Rio is great. Comfy. Capable. Well equipped. But it's also the bottom tiered car in the line up. The sound pads that Kia pu into the doors have come loose and broken so the only sound deadening is the door panel.
With an upcoming trip and next years one lap I'd like to quiet it down a little. Weight isn't an issue because I'm so close to the P2W limit in SC it doesn't matter.
What's the hives opinion. Spray in? Stick on? I'm thinking of doing the rear spare tire well at the same time. Something to take some tire noise and resonance out of the 4 doors and rear area. Truly making it the most comfy Sundae Cup car out there.
Bob, email me. I have a metric ton of the stick on sound sealer. I can send you some.
It cuts easy and sticks very well. I lined the entire rear of my Fiesta to cut down the sound along with covering the Elantra's interior holes with it over top of the fire foam.
The big online store who's name is taken from a forest in Brazil has some of their name branded sound deadening pads and are fairly inexpensive. I put some various open spots on my cars when I have the door cards pulled for other work. None of them are as quiet as a Bentley, but it did reduce the ambient noise. I get a lot of road noise, so I need to do some on the floor panels (or add some thicker underlayment), but haven't had a reason to pull any of those up yet.
-Rob
If you're concocting something DIY, here's a tip from a guy who did his thesis on the properties of the acoustics of sound in the overtone series.
Sound hates change. What's happening is that sound hits the panel, makes the panel vibrate, and just transfers that sound energy to the inside of the car. That's why the dynamat type stuff works. It does two things primarily - 1) it's gooey so it makes the panel very resistant to vibes, and 2) the sound that tries to make it through has to go from a solid metal to a viscous tar, then through some paper or foil. That changing of substrates is key.
Then (if you have the space) I like to put something soft and fuzzy on the inside of the airspace. That way, any sound that does make it through will get foiled by the softies instead of bouncing around.
I've used the Home Despot sourced Peel 'n Seal for years and it's a great budget option. Covers a large area and really dampens resonance.
In reply to Curtis73 (Forum Supporter) :
Good, I'm gladd you popped in Mr Sound engineer. It's been a looooooong time since I took classes on acoustics but the speakers are in the doors as well. I don't want to pack the door because I'm afraid the speakers won't have the dead space behind the cone to work properly. And because when it rains that fuzzy stuff will get wet and moldy.
Is there any of the sticky/Dynamat type stuff that doesn't used an asphalt based glue?
I'm worried about it sliding down in the Oklahoma sun and stinking up the inside of the car. Granted things may have changed, it's been at least 15 years since I messed with any of that stuff.
z31maniac said:
Is there any of the sticky/Dynamat type stuff that doesn't used an asphalt based glue?
I'm worried about it sliding down in the Oklahoma sun and stinking up the inside of the car. Granted things may have changed, it's been at least 15 years since I messed with any of that stuff.
As a matter of fact most of it doesn't and is butyl rubber based. The problem is that people want to save $20 on their project so they go to Home Depot and buy the asphalt-based Peel 'n Seal instead of something made for the job like the Noico (my preference)/Dynamat/Fatmat/etc products made for automotive applications.
A video with Tim that might help.
jgrewe
HalfDork
9/15/22 12:24 p.m.
I've wrapped to inside of my Dodge truck with Noico peel and stick. Floor, doors and back wall of the cab. It made a difference but I still wasn't happy with the results. I bought a roll of mass loaded vinyl from here: https://massloadedvinyl.com/
I used 2lb/sqft on the floor and back wall and it was a huge improvement over the peel and stick only. I have a db meter and measured over a 20db drop in the cab at 70mph. I did a bunch of stuff to the quiet the engine at the source but the MLV was probably the best single item.
I bought a roll of 1lb MLV for the doors but I haven't even installed it because the truck is pleasant to be in on a road trip now. I ended up using some in the back of my Bugeye as a trunk matt because the back of the car acts as a megaphone for any gear noise. HUGE difference.
