Let there be Light???

So my low beams SUCK.

Three years of Columbus, OH street lights spoiled me. Now that we're back in God's Country, out in the sticks, I realize just how terrible my headlights are.

I'm often overdriving the distance of my low beams even at posted speeds, dangerous. Brights are not the greatest but acceptable. I've got a Scan Tech replacement assembly on the left side, came with whatever Scan Crap bulbs already installed, and I've got a factory (Pick-n-Pull) assembly with whatever bulb the parts department at my old job had in stock on the right.

I NEED MORE, light, I have the lights adjusted properly according to the literature that came with the Scan Tech assembly. They do not shine far enough/bright enough.

Typical H4 9006 bulbs. Before I go throwing money at bulbs I thought I'd ask the collective for advise, experience, anecdotes, what's the best bulb and/or best bulb for the money?

I don't want to hack up my lights for HID projector conversion, I absolutely don't want to stick HID bulbs in my stock housing. I want brighter lights but refuse to be the Shiny Happy Jack Hole blinding other motorists.

I have read some about Philips and Toshiba HIR bulbs, but only recently discovered them while searching for what Google could tell me about the best bulbs. If they truly were the way to go and really don't have the downside of HIDs in Halogen reflectors issues they sound promising, but I'm not 100% sure on fitment issues.

So lay it on me, what do I want, and what should I stay away from?

• Lee

What car is this on?

Depending on the car, opening the housings for a projector conversion isn't all that difficult. I've done it several times on several different cars. There are some companies that make projector setups that fit into the stock housings with virtually no modifications, but it will depend on what your car is.

Your other option would be to get a pair of good driving lights (Hellas, most likely) for use with your low beams. Aimed correctly they are legal and often much brighter than your low beams along the same plane.

I can't think of much else to do with your stock housings unaltered. Different bulbs aren't going to make a significant difference unless you're using the plug-and-play HID stuff, which as you say....are blinding and not really much better anyhow with reflector housings.

check out theretrofitsource.com for some options. The kit I have from them uses OEM Subaru ballasts with HID projectors replacing my stock halogen projectors. They're great...perfect cut-off and no glare. From behind the wheel they illuminate just like the well-knwon Acura TSX headlights, which are some of the best stock lights out there.

In reply to irish44j:

I guess that'd be helpful info huh?

Volvo 850.

There are aftermarket "Angel Eyes" that are too Ricey for my taste.

I was hoping to be satisfied with something like these: http://www.amazon.com/Philips-X-treme-Power-Headlight-Low-Beam/dp/B00480N154/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1385350465&sr=1-1&keywords=Philips+9006XTP

• Lee

Driving lights? Also, do you mean 9006 twist lock single filament, or 9003/H4? H4 is the spring clip retention, double filament bulb and HIR does not exist in dual filament form.

In reply to Kenny_McCormic:

They twist in, single filament, there's separate bulbs for high and low. I've seen them listed as both 9006 and H4 when searching for replacement bulbs online.

Further evidence that I need assistance.

• Lee

bigdaddylee82 wrote: In reply to irish44j: I guess that'd be helpful info huh? Volvo 850. There are aftermarket "Angel Eyes" that are too Ricey for my taste. I was hoping to be satisfied with something like these: http://www.amazon.com/Philips-X-treme-Power-Headlight-Low-Beam/dp/B00480N154/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1385350465&sr=1-1&keywords=Philips+9006XTP - Lee

I've used some of the bulbs over the years that claim majorly increased power and visibility, but haven't really found any that I could say were a significant improvement. Sometimes the different "K" rating (color/heat) can give the impression that one is brighter than another. You want something in the 4300-5000K range. Over 5000K and your eyes are deceiving you. It may look "whiter" but it's actually reducing visibility.

The X-treme Power (now replaced by the X-Treme Vision) is supposedly one of the best for a straight-swap of just bulbs, so might be worth giving a try. I have no personal experience.

That said, once you go to projectors, you never want to go back to reflector headlights, IMO.

Those ebay lights are pretty ricey looking for sure, and those projectors are alsmot certainly halogen-style projectors that give sucky light output. But a QUALITY low-beam HID projector retrofit into your stock housings would not only look good, but perform much better than stock. Having a place like retrofitsource do it for you would probably run you $500 all told (parts and labor), just a guess.

You'd keep your reflector high beams, BUT you could do a bi-xenon low-beam projector like I did. When I flip my brights, both my stock halogen high-beams go on, and the bixenon "flap" pops up on my low beam projector and REALLY lights up the neighborhood. It's actually pretty amazing.

Yeah, i did a lot of research into this E36 M3 when I wanted to upgrade the WRX's lousy stock halogen projectors.

Have you measure voltage drop at your headlight connectors? That's usually the cause if you have all new lighting installed up there.

In that case, I'd first look at euro lights, or go with driving lights and/or HIR if euro is cost prohibitive.

Derick Freese wrote: Have you measure voltage drop at your headlight connectors? That's usually the cause if you have all new lighting installed up there.

