-piece stuff like AN-to-NPT adapters I'm willing to try other brands. For cutting hose I use the "wrap in duct tape and cut with a dremel cutoff wheel" approach.

All this.

I use Earl or Russel. The Summit-brand AN stuff is junk.

Push-lock hose is evidence of a malevolent Motorsports Demon who wishes nothing but pain and suffering upon gearheads.

I bought a Koul Tool for #6 AN's. http://www.koultools.com/InstructionsAN.html

That thing is worth it's weight in finger blood.

44Dwarf wrote: Don't use an abrasive wheel to cut hose. you end up with particles in the hose. Use a Blade type cutter. like these Keith: I've never seen the plastic ones before just the two piece metal ones and yes they do work well. I use electrical tape as well.

Note that I'm talking about connecting to a factory steel fuel fitting, not the push-on type of fitting you would use to make a hose. Almost every application of the quick disconnect factory-style push lock uses a plastic clip.

My experience with no-name eBay AN fittings is that you can definitely feel the difference between them and a quality product. Many of them feel like they were lubricated with sand.

Keith Tanner wrote: Almost every application of the quick disconnect factory-style push lock uses a plastic clip.

Yeah, and the plastic clips seem to work fine with the plastic housings they usually get used with. Something about the plastic-clip-in-aluminum-housing just doesn't work.