For your car I would go with 1/2lb and use it behind the interior panels in the doors, trunk, under the front carpet. if you can get the kick panels off easily put some in there too.
I tried to buy some Noico peel and stick a while back and the big box was listed at over $200, I remembered paying about $70. I looked at the box I had some left in and saw "Product of Russia" so I think there is something going on with supply right now.
bobzilla said:
kevinatfms said:
Bob, email me. I have a metric ton of the stick on sound sealer. I can send you some.
It cuts easy and sticks very well. I lined the entire rear of my Fiesta to cut down the sound along with covering the Elantra's interior holes with it over top of the fire foam.
message sent
Didnt get anything through email. Mind if i text you? I believe i have your number(unless its changed).
Another GRM member i think emailed me but i tried to text the number with no response.
I haven' changed numbers since I got this one in 1998 lol 765-376-3190
Regarding melting asphalt sheets.
If you do attempt to go the "building materials" route look for products labeled as HT - high temp. Example: GCP Ultra. Or Carlisle WIP 300 HT. I have no idea if these roofing materials help with sound deadening but I do know the HT materials are butyl based.
In reply to pointofdeparture :
Can confirm that Noico is the best ive used in a while. I bought it while it was cheap on Amazon(40sq/ft for under $100). They even gave me a cool little roller thing to press the stuff into place.
I had a rattle in the left side doors of the Rio when I bought it. The left rear door lock actuator wasn't working so I took the panel off. The square peice that Kia put on the door to cancel noise had gotten hard, fallen off and broken into chunks.
I'd noticed that even on hte all seasons and stock exhuast mine was just louder inside. Now I know why. It's good having twinsies with the wife. I can compare whas normal and whats not.
bobzilla said:
I haven' changed numbers since I got this one in 1998 lol 765-376-3190
Texted you yesterday at 5:32. Ill try again here in a minute. Just shoot me the address and ill get it sent out tomorrow.
In reply to kevinatfms :
that's odd. I don't have anything but I texted others.
5345 S 300 E LEbanon,IN 46052
Let me know how much owe you.
bobzilla said:
In reply to kevinatfms :
that's odd. I don't have anything but I texted others.
5345 S 300 E LEbanon,IN 46052
Let me know how much owe you.
Coming your way tomorrow. Will email you tracking number. Just pay the shipping.
You will get it tomorrow per USPS. ENjoy.
bobzilla said:
In reply to Curtis73 (Forum Supporter) :
Good, I'm gladd you popped in Mr Sound engineer. It's been a looooooong time since I took classes on acoustics but the speakers are in the doors as well. I don't want to pack the door because I'm afraid the speakers won't have the dead space behind the cone to work properly. And because when it rains that fuzzy stuff will get wet and moldy.
I wouldn't worry about the speakers performing. They are already a free-air installation, so if anything the fuzzy stuff might help them. I can dig not wanting to have something absorbent. Rock wool probably won't get moldy, but it will hold some water which might cause rust issues.
OHSCrifle said:
Regarding melting asphalt sheets.
If you do attempt to go the "building materials" route look for products labeled as HT - high temp. Example: GCP Ultra. Or Carlisle WIP 300 HT. I have no idea if these roofing materials help with sound deadening but I do know the HT materials are butyl based.
I was going to say the same thing. HT ice/water shield or flashing tape is basically a thin version of dynamat.
You can also search for Rammat or another generic version. Dynamat is so expensive because they took foil-backed butyl tape from the roofing section of the hardware store and sold it to a niche audiophile market. Flex seal did the same thing with their rolls of butyl tape.
I know with my car (65 Corvair), just putting 1 ft square right in the middle of the doors (most flexible point) makes a huge difference.
Point is: You don't have to cover a panel. A small piece in the middle does 80% of a what a full coating will do.
Aircooled's experience mirrors mine. Covering only the most flexible part of the panel makes a big difference.
You might also want to look at Rammat vs. Dynamat. Less expensive, very similar, & works well. Rammat also sells ensolite, which is useful in some situations & weighs very little.