I have not, nor would I know what is acceptable. I have replaced all of the wiring harness pigtails with ones that were in better shape than mine. Mine were terrible hard dry cracked insulation flaking off. The Pick-n-Pull replacements only had a couple cracks and I slathered liquid electrical tape on them. So you might be on to something.

Kenny_McCormic said: In that case, I'd first look at euro lights, or go with driving lights and/or HIR if euro is cost prohibitive.

Cost is a concern, and to do HIDs correctly, is more than I'm comfortable spending on the car at the present, if I could wind up with a safe and acceptable lighting solution for under $100 I could stomach that, less than $50 would be sweet, hence the $30 Philips twin pack linked earlier.

The only "Euro" option I've seen are the E-code lenses, and they have mixed reviews in the Volvo community. Some say they're great others say "meh."

The HIR did peak my interest, and I'd like to know more. Are they just a replacement bulb, I can twist them into the housing in my socket and plug them into my harness, no mods?

Also the "Driving Lights?" I come from the Jeep world, and when I hear "Driving Light," I think of my KC Daylighters, certainly not safe for other motorists I meet on the road, but great for that shiny happy person who doesn't dim their lights when you meet on a dark road.

• Lee

First step would be a couple of relays, to ensure that the voltage drop in the wiring is minimal, and a pair of diodes for the low beam relay so that they stay on with the high beams.

Second step, now that higher wattage bulbs won't fry your wiring, is stepping from 55w bulbs to 80 or so, and making sure the lenses are polished.

Lastly, two words: rally lights

You mean to say the Euro 850 doesn't have the same external shape on the headlight housing so you can't drop the whole Swedish unit right in? Or is the only difference the lens?

HIRs require some trimming on the socket IIRC, but plug into the existing 9005/9006 harness. You can also, as I recall from the last car I had with that lighting setup, trim a 9005 high beam to fit a 9006 low beam socket, this gives you another 10 watts.

Kenny_McCormic wrote: You mean to say the Euro 850 doesn't have the same external shape on the headlight housing so you can't drop the whole Swedish unit right in? Or is the only difference the lens? HIRs require some trimming on the socket IIRC, but plug into the existing 9005/9006 harness. You can also, as I recall from the last car I had with that lighting setup, trim a 9005 high beam to fit a 9006 low beam socket, this gives you another 10 watts.

The Swedes used the same housing for all markets as far as I can tell, the US just got a different pattern lens. The lens is removable from the housing, and you can purchase the non DOT European E-Code lens from a few different online retailers.

• Lee

Then I'd probably go in this order till I was satisfied.

 -Euro Lenses and both lights on high mod
 -9005s in the low sockets
 -HIR
 -Driving lights

And maybe a wiring upgrade depending on how the voltage at the socket looks when loaded.

Measure battery voltage with the car on, then measure both the low beams and the high beams. The drop should be minimal. I'd want it to be within 10% of battery terminal voltage. If your wires have cracking insulation, there's certainly been some water intrusion and corrosion going on. New wires and relays on a separate fuse circuit, triggered from one of the current headlight sockets should be all you need.

i LOVE my pencil beam driving lamps on my bronco. and as mentioned, IF AIMED CORRECTLY, they are legal and safe. i have mine aimed out at 20* angles left and right as of now, and only use them in the back country roads to help spot deer. the left one would literally blind oncoming traffic for a solid 20 senonds...not good. (again, i turn them off like you would high beams when traffic is near). but the setup gives me at LEAST 120-140 yards of advanced notice, about 40ft to each side. pretty good when barreling down a 55mph country road in a 6000lb suv doing 90+ at 2 AM...

i really need to calm down someday...

-J0N

jmthunderbirdturbo wrote: i LOVE my pencil beam driving lamps on my bronco. and as mentioned, IF AIMED CORRECTLY, they are legal and safe. i have mine aimed out at 20* angles left and right as of now, and only use them in the back country roads to help spot deer.

if you dont mind bolting a set of auxilary lamps to the front of your volvo, THIS. especially since you say you live out in the sticks, I assume less traffic, more opportunity to use the lights.

I have a set of driving lamps wired to turn on with the high beams. its like having a set of high beams for the high beams if that makes any sense, great visibility ahead for spotting critters at speed. I probably have about $150 tied up in the bracket and lights, worth every penny.

Aux lighting normally come in 3 options:

1. Pencil Beams - not nice for oncoming drivers.
2. Driving Lens - spread similar to your headlights.
3. Fogs - wide spread

A set of 55W driving beams can help and normally do not violate local laws. For example in Ontario you are permitted to have 4 active lights of 300 Candela or less. Since the OPP don't carry lighting meters they would have fun determining if you are breaking the law, but having driving lights is not illegal.

In reply to failboat:

That's a neat bracket for those in states that run front plates. Where do you get them?

edit: found it... Carr "Light Wing" model # 167303 (universal)

failboat wrote:

jmthunderbirdturbo wrote: i LOVE my pencil beam driving lamps on my bronco. and as mentioned, IF AIMED CORRECTLY, they are legal and safe. i have mine aimed out at 20* angles left and right as of now, and only use them in the back country roads to help spot deer.

if you dont mind bolting a set of auxilary lamps to the front of your volvo, THIS. especially since you say you live out in the sticks, I assume less traffic, more opportunity to use the lights. I have a set of driving lamps wired to turn on with the high beams. its like having a set of high beams for the high beams if that makes any sense, great visibility ahead for spotting critters at speed. I probably have about $150 tied up in the bracket and lights, worth every penny.

