I got a trade offer for a car I'm selling, the guy says, "We have a garret 60 trim turbo a t28 turbo an manifold for a sr20." The first one says "m10" on it in the photo he sent.
What does the GRM brain trust think about the turbos? Approximately what would these be worth? Would either be appropriate for a Toyota 22re or a Honda d16 (two projects I've got going)?
I don't need the manifold because I won't have an sr20 if the deal goes through.
Thanks!
The "m10" is a baby. Worth $100 in good shape. Good for a d16 for moderate power levels and quick response. Not so good for 22re.
Thanks, that sounds good for what I want for the d16 project. Anybody have any thoughts on the t28? I am told it came off a sr20det.
BTW, what should I be looking for on these things? Bearing play? Corrosion?
Vigo
UltraDork
7/7/13 11:52 a.m.
So the garrett 60 trim and the t28 are different turbos? Because it's possible to have a garrett turbo with a 60 trim t3 compressor side and a t25/28 turbine side.. Basically oldschool disco potato without the ball bearings.
60 trim doesnt tell you much by itself, you need to know what 'family' of compressor wheels it is a 60 trim of. A 60 trim t3 wheel can make low-300s hp, a 60 trim t4 wheel would be a 500-600hp turbo, and there's a 99% chance that the turbine side would be different depending on which one it was (noone hooks a 300hp compressor to a 600hp turbine or vice versa).
The t28 only comes one way: small. There are people that squeeze over 300hp of air through a t28 turbine section, but generally speaking that is a turbo for a pretty small motor, sub-2.0L.
jere
Reader
7/7/13 1:05 p.m.
If its for an sr there are ball bearing and journal bearing, and a couple different similar housings. They aren't worth more than $200 with stuff like the manifolds and lines. There are RWD turbos and AWD turbos and each have small differences in housings, bolt patterns, wastegates.
Also as already said the AWD variants are good for a little over 300whp on the sr20s but that is usually pushing it.
The journal bearing styles don't spool up as quick but are rebuildable. With these you there is a little play in the wheels up and down but not in and out.
The ball bearings turbos are a little less common, but once they are shot they are junk. You have to change the whole center section to make them work again for which you could just buy a new turbo. These shouldn't have any play.
Check the blades on the wheels for any foreign object damage, that could also be a deal breaker.