Learn me: repainting model cars

This doesn't really fit in with any of the current modeling threads, so I figured I'd create a new one.  I did see a couple other people talk about refinishing plastic models as well in those threads, so maybe this will help some others out as well.

Backstory:  my dad just got himself a new Tesla 3.  It's part of the fulfillment of his lifelong dream to have a house with solar that could also power his car.  He's a retired electrical engineer, so somehow he's made it happen.  I try to find him a model of his cars, usually in 1/43  but in the case of the Tesla, the only options to seem to be red, and red.  And for like $250, a 1/18 scale from Tesla's website. 

Obligatory car pic, with his RSX for comparison:

I secured the cheapest of the 2442324 Red 'limited edition' models on Ebay, all of which are a nice dark red.  The car is made by Burago.

After a bit of disassembly, it now looks like this:

So from this point,things get a bit less obvious to me.  My first question - how to remove the present paint?  I m assuming that the die cast body wouldn't do so well in the bead blaster.  Regular household paint stripper?

Question/concern #2: it looks like the 'T' emblems and door handles are little decals.  Any chance of finding these or finding a way to paint them on?

Concern#3 - is this idea a completely ridiculous failure in the making?  (I can still easily pop it back together at this point)

I did order some Tamiya primer and paint based on discussions in the other model build threads. I picked TS53 'deep metallic blue' which sounds about right.  I figure the color match doesn't need to be perfect.

1. I can't find the thread I'm looking for on a car modeling forum, but apparently automotive paint stripper, Easy Off, or Purple Power. Or brake fluid, if you have lots of time and want to do it old school.

2. If the emblems and door handles are raised, use a Molotow chrome pen to "draw" them back on.

3. No

Tamiya primer and paint are great!

EDIT: I think Javelin did a how-to video for Hot Wheels a while back. I'm sure he'll be along shortly with better info.

Oven cleaner works great. Bleach to a lesser degree. Purple power isn't as good as it used to be. Apparently a formula change to make it safer.

However, if the paint on the model is pretty good you could just sand it down to rough it up, primer, and then top coat. Depends really on how thick the paint is on it.

Agreed on the Molotow pens. I just got some and they are great.

I've been using Testors (Rust-Oleum) paint from a rattle can and have had really good results. As with any paint job prep is crucial. Straight from the rattle can.

Yes, I have made a few videos on this process. This is the main one:

I made a more recent one attempting paint stripping with isopropyl alcohol:

Long story short, it doesn't work that well.

I used to use Westley's Bleche-Wite tire cleaner for the plastic models, but they got bought out by Black Magic and now it doesn't work nearly as well. Castrol Super Clean is what I recommend now. You are dealing with metal though, right? For that, good old gloopy aircraft paint remover will be the ticket. It will take all of the paint off and leave the metal fresh and ready for new paint. The Hot Wheels restoration guys on YouTube swear by CitriStrip.

I think the Tamiya primer and paint combo will work great on the refinishing! Use Tamiya clear as well if you really want a factory-looking finish.

As for the the Tesla "T" emblems, they are simple enough that you can draw them on with a 1mm Molotow liquid chrome pen.

Super fun project! Make sure you update us with how it goes!

On a die-cast model I wouldn't even bother stripping the paint. The reason we strip plastic models is because they are usually poorly painted with mediocre quality paint (Testors or...shudder...Pactra). A die-cast model built and sprayed in a toy factory will actually have a good paint on it.

So, I'd just sand it with some wet-n-dry to get some adhesion, primer it (to be compatible with your final coat brand) and then spray away.

I had a Burago Saab 900 repainted by a guy in a body shop for me because it was the only way to get 'rose quartz' paint like my Dad's car had. Just sanded, primed and sprayed both the base and clear on. Looked fantastic. Don't overthink this.

If it's die cast I've had good luck slathering on a layer of paint stripper, scrapping with a plastic scraper  and a brass brush.  Most of the paint would blister up and come off in one application. For new emblems the easiest is probably getting clear decal paper and printing some. I've had pretty good luck with the paper and sealer from the Testors kit. 

If you go the stripper route, wrap the body in Saran Wrap after you put the stripper on it... it keeps it in place. I'd probably just scotchbrite the current finish, and paint over it though.

Current status:  primer on, awaiting 'Covid-friendly Amazon shipping' of the blue from Idaho.  Bizarre.

I was planning to the KISS method that several people recommended, but then I looked at how thick the paint was, and the hood looked somewhat 'meh' already with factory paint, so I went into EasyOff hell for a bit.  It definitely should be used under adult supervision. In my case, the grown-ups showed up a bit too late.

EasyOff ProTip#1: Use in a well-ventilated area, away from nice things.  ie not the kitchen.

ProTip#2, this stuff burns.. Use gloves, common sense, etc. when using this product.

I kind of 'miss-remembered' Saron's advice to use saran wrap, grabbed some aluminum foil, hosed the car down in EasyOff, and walked away.  Ten minutes later, some dramatic yelling from the kitchen reminded me that I am a moron...

Basically, I had re-created this scene:

After a suitable amount of Italian woman yelling, and assurances that there was no actual damage done, I grabbed a ziploc bag and got back to work...

The white primer layer was very thick.  After a few rounds of basting in EasyOff and cleaning with a brass bristle brush, we arrived at a nice clean shell.

OK, progress finally, as Father's Day is approaching...

I got it painted in color, and figured I would go the Motolow chrome for door handles.  I've discovered that blue painter's tape is not suitable as a guide.  That's not just a reflection.

So, a bit of sanding, another coat of the blue, more shaky application of the chrome pen, and here we are:

The paint looks great out in the sun, my detail work not so much.  I'm going to shoot some clear on it tomorrow and put it back together.