So I’m in the market for a jump pack. I have a Duramax Diesel that on occasion gets it’s batteries drained by a travel trailer that I have no way of getting into to shut off things that the manufacturer may have accidentally left on and not all travel trailers have an accessible master switch to shut off interior power.
What’s out there that can handle starting a diesel that’s small enough to take with me?
I bought a Booster Pac because it seemed to be the brand I saw most shops using. On the very few occasions I've needed it it's worked well, and it's nicely made. They have a large unit for trucks which should be capable of handling your setup.
I work at a parking garage and we use a Clore Automotive Jump-N-Carry JNC660. It's around $120 on Amazon.
Do not get a cheap one like from Harbor Freight, they won't start a Diesel
What you need is to stop this from happening. I'd recommend a Priority Start - it'll isolate the batteries once they drop below a certain level and automatically reconnect when you hit the starter.
Alternately, put that travel trailer on a properly isolated house battery.
There should be a fuse or relay that is on the line providing 12v power to the trailer, if so, you can disable it that way. That is as long as that is where the drain is coming from.
Definitely get a good jump pack, Amazon or other online places will have them. Jump Packs <- good selection of them at this place as well.
Keith Tanner said:What you need is to stop this from happening. I'd recommend a Priority Start - it'll isolate the batteries once they drop below a certain level and automatically reconnect when you hit the starter.
Alternately, put that travel trailer on a properly isolated house battery.
Well the problem is that these aren’t my trailers, they’re new travel trailers from the factory. Depending on who builds them, I don’t get keys for them to make sure things are shut off.
I have a dedicated deep cycle that I use for the trailers, but it’s just there to operate the emergency trailer brake if it’s pulled.
One time, one of the manufacturers left the refrigerator on and I had no way of knowing and it drained all 3 batteries in 10 hours. Luckily I was traveling with some one else that I was able to jump my truck off of.
I’ll look at the priority start as an option.
I need a jump pack regardless of what route I take. Myself and others have had batteries fail in the middle off transport. Usually a loss of cranking amperage, but it sucks being stuck in the middle of nowhere.
In that case, my jump pack is an Optima battery in a canvas work bag and a couple of jumper cables tucked in on the side. That way I know exactly what the battery is 
If you're just transporting these things, you don't really need to feed them power. What about making an adapter harness for your trailer connector that doesn't supply power to the trailer so it doesn't feed off the truck? Only lights and brakes? Alternately, you could just unplug the trailer when you're stopped - I assume it's not draining the batteries faster than the alternator can recharge them if there's a fridge on.
I would guess that there is probably a pretty easy way to rewire your trailer wiring so that it's only hot when the key is on. Engine running would be even better but a little trickier and 99% of your key-on time will be with the engine running anyway. I think if you do that you will probably be able to get away with a 'normal' jump pack that would never have to start your diesel with no help from the truck's batteries. That's kind of a tall ask.
I bet there is a big fuse under the hood that powers the big red power supply wire in your 7 pin connector. You really don't need battery power into a travel trailer, unless you are contracted to keep the trailer battery alive.
As for jump packs...
I have a Jump N Carry 4000 it works great. It is pretty old (15 yrs old) and last year I replaced the battery inside. I bought that replacement battery from my local Interstate Battery Store. I seem to remember it was like $60. But, my point is that these are not "one and done". The parts are replaceable.
Now, if I was shopping for a new jumper I would address these concerns.
With that in mind, I think the Model 770 would be better with clamp storage and longer cables (not sure about side post. )
Ok, I think we’re getting off track here.
As much as I love the idea of pulling fuses and butchering my wiring harness, I’m looking for recommendations on jump packs.
I am commercial, so I have to have 12v power going to the trailer to keep the trailer battery charged according to DOT. Whether they will check that or not is questionable, but I’m not testing that theory.
The trailer thing doesn’t happen that often, it was just an example and there are times I’ve needed a jump pack out on the road and at home.
