motomoron
motomoron Dork
5/14/13 1:48 p.m.

I'm towing the race effort with my 3.4 V6, 2WD auto, Tacoma SR5 Prerunner.

It's a light car and a light trailer, but it's a pain in the ass crawling to the back of the bed under the cap to dredge stuff out, and it's thirsty pulling up the hills to and from VIR. It's looking a bit shopworn at 130k, and I'd like something which would allow a bigger trailer some day.

I'd like to do it right and do it once.

Mainly, which engine is the one to get? Are there any option packages I need to have or absolutely should avoid? I see really lifted looking ones, and low ones - is this factory?

I'm in no hurry, just starting a long search.

BoxheadTim
BoxheadTim PowerDork
5/14/13 1:54 p.m.

The one everybody seems to want is the 7.3, but that's reflected in the prices. I think the ones with the non-redneck lift are probably 4x4s, the lower ones RWD.

curtis73
curtis73 UltraDork
5/14/13 1:57 p.m.

Absolutely, hands down, get the 7.3L. It was the best powerstroke by far. The 6.0L has a host of annoying problems that can be overcome, but you'll be opening the big wallet. Some of those upgrades require lifting the body off the frame.

EGR coolers, oil coolers, and head gaskets were known issues on the 6.0L. If fixed early, they can be just a few grand. If you wait until they fail, you're probably looking at a complete rebuild or a new engine.

7.3L are easy to modify and the only real failure points are GPRs (cheap to buy and about 15 minutes to install) and CMPS (pretty cheap to buy and an hour to install). Expect to go through GPRs about once every 75k and CMPs every 150-200k.

7.3L injectors (if cared for) should last 300k or more. As with all powerstrokes, don't skimp on oil changes. They use an HEUI injection which uses super-high pressure engine oil to pressurize the fuel for injection. It does cause the oil to break down a little faster. I change mine at 3000 with conventional oil and 5000-6000 with synthetic.

curtis73
curtis73 UltraDork
5/14/13 2:08 p.m.

The 4x4s do have a pretty tall stance from the factory... taller than you would think. The RWDs almost look like a 1/2 ton with smaller tires and a lower stance.

The factory setups are pretty stout. As usual, I would get a huge aftermarket tranny cooler to replace the little plate/fin setup from the factory. The turbo and intercooler are pretty well matched. The intercooler isn't a restriction or an inefficiency until about 450 crank HP.

4" downpipe, 4" exhaust, intake, and chip (along with the requisite EGT gauge, boost PSI and tranny temp gauges) will get you squarely into the 400s with 20 mpgs or so. At this level you shouldn't notice any reduction in reliability as long as you are good to the E4OD/4r100 tranny. Use a conservative tune for towing (or a stock setting) and you'll be great.

As far as options go, I wouldn't worry much about it. The tow package from Ford included the hitch and wiring. No changes were made to the tranny cooler or oil cooler in the Excursion. Power windows and locks prove to be reliable, as is the A/C system. Cloth seats in Excursions are a bit uninspired, but quality fabric. Leather seems to be above average, but will show wear like any other vehicle.

If you get a 4x4, try to find one with a manual floor shifter instead of the pushbutton. The automated 4x4 uses servos and vacuum to engage and disengage. They can be problematic. The floor shifter is a steel rod that manually puts the transfer case in gear. Its reliable as heck.

belteshazzar
belteshazzar UberDork
5/14/13 2:11 p.m.
curtis73 wrote: The floor shifter is a steel rod that manually puts the transfer case in gear. Its reliable as heck.

the steel rod is as reliable as a steel rod.

SEADave
SEADave New Reader
5/14/13 2:37 p.m.

I have had my 2000 7.3 4x4 for just over five and half years now. I can’t really speak to other years/engines/models, but here is what I know:

When you are doing an oil change get used to thinking in gallons instead of quarts. I buy four gallons and will use 3 and about half of the last. I use Rotella T-6 full synthetic, which is nice because I also put it in my BMW and motorcycles when I had them. I use Motorcraft 1995 filters which you can find pretty easy at most auto parts places, I think Walmart might have carried them too. It’s nice that you don’t have to use a jack, ramps or anything to change the oil.

I replace fuel filters every 15k or so, they are easy to do since they are right on top of the engine. I get a bunch cheap online. I run B100 in the summer and at least B20 in the winter; I don’t think it really matters, the old filters I take out never look all that bad.

4X4 Excursions have solid axle leaf spring front ends. It doesn’t ride like a Suburban, it rides like a truck. Also, if you look closely you will see that the springs are just an inch or so from the bump stops. Ford forced de-arched springs on Excursions so that soccer moms could fit them in their McMansion garages. Supposedly swapping to same model-year F250 springs gives you more travel and a better ride. I haven’t done this yet on mine.

Excursions also go through ball joints pretty regularly. When you replace them use good parts that are greasable and grease them. I also had to do front wheel bearings, not a hard job and again use good name-brand parts.

Sway bar end links are a crappy design and will wear out causing a clunk in the front end. Your options are to either remove the bushing material from the original links and replace with poly, or replace the whole link with a ball-jointed MOOG “problem solver.” Or I suppose you could replace with OEM style and just plan on re-doing it every 25k miles.

The water outlet/thermostat housing is a crappy stamped metal design that will leak eventually. Just plan on replacing the housing whenever you flush your coolant, it’s available cheaply aftermarket. There are also reinforcing rings and even billet aluminum housings if this really becomes a problem. On the topic of cooling systems, be sure to use a coolant or coolant additive to prevent cavitation. Not that much of an issue on Powerstrokes, but worth spending a few extra bucks to be safe. Oh, and replace your cap with an aftermarket one – the OE one is a crappy design and probably isn’t holding the pressure it was designed to hold.

Power lock actuators are an issue with all Superduties, I just replaced the bad ones with Dorman replacements when we first got the truck and haven’t had any problems since.

That’s about it. Other than the above, five plus years of ownership and no major problems. Seeing as there is really nothing out there to replace it, we plan on keeping ours indefinitely.

dinger
dinger Reader
5/14/13 2:46 p.m.

A diesel excursion will do great pulling an open trailer, and respectable towing an enclosed. Mine tows a 20' enclosed weighing about 7000 lbs containing the race car, tools, etc. It has plenty of power to pull the trailer but isn't quite as effortless as a newer Duramax, Cummins, or 6.4/6.7 Powerstroke. It is however, reliable as gravity and has 240,000 miles and counting.

Be aware that Excursions are more softly sprung than their pickup brothers, and you will have to at minimum add a rear sway bar if yours did not come with one. Mine didn't and I added a unit from Hellewig which made a huge difference. If you are going to tow heavy, plan on adding rear air bags, helper springs, or swapping to F-250 springs in order to handle the weight. I haven't done this yet to mine and large bumps or crosswinds can be unnerving compared to my old Duramax powered GMC.

jimbbski
jimbbski HalfDork
5/14/13 4:47 p.m.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/index.php

A place for Ford truck owners. Good info there.

Teggsan
Teggsan Reader
5/14/13 9:19 p.m.

Must do:

Hellwig bar

DP Tuner for moar horsepowers and torques

E load range tires if not so equipped

After this, you have a great tow vehicle.

Second the recommendation to visit ford-trucks.com

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