Learn me FB RX-7s

Get a fuel filter while at the store. Check for vacuum leaks. Nice score on the base model, much desired for the racer set

When you're ready for those 14's, give me a shout ;-)

Super-jealous by the way!

Shouldn't have clicked this thread. There is a minty bright red first gen for sale that I see about 3 times a week. I don't want to stop and look because I might be able to afford it. Nice car, good luck with it!

Javelin, i might hold off on the wheels and pick up a set of adapters (gasp!) from a local guy. I have... hmm.. 9? sets of 4x100 wheels, and the 4x110 to 4x100 adapters are pretty common, don't plan to do any lapping with the car with those I don't think.

Yeah, ok so fuel filter, got it.. I was surprised, the fuel was shooting into the carb with no problem when pumping it, but it would fire and i'd try to keep it running with a rev and it would die.. gasoline not powerful enough?

also, are these 14" and 4x110?

N/A Rotaries will run on the crappiest gas you can find, but I would run 91 or 93 octane for the first tank after it has been stored for a while.

As for those wheels, they look like old phone-dialer wheels from a 2nd. gen. RX-7. If so, then they have a 4x114.3 bolt pattern. Hate to say it, but there aren't many wheel choices out there for non-GSL-SE 1st. gens.

Good to know..

I have a feeling the gas is just bad? It roared to life but wouldnt stay on when i tried to give it some pedal to stay alive.

Those are definitely NOT 4x110. Actual 4x110 wheels are incredibly hard to find, and usually heavy. I've been stashing a genuine set of Hayashi Street II's (4-spoke aluminum hi performance wheel) for the better part of 2 years awaiting another SA/FB.

Adapters do not work well on them, I know from experience. They are already under-braked and have little wheel-well room. That said, a 4x114.3 GSL-SE swap is a great bargain. I also have 1/2 of that setup in the shed. And half of an interior. Did I mention I haven't owned an RX7 in 2 years?

I guess I could put money down on finding a list of everything i'd need to do a 4x114.3 swap on rx7club.com?

There are 2 newer GSL-Es at a "local" (read 2.5 hours away) yard, that i wanted the body parts from, i should grab the running gear too..

oooh. hayashi streets.

Stale gas is a possibility. Ethanol-laden gas wasn't around in 1982. I would try running some Sta-bil Marine/Seafoam and premium gas first. Also check for vacuum leaks. My non-turbo FC would stall if started cold unless I gave it a little extra juice on startup. I tracked that problem down to bad vacuum hoses, and now I've replaced most of them with heat-resistant silicone vacuum hoses.

Drain the old fuel out, add some new, then disconnect the fuel line before the carb and turn on the pump to clear the lines. Then put in the new filter. Also carry a spare filter at all times. Your idling, but stumbling when revved up, is a classic blocked fuel filter tell tale and a very common 1st Gen issue.

Once it has run for a few minutes change the oil and plugs also.

Use Seafoam to clear the carbon around the seals, add a bottle to a 1/8 tank of gas and be prepared for the white out that the resulting smoke will cause. I had a 12a that had very poor compression until this was done, cleared up all the start up smoking issues immediately.

Easy mods include

Headers and exhaust
Upgrade the carb, I used a Mikuni with stock port
Use two stroke oil 50:1 ratio and block off the oil injection
Do a 2nd gen leading coil upgrade, it is an easy DIY project

Like this mine went from 17 mpg to 25 mpg and gained about 40 to 50 hp.

GSL_SE suspension swap is front struts complete and the complete rear end. You can't swap the axles as your rear end has smaller axles and bearings. Remembver the GSL-SE has 114.3 lug spacing, 4.1 LSD and larger rear discs than a GSL plus the offset is 40 rather than the 4 x 110 offset of 26.

I have some new old stock Boge or KYB (can't remember which brand) rear shocks in my garage. In the GRM spirit they are yours, gratis. I live in Kingston, and I think we know people in common so pick-up/delivery shouldn't be too hard to arrange.

OH! Thanks ZOO!

I found a racing beat road race dual exit 12A header that I'm going to pick up also (seeing as I have to build a full exhaust any how..

50:1 two stroke? I read guys are running 150:1, not enough?

I used synthetic 2 stroke and yes it needs to be higher mix than for a 2 stroke engine

There are 'wobble bolts' which allow the use of 4x108 pattern wheels (think four bolt Mustang) on a 4x110 FB. They worked good on Toyman's car. Till his kid blew the damn motor, that is.

I had the rear axles and rotors for the Jensenator redrilled for 4x100. No reason that couldn't be done on the front as well. The usual press in studs could be used but need to be really short, or the hubs can be redrilled and tapped for the 12mm thread and then you can use the very common VW Bug conversion studs.

I think I'm going to get the spacers and see how those work out for me.

I pulled the fuel filter off and found lots of black sludge in the filter. I don't think the electric pump is working..

Check the fuel pump wiring, it goes through the floor behind the driver's seat and inside the cabin there, this is often a point where the wiring rubs through causing a ground issue for the fuel pump.

The fuel pump itself is a Facet and they are almost foolproof.

Check the fusible links also, I always replace the old wire style ones with 2nd gen RX7 units, it is a plug and play job.

The front hub has too large of a center to allow 4x100 with just a re-drill. 4x114.3 fits though, or 4x108.

I was on clubrx7 all last night (yawn...) and read that dropping the tank is a small affair, so I will probably end up doing that today.

Seeing as I have to do the brake lines on this car (and maybe the fuel lines upon further inspection) I think I may pull the rear end out and coat everything in POR15, including the tank.

When you pull the tank inspect it carefully, they tend to rust on the top, it can be repaired with a POR fuel tank repair kit, I know I did it.

The rear end is a mongrel to pull out the rubber will not want to let go, a hint, use a drill bit around 3/16 and drill through the rubber then let it walk around the bushing. You will have to burn out the old crap. Get poly bushings to replace them but beware of suspension bind-up, most stock FB race cars use foam in the upper links to avoid the bind issue. Yes I said foam

Get your replacement rear end first because you will not want to do it twice. I recommend a 84 or 85 GSL if you want to keep the 110x4 or GSL-SE if you want to change to 114.3 wheels. Note SE has common rims, 4.1 LSD ratio, bigger discs and is considered the better LSD set up. SE front struts bolt in easily also.

I went another route, custom equal length 4 link FTW

Jeez the bushings are that big of an issue? Maybe I'll just leave the rear end in the car then. I mostly want to drive it before summer is over. Wtf is with the rear brakes, ran in series? I see a line enter and leave the LR wheel cylinder..

I never really messed with the drums, but suspect it might be a parking brake, the lines split at a block mounted on the axle housing

Pulled the tank down, pretty simple, it's rough, has a Pinhole so I'm going to get it cleaned up. The body shell is immaculate tho

How is the fuel gauge sender wiring, had to rebuild mine as the spade connectors had rotted away.

The sender was in decent shape, gauge still worked that's for sure. is it held in with screws? i could barely tell.

Yes if you do remove it be very careful of the gasket, I had to make a new one