Miata Diff options?

Are the Torsen and the VLSD the only two limited slips you can get for the NA Miata? Is there no Salsbury or anything that can be swapped in? It seems like with as many people use these as track cars that a better option would have been found and developed. I currently have a VLSD and want something better with more tunability, something that the Torsen doesn't appear to offer.

Thanks
Joshua

Are 323 parts compatible with the Miata?

OS Giken appears to be the sweet one to have.

If you go with the larger diff from the 1.8, you can use the clutch style from an RX7.

KJ

OS Giken is the bomb. They really work well.

You can get a clutch pack for the 1.6 size as well, I think it's a Kaaz. Mazda Motorsports sold it if memory serves.

Guru used to make a preloaded and super-strong helical, but it's no longer available.

Given the greater ratio availability and stronger parts, stick with the larger 1.8 size.

I have a Kaaz clutch-type diff in my 1.6-liter Miata.

If the car also runs Spec Miata, the VLSD, Mazdacomp diff, and Torsen are the only legal options, so that's what most track day cars run. The OSGiken is real popular among the autocross guys.

I still use the VLSD in my '90 when it ran Spec Miata, and now that it's in F Production as well. On D.O.T. street tires, it hasn't really been a problem.

The OS Giken is around $1600 though? I keep wondering about the OBX torsen for around $300 compared to T1 and T2 torsen for $600++.

Teh E36 M3 wrote: The OS Giken is around $1600 though? I keep wondering about the OBX torsen for around $300 compared to T1 and T2 torsen for $600++.

I intend to give one a go once I convert the rear to 1.8 parts.

http://www.miataturbo.net/showthread.php?t=56707

The Giken works, I saw a significant difference with one. I could get on the power much earlier in the corner. I also found corner entry understeer, which is not a surprise.

The OBX looks like the same thing as the Guru, but without the quality or the price tag. It was a similar helical with belleville washers for preload. Has anyone in the Miataturbo thread actually done more rigorous testing than donuts? If you want to kill a helical, wheelhop it. They don't generally break otherwise. What you really want to know is how well it puts down power. The washers they're floundering around with are preloading the diff, which is going to keep it from the typical helical problem of simply going open if you vaporize a tire with horsepower or lift one in the air.

In reply to Keith:

So what parts would I need to do this? As I said I am currently running the VLSD, would I need a Torsen housing and the internals from the RX-7?

Links are always helpful to noobs like me.

What is "this"? What parts do you need to...

Solomiata.com has diff interchange information, it's probably your best bet. I've run the Guru, OS Giken, VLSD and Torsens. Oh, and GM Positractions. Never junkyard RX7 parts.

I've run the junkyard rx-7. Doesn't work that well- I only didn't rebuild because their are something like 12 clutch plates at $25+ each. So, more accurately, a junkyard, used-up clutch type diff doesn't work very well. .

In reply to Keith:

Sorry! This refers to the RX7 conversion.

I don't know anything about the RX-7 conversion specifically. I'd start with Solomiata.com though.

does team m factory make anything that will work?