1) Has anyone done a manual brake conversion to a sportscar with power brakes?
2) and retained abs?
Mostly just a mental exercise, the commute attack car could stand to lose a bit of weight (bulky as she is), and I wouldn't mind an increase in feel. The Mclaren f1 did without em, why not me?
Using better search criteria, I found this.
retaining ABS is no problem, as it generally doesn't talk to the booster. however, if it's model year 2012 or newer in the US, it's got stability control and maybe that does get some input from the booster.
either way, retaining ABS is the easy part. pushing the pedal hard enough to get into ABS after you've removed a force multiplier that's somewhere between 5:1 and 12:1 is the problem.
So clearly the answer is multiple compensatory force multipliers and a balance bar with two masters? Yes? Maybe a different master (with smaller diameter piston) and a different pivot point? Maybe the pair will lead to excellent long travel modulation? Or will it lead to a spongy excessive one?
In reply to Carbon (Forum Supporter) :
Like drum technique from whatever Karate Kid installment it was in, "if do right, no can defense."
I did not convert my '81 RX-7 to manual brakes, yet, but while I had the engine bay apart I also pulled the pedal assembly for modification.
Basically, the stock Mazda pedal ratio is 4.5:1. The pedal is 315mm long and the booster pushrod attached at 70mm from the pivot. So, I drilled a new hole 45mm from the pivot (25mm higher than stock) for a 7:1 ratio.
There is a company somewhere in the UK that makes a neat little box for bolting up twin master cylinders with a balance bar in place of the stock booster. It incorporates a lever ratio in the 1.5:1 range too, so you do not need to modify anything.
Pete. (l33t FS) said:Basically, the stock Mazda pedal ratio is 4.5:1. The pedal is 315mm long and the booster pushrod attached at 70mm from the pivot. So, I drilled a new hole 45mm from the pivot (25mm higher than stock) for a 7:1 ratio.
as long as your MC pistons bottom out in the bore before the pedal bottoms out on the floor, you'll be OK.
In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :
That and a generally longer stroke to begin with are the rub. Fully agree that maintaining the dual circuit's failsafe feature is mandatory.
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