In reply to John Welsh :
Thanks, I’ll check it out.
This Mustang50 said:I work at a parking garage and we use a Clore Automotive Jump-N-Carry JNC660. It's around $120 on Amazon.
Do not get a cheap one like from Harbor Freight, they won't start a Diesel
This is what I use. It’s a beast. I have gone through a bunch of packs in the past and this has been the best by far.
Dose anybody know about the Halo brand?
Good info. Thank you.
I've used a Clore Jump n Carry for the last few years and it has been without issue. Just for giggles I picked up a NOCO Genius Boost plus today from Amazon to try out because I've been curious about the small Lithium Ion jump starters for a bit and it'd be nice to toss in my car with me.
The problem with the lithium battery jump starters is that they don't like to sit with a full charge, and they don't like heat. So fully charged in the glovebox is basically going to kill it in short order.
I've been using PowerAll units for years. One in each car, one on the Motorcycle, heck I take one on the jetski and ATV with me too. They have taken a lot of abuse, sit in the car for months in the heat and cold, and they have never let me down. I recharge them every 6 months when I change the air filters. Not sure if they would be enough for a Diesel, but they will start a 4.0 Liter Jeep Cherokee with no problems.
The advantage to lithium is that they put out a TON of current, way more than lead-acid by weight. I've got an Anker one (very similar to the one PinchValve posted, probably came out of the same factory in China), and it works well. ISTR jumping my truck with it once, although the stock batteries weren't totally dead.
That said, I'm surprised the trailer can actually drain it all the way down. Neither of my Duramaxes has run the 12v trailer power while the truck was off, only when keyed on. So unless you leave the key on without the engine running a lot, I don't see how the trailer can suck it dry. Maybe the alternator is running close enough to the limit that the max 30-ish amp draw over the trailer wire is pulling it down? Or maybe a PO on the truck rewired it?
In reply to codrus :
I have a GMT900 truck and from what I know, these have 12v power all the time to the trailer. The manual for the truck even says to hook the the 12v trailer wire to the 12v hot post on the fuse panel under the hood.
I confirmed that when I bought the truck because there was no 12v power to the 7 Pin connector and the fuse had been blown.
SyntheticBlinkerFluid said:In reply to codrus :
I have a GMT900 truck and from what I know, these have 12v power all the time to the trailer. The manual for the truck even says to hook the the 12v trailer wire to the 12v hot post on the fuse panel under the hood.
I confirmed that when I bought the truck because there was no 12v power to the 7 Pin connector and the fuse had been blown.
OK. Both of mine have been GMT800s, so that's probably why.
If I were looking to interrupt that power, I’d build a little jumper harness with a pair of male and female connectors, and just not join the 12v pins together. No permanent mods, easy to remove at will.
I own a Duramax with dual batteries and understand your issue. There are probably numerous jump packs that will work, but after much research I purchased a NOCO GB 150 and could not be happier. It is pricey, but quite the piece. You jump the Duramax using the battery on the passenger side.
What sold me on the NOCO? Watched a couple youtube videos where it was used to start an 18 wheeler. That sold me.
I am commercial, so I have to have 12v power going to the trailer to keep the trailer battery charged according to DOT.
Ok, so now it is illegal to have a dead battery inside the trailer. Good thing they can't prove it IF YOU DONT HAVE THE KEYS TO OPEN IT! Hah! GOT EM !
Keith Tanner said:The problem with the lithium battery jump starters is that they don't like to sit with a full charge, and they don't like heat. So fully charged in the glovebox is basically going to kill it in short order.
Found this out the hard way. Killed 2 in pretty short order just like you said, just sitting with a full charge in the storage bin of my wife's SUV. Pretty much defeats the purpose of having one, just gave her the AAA card instead. Other than adding nothing, i have nothing else to add. Watching with interest as I need a new jump box myself.
You'll need to log in to post.
