learn me TD04-15G turbochargers

In reply to Spinout007:

The bike would spike up there too for about a second then back off. Just food for thought.

If we get a new actuator do we need similar psi spring ratings to our chosen EBC psi setting?

Good question. Going to have to dig into that one. I'm thinking a 15PSI actuator as a "safe" fail point, then bump it up with EBC

Add a blowoff valve.

Allow the blowoff to temper the inlet charge, and the waste gate to protect against overcharging.

I think that's the way they are supposed to work.

Tell me more about the E36 M3ty Greddy wastegate.

What are the issues?

The actuator? The pushrod? The gate? The seat? The housing?

The actuator if everything I'm reading is correct. They stick and surge and generally are known to not close back up once they open.

MrJoshua yes EBC can use whatever size spring waste gate actuator.

Svrex a blowoff valve simply protects the charge piping and turbo from surge. It also helps keep the turbo spooled between shifts by not stopping the airflow when the throttle plate shuts.

I WANT MOAR!!!!

Well, with a td04 on a Miata you're going to be having that feeling a lot.

I am bumping this, just because I want to.

Leafy wrote: On the miata any of the "performance" td04s would be fine for the 250 goal; 13t, 19t, 20t, 15g. It sounds like you have a Greddy setup maybe on the 1.6. Your problem is 100% the E36 M3ty ass greddy waste gate actuator.

Still I don't see the point if 16gs are so plentiful. I see ones for like $200 sometimes. Why not just get that?

A very few people have eeked 300hp out of a 15g on a 8v 2.3 volvo so it should be great on a 1.6 miata. That was my plan as I have one im taking off my 200hp volvo @14psi to go on my 1.6 but I may sell it if youre interested, 4k miles on the rebuild and a ported exhaust housing. Also has an upgraded ipd cbv valve (built in recirculation valve)

In reply to chiodos:

How much do you want?

kanaric wrote:

Leafy wrote: On the miata any of the "performance" td04s would be fine for the 250 goal; 13t, 19t, 20t, 15g. It sounds like you have a Greddy setup maybe on the 1.6. Your problem is 100% the E36 M3ty ass greddy waste gate actuator.

Still I don't see the point if 16gs are so plentiful. I see ones for like $200 sometimes. Why not just get that?

A $200 16g needs a $70 rebuild kit (that might not fit) and should get sent out to be balanced after you rebuild it because china didnt balance it the first time. A $150 wrx takeoff td04-13t can just get put into the car as is.

I liked the DSM TD05 14B I ran on my 1.6L Miata. It was a little lazy down low but would hit 15 psi my 3500 rpms and pull hard to redline. No idea how much power it would make but my best time with crap launches was 13.7@108mph. I also had a 50 trim Volvo T3 (.48 AR exhaust housing?) and it spooled a little better down low but just didn’t pull as hard as the 14B up top.

So i have a td04-13t from an xc70 and im building a rig(fj40) with a weird, inefficient old straight six (like intake and exhaust on the same side, 4.2l makin 120 advertised crank hp). I want to be able to make whistley noises and pull a little trailer with it. Is this too small a snail for the displacement regardless of efficiency or will it just be responsive and awesome?

Thats WAY too small. The volvo td04 does have the ability to have the 7cm housing which would be better than the 6cm on the subaru version, but even on the 2.5 wrx motor the td04 turbine housing is just way too freaking small. I make peak boost at 3k rpm but I can make boost at idle under load with the thing. And its hard to stay out of boost on the highway. On a big old I6 I think I'd want one of the smaller holsets or like one of the smaller wheeled td06 like a 16g-td06SL2.

I was thinking that the airflow was what was important to turbo sizing rather than displacement. Isnt 120hp=120hp/160ftlbs in terms of the flow characteristics?

It is a 4.2l designed for a truck in the 50s or even maybe earlier. Im trying to make 170hp or something, just trying to gain some grunt.

What about two td04-13t

There's a thought

You would think the power would match up like that but it kind of doesnt. Stroke is the biggest factor. No doubt with that big motor you're way outside the range of what any td04 turbine can support.

So that leads us to the question, what junkyard turbo would be best for a really low efficiency 4.2l straight 6 wanting to make another 50hp/tq and whistley noises. Or should I just twin it up like psudo said? Kinda threadjacking here, sorry.

One TD04-12T is pretty much instaboost on my low revving 2-liter. Peak manifold pressure by the time the pedal crushes carpet. So a pair of 13ts on an engine a little over twice as large would make sense.

SVreX wrote: In reply to chiodos: How much do you want?

Ill ship it for 300. Very few miles on a new rebuild and balance like 5000-7000 miles ago. Message me an im sure we can work something out

sesto elemento wrote: So i have a td04-13t from an xc70 and im building a rig(fj40) with a weird, inefficient old straight six (like intake and exhaust on the same side, 4.2l makin 120 advertised crank hp). I want to be able to make whistley noises and pull a little trailer with it. Is this too small a snail for the displacement regardless of efficiency or will it just be responsive and awesome?

Get you a straight flange exhaust housing (if its not already) and weld on a 3in v band on the outlet. Then go to ebay and get a larger compressor housing like 18t or 19t. Put it all together with your chra and new seals, have it balanced by the local turbo shop and on low boost that should be an ideal turbo for what your looking for. Enough flow yet still a quick spool (ie instant) but still you may just be better off getting a tdo5 16g or even a holset hy30 or hy35

Wait are we talking about putting a friggin td04 on a 4.2L engine right now?

I just got here and i already quit.