Learn my friend second-gen MR2

Actually going to redo the test. Going ot leave the spark plug in the high tension cord. Going to see if there is spark

Update: No spark. SO hopefully igniter will fix all of taht!

Ohms for primary coil resistance, jump around, then drop to 0. Bad coil?

Update: Primary resistance jumps around then goes to zero. Secondary ohms are spot on being at 13 ohms

Update: New ignition coil did not work. Will test distributor amperage. Installing new ignitor tomorrow

Sorry for the extreme spam fellas but this is what I have done -

- 1) Checked all spark plugs - good

- 2) Checked for spark by attaching plugs to tension cords, cranked motor = NO SPARK

- 3) Took off ignition coils - amperage is good. I don't get a primary reading as it jumps around then zeroes, but secondary amperage is right

- 4) Ignitor is weathered to hayle. I don't know how to test it, but I have ordered one and will install it tomorrow.

- 5) Have not tested distributor, nor do I want to

• 6) What grounds should I be aware of? I think there is a Cruise Control delete, so some wires hanging around over there. Looks like PO soldered and taped most of them though

I have the BGB with me too

Update: I've taken off the distributor cap, and the high tension cord from the spark plug. Maybe I am not putting the multimeter plugs right, not I'm not getting a reading?

Are the plugs getting wet from all that cranking? Check your efi fuse in the rear fuse box.

Plugs are dry, Fuse is good. Nothing burnt

Igniter didn't work. Hmm...I'm stuck

Sal_the_man wrote: Igniter didn't work. Hmm...I'm stuck

Jumper FP and +B in the diagnostic port and try. This will ensure that you're getting fuel.

Also, bookmark this.

Break out your multimeter and follow these easy steps --

http://www.lovehorsepower.com/bgb/mechanical/volume1/ignition_system/5.htm

If you're sure there's no spark under cranking and the efi fuse is good...do a quick check to make sure there's still a timing belt on there and in the right place when you rotate it to TDC #1. Make sure you're getting fuel...either by verifying the fuel pump control circuit is functioning (FP to +B) or with a quick shot of starting fluid.

If those pass, then you either have a bad distributor, the ECU isn't sending the IGT signal, or there is a break in the wiring between the ECU and the igniter.

It's a pain, but if you're methodical, you can narrow this down in an hour. Luckily, these are simple efi systems. ECUs interchange without having to be reprogrammed. No canbus to mess with. You'll get this knocked out.

Word, I'll see if I can do this tomorrow then. I want it back on the road!

In reply to Tyler H:

What do you mean by Jumper FP and +B. What do I do after I short those?

And I'm not sure if I'm using the multimeter right when testing for resistance to coils. I took off the cap, put the negative lead in the coil and the positive lead on the metal piece sticking out of the cap. I also set it to 200k, no reading?

15A EFI fuse, and 7.5A ECU fuse are good

Update: Shorted FP and B+, and did not hear anything. Whenever I crank it, I do smell fuel though.

Just put the key in the "on" position, all I get is a click from the engine, no whirring.

With a (decently thick) jumper wire between +b and fp in the diagnostic port, the fuel pump should be running all the time. Stock pumps are pretty quiet, but should be audible without the engine running.

That was just a check to determine that your fuel pump and the circuitry is working.

Run through the troubleshooting tree in order and you'll find the problem. If you have juice at the coil, and ignition signal to the ignitor, fuel, and the right timing, something is going to happen.

Sal_the_man wrote: Just put the key in the "on" position, all I get is a click from the engine, no whirring.

This is normal, as the fuel pump doesn't engage until it gets a cranking signal from the ECU or the engine is running. That's why I suggested trying to start it with it jumped, just to rule out any inherent safety Toyota engineered into the fuel system. ;)

Sorry, forgot to turn the car in the on position. Fuel pump is whining. I used a paper clip lol

Coil is fine, not sure how to check ignition signal, fuel is good. Maybe I should take off top timing cover to check if timing has jumped

In reply to Tyler H:

Ohhh okay, so short those two wires, THEN start it?

Sal_the_man wrote: Sorry, forgot to turn the car in the on position. Fuel pump is whining. I used a paper clip lol Coil is fine, not sure how to check ignition signal, fuel is good. Maybe I should take off top timing cover to check if timing has jumped

Just grasping at straws, have you pulled the carpet in the rear trunk to make sure the ecu is plugged in securely and properly mounted to the rear firewall so that it has a ground?

A peek at the timing belt won't hurt anything, but I would save that until after you work through the 'no start' troubleshooting tree and test the distributor. It's easier to remove and bench test the dist than to get the timing cover off. Just look for the clean spot where the dist lock-down bolt was when you put it back together and re-time it at some point. (you jump t1 to te1 to disable the automatic timing control, set it to 10' BTDC with then engine warm and accessories off.)

In reply to Tyler H:

Yes, I checked it just now. Bolted on there well. I'm following the BGB troubleshooting guide you linked...

• I checked coil for spark to the body, none.
• I checked spark for the coil to spark plug, none.
• So I checked for resistance to coil by taking off the cap as shown in the guide. Battery is hooked up, but car is off. Negative lead in coil, positive lead to metal piece in cap, nothing. Used 200k on multimeter as well. I think I should double check this part

I'll turn the car on then test for resistance

Well I think I found the culprit! let me get a picture. Something is wrong with coil #3

Look at coil second from the right. All messed up, could that be the cause?

Oh snap, ignition coil #2 is completely fubared and so is the spark plug which I can't get out

Holy crap lol:

I still don't think this is the root of my no start issue. There is play in the disributor rotor but don't have a stick to measure gap between rotor and feeler gauge

So I sent this ish in. I was right about the distributor but he told me there are electrical issues...FFFFFFFUUUUUUUUU!!!

If it's fixed, he's still going to give me a fair deal -mega crossed fingers- I hope its not too big of a problem

You keep referring to multiple coils, but when I replaced the coil on my 91, there was only one, located on the rear firewall.

Am I confused, or should this car only have one coil?

Wish you were closer. A six pack and an hour later, that would be running with all of the spares I have laying around.

In reply to Will:

I mean the high tension cords that lead to the spark plugs. Sorry, I'm used to having a car with multiple coil packs - my I30

In reply to Tyler H:

Yar bro :( Well, at least I have a bit of experience working on it, which isn't too bad thus far. Just wish I had time to do this on my own

I'm not good with electrical issues though

I picked up my car today, 10 miles later it broke down again. The PO really fudged up the wiring with the aftermarket head unit. I don't know how to work with wires so I left it with him.

Really upset. Could be worse though shrug

Mega bump! Summary, has new spark plug wires and ignition relay. Mechanic also fixed the wiring issues. Car stalled on me again on campus. Chanic and friends are convinced it's the distributor that's taking a poop so I ordered a TwosRUs rebuilt one from an org member for $45 as opposed to $300 for a new one.

Hope this works, driving it again was a blast and definitely has me motivated to have this running again. Plus, all the two truck drivers give me compliments about it ^__^ lol

There is an exhaust leak which I also believe is the source of my power loss and huge hesitation issues. Wasn't there before.