Lern me Model A's

I realize there are very few of us that know much about these, but I'd like to learn a little.  I've sort of decided I'd like to buy one.

My first question is about the variations.  Model A's came in a lot of forms.  I think the best looking one is the Roadster, but I understand the Roadster doesn't have side windows.  That's probably a deal breaker.

Pickups are out.  I want a back seat, but a rumble seat would be fine.

If I am looking for a convertible with side glass, I think I have to be looking at Cabriolets.  But their mechanism looks awkward (from what I am seeing- I haven't found a decent video or pics both up and down).  It looks like the B pillar of the Cabrio folds back with the roof.  Intriguing, but my concern is it looks like there are a LOT of potential leakage points.  If they are prone to leakage, that would be a deal breaker.

I want a basically original (largely unmodified) car that can handle a cross-country trip.  Convertible with a rumble seat and windows that don't leak is my first choice, but if the roof is prone to leakage I will be looking at Coupes with rumble seats (or the bigger sedans). 

What are the variations?  What are the basic pros and cons of each?  Then there seems to be variations of the variations (like a Deluxe Cabriolet).  What are the things I should watch out for?

Thanks for the education.

In reply to SVreX (Forum Supporter) :

Model A Club of America can answer all your questions & probably help you find a good example. Just remember they are not highway cars & mechanics who can make the mechanical brakes work properly are much rarer than the cars are.

A Model A Cabriolet is very weather RESISTANT but it's not water tight, you may get drops here and there.

You'll be fine on a cross country trip if you stay off the interstate.

They're pretty simple and very reliable, the fuel system is gravity fed so no fuel pump to go bad, I would carry a set of points and a good condenser.  Get a known good, used condenser and solder some alligator leads on it. If the ignition starts acting up, clip the known good condenser onto the distributor and stop at the next parts store. We've had a lot of problems with crappy offshore made condensers these days and old ones are lasting longer than new ones.

Don't bother with an electronic ignition conversion, the points can be fixed at the side of the road with a matchbook, if electronics fail and you don't carry a spare, you'd better have a cel phone.

Brakes are easy to set up properly and once they're done, you will have more brake than you do traction so a conversion really isn't necessary. Learn what the car is capable of and what it isn't.

Change the windscreen glass out for safety glass if you're touring.

28/29 A's are different than 30/31 A's and the 28/29 ones are cheaper.

I keep a couple Model A's in touring condition for customers, they're not a big deal really. If you have any questions, feel free to PM me.

There is a sedan in nice original-ish resto in the pole barn. Needs the fenders redone from cracking paint but a cool car. Not certain what dad wants to do with it. It hasn't driven in seven years.

In reply to ShawnG :

What are the differences between 28/29 A's and 30/31 A's?

Water resistant is probably fine.  And yes, I would definitely be staying off the interstate.

In reply to John Brown (Forum Supporter) :

Ummm... 

You can't post something like that without details!

In reply to ShawnG :

LOL "matchbook" :-)

I mean, I know exactly what you're saying and I've done it many times, but I'm 53 years old. :-)

In reply to John Brown (Forum Supporter) :

I need to go in the barn next time

I ran into this guy in Yosemite two years ago as he was driving most of the west coast.  He had some cooling issues but it was a guy and his tween age son 

I thought it was cool.  
 

The difference between 28/29 and 30/31 is cosmetics. 

The cowl and windshield pillar area on a 30/31 is a nicer and less complex shape. Also, the 28/29 fuel tank is part of the firewall, whereas the 30/31 the tank is behind the firewall. 30/31 doors are a differnet shape too.

28/29 (this car has a 32 frame and grille shell but ignore that):

30/31:

There are also differences in trunk lids, tail lights, etc. They don't affect availability, mostly interchangability.

In reply to Datsun310Guy :

That's a model T.

All model T's have cooling "issues" They boil over on a long climb. Henry even mentions it in the manual.

Go find Peter Egan's story from Road & Track, probably 25 years ago, where he and Chris Beebe did one of their long drives (Wisconsin to Los Angeles) in a Model A.  I've never had much to do with them, but that story seemed like it was full of pertinent information for a drive like yours.  The article is in one of his "On the Road" collections, and I would recommend buying the book even if you do find the story online.  I really enjoy his road trip stories.

I'm going to go find that book as soon as I get home, now that I've thought of it.  Haven't read it for several years.

Trying to drive an Isetta to Road Atlanta is a good one, too.

In reply to Patrick (Forum Supporter) :

Oh God yes you do

There even is an updated engine with pressure oiling and full flow oil filter etc.

The "T" had thermo syphon cooling.

  The "A" has a water pump.

The 28 2 door sedan that was my first car to repair and drive had no front brakes and rear mechanical brakes. Top speed is 45-50 mph. Wipers were vacuum/hand operated. Heat is from an opening in firewall with radiator fan providing flow from engine compartment and no defrost. Headlights leave much to be desired. No turn signals. Wire wheels with tubed tires. I met a guy from Wisconsin that used to do a motoring/camping trip each summer in his. 

I think I'd rather road trip a hot-rodded car with some upgrades, but that's just me.

slowbird said:

I think I'd rather road trip a hot-rodded car with some upgrades, but that's just me.

There is more to it, which of course I am not willing to share quite yet.  

I really think that a Tudor would be the best Model A for a long road trip. 

And even the sedans will be prone to leaks, as the tops were fabric over wood. Full steel roofs came along later at Ford.

I remember stories about my grandfather re-tarring the roof of his car to keep the water out. 

ShawnG said:

In reply to Datsun310Guy :

That's a model T.

All model T's have cooling "issues" They boil over on a long climb. Henry even mentions it in the manual.

I know it is.  My point was a guy traveling across the USA 2 years ago in an old Ford.  

In reply to SVreX (Forum Supporter) :

Weather Leakage is normal in any Car built 90 years ago. What are you doing driving an 90 year old grandma?pa? In the rain or snow?  
They make modern cars for that. 
The  fun of a Model A is the very elemental nature of the car. Exposure to the wind and elements is actually part of its charm. Remember heaters were optional ( and not all that common ) 

Not sure if this has been mentioned yet or if it is even relevant but here are a couple of links to a story about a man who drove a model A for one year as a daily driver. Might be helpful.

 https://www.autoblog.com/2011/03/18/365-days-of-a-one-mans-quest-to-drive-a-ford-model-a-for-entir/

https://www.hagerty.com/media/market-trends/model-a-for-a-year/

iceracer said:

There even is an updated engine with pressure oiling and full flow oil filter etc.

Wasn't that the model C? I don't think the model B (1932 4 cylinder) had it but it's been too many decades since I last poured a set of Babbitt bearings. 

Tom Suddard did a stint driving his grandfather's Model A on a regular basis, and there were some writeups in the magazine: https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/classic-cars/am-i-crazy-model-a-content-inside/66467/page1/