I would want something like that tied to my low beams .. I feel like I have adequate penetration with the high beams (at least on the Integra …not so much with the F150) and the low beams on the CRX are nearly worthless …

in my reading, it seems that the reach of your lights is more dependent on the lens design than the brightness of the bulbs … i.e. … regardless of the bulbs brightness, if installed in the E36 M3ty OEM lens, then all you get is brighter lights .. no extra reach … anyone have more informed knowledge about that ?

I would get a good set of hella driving lights, bolt them in, and call it a day (after aiming them correctly)

The 850R and turbo came with the option of a factory driving/fog lights but those require a different front bumper cover.. good news is, the interior is the same, so you can get the factory switch so you do not have to hack up the dash

It seems driving lights are to supplement the high beams, which is not my problem. My highs could be better, but they're adequate for now. My low beams are the issue. If I ever do driving lights, I'll relocate the horns, and mount the lights behind the grill.

In reply to mad_machine: My 850 doesn't have fog lights but there were factory fogs, at least optional for the GLT as well, maybe other trim levels too. The assemblies go in place of the little corner vents on the bottom of the front bumper cover. The R & T-5R had a different bumper cover with what I've always assumed were the same fog lights. There are pig tails in that general area on both sides of my car that don't go to anything, I've always assumed they were for cars with headlight wipers, which mined doesn't have, but I guess they could be for fog light equipped cars.

I have a pair of Hella 3x4.5 Optilux fog lights in a box somewhere in the garage, but if I understand lighting correctly fog lights aren't going to keep me from overdriving my low beams.

Maybe I should tell Santa I want some E-Code lenses in my stocking.

• Lee

Since no one else has chimed in on HIRs, they're pretty darn good for the price and worked great on my Intrepid, until I had a disagreement with a No Parking sign.

HIR bulbs fit in place of 9005/9006 bulbs. 9005 (high beams) get swapped with 9011 HIRs. 9006 (low beams) get swapped with 9012 HIRs. They have the same reflecting pattern as normal halogens (no lens/scatter issues) and are around 75% brighter. They use the exact same harness/plug but you must cut a plastic tab on the new bulb (http://shnu.us/HIR%20Trimming%20Stock.htm). Philips make the best bulb, but I'm not sure if the ones on Amazon are still HIR or not. I use the 9006/9012 swap on my Intrepid for low beams and they work great. Again: same bulb socket, same wiring, same power draw.

On a random note, anyone know the cheapest way to purchase, mount, wire, and switch up some rally lights to my front bumper? I already have duct tape aero, so who cares!

failboat wrote:

jmthunderbirdturbo wrote: i LOVE my pencil beam driving lamps on my bronco. and as mentioned, IF AIMED CORRECTLY, they are legal and safe. i have mine aimed out at 20* angles left and right as of now, and only use them in the back country roads to help spot deer.

if you dont mind bolting a set of auxilary lamps to the front of your volvo, THIS. especially since you say you live out in the sticks, I assume less traffic, more opportunity to use the lights. I have a set of driving lamps wired to turn on with the high beams. its like having a set of high beams for the high beams if that makes any sense, great visibility ahead for spotting critters at speed. I probably have about $150 tied up in the bracket and lights, worth every penny.

where did you get the bracket? edit: should have keptt reading. nevermind.

bigdaddylee82 wrote: It seems driving lights are to supplement the high beams, which is not my problem. My highs could be better, but they're adequate for now. My low beams are the issue. If I ever do driving lights, I'll relocate the horns, and mount the lights behind the grill. In reply to mad_machine: My 850 doesn't have fog lights but there were factory fogs, at least optional for the GLT as well, maybe other trim levels too. The assemblies go in place of the little corner vents on the bottom of the front bumper cover. The R & T-5R had a different bumper cover with what I've always assumed were the same fog lights. There are pig tails in that general area on both sides of my car that don't go to anything, I've always assumed they were for cars with headlight wipers, which mined doesn't have, but I guess they could be for fog light equipped cars. I have a pair of Hella 3x4.5 Optilux fog lights in a box somewhere in the garage, but if I understand lighting correctly fog lights aren't going to keep me from overdriving my low beams. Maybe I should tell Santa I want some E-Code lenses in my stocking. - Lee

fogs come on with the lows.. you could get the factory switch and fogs from the Junkyard (good or broken) for plugging into the factory pigtails.. and wire them to the driving lights of your choice. Then all you need to do is install, align, and drive. They will come on with the lows (if enabled) and shut off with the highs like the factory fogs

bigdaddylee82 wrote: It seems driving lights are to supplement the high beams, which is not my problem. My highs could be better, but they're adequate for now. My low beams are the issue. If I ever do driving lights, I'll relocate the horns, and mount the lights behind the grill.

Just wire them independent of the high beams and use the switch to turn them off and on. That way you can use them with the low beams or high beams.