I've finished my harness and the all the easy stuff with my microsquirt. The engine cranks and has fuel and spark but has not started yet, I'm assuming it's one or more of my settings.
This is my first megasquirt project, I'm assuming I should just download a profile from somewhere. Can someone point me in the right direction?
If there isn't help to be found here (there probly is), then a forum that is more likely to be populated by large #s of 3sgte powered folks might be be a good resource. Or even a forum for management? What's it in? Good luck.
First fire up can be tricky. Was the engine running on it's original harness/ecu recently? This might not always be possible but allows you to rule out mechanical issues with the engine. Are you getting good readings from all your sensors in megatune or whatever software you are using? Likely suspect is idle air/vac leak/tb adjustment, or ignition timing. You can rotate the engine with the plug for #1 laying on the cam cover and rotate the engine by hand and see where the crank is when it sparks. magasquirt requires more physical advance to yield the same ignition advance.
If the plugs are not wet feed it some fuel manually, I use Berrymans spray cleaner. If it still wont start spark timing is bad.
Use timing light to check spark timing while cranking. If you are using a distributor you need to check rotor phasing first and then adjust spark timing with trigger angle setting.
Have you done the reqfuel calc? Have you calibrated your sensors?
bentwrench wrote: If the plugs are not wet feed it some fuel manually, I use Berrymans spray cleaner. If it still wont start spark timing is bad. Use timing light to check spark timing while cranking. If you are using a distributor you need to check rotor phasing first and then adjust spark timing with trigger angle setting. Have you done the reqfuel calc? Have you calibrated your sensors?
This. It can be really easy to get the spark so far out of wack that it will barely even give you a woof.
Also, Sure you've got compression? It's easy to overlook.
Usually, you'd first want to be sure the timing is OK, then get the cranking pulse width dialed in.
It's in an old ford right now. The engine is a JDM(yo!) that someone had swapped into their MR2 right before going out to meet some trees with the front end of the car. The engine has not been run in a few years.
We've got compression, and it seems to be in time with a really strong spark. The plug was damp when I pulled it out so I know we're getting some fuel.
I have calibrated the sensors (mostly GM) and think I have the ignition set up to run off my 24-2 distributor that I ground the teeth off of.
I don't know what a reqfuel calc is, so I probably need to look into that.
At least the power and interweb is back up now, that should make this a bit easier.
Adjusted the tooth offset on the timing to -8.0 degrees and it fired right up, thanks for the pointers.
How do I download maps for this engine? The PnP 3SGTE map should work well for a baseline since the engine is stock for now. The one I clicked on keeps coming up as an html and not msq or whatever the right type is.
What do you need a map for it won't be right for your install.
It starts and runs start tuning. Get the idle good then lock out the lower left corner cells and let auto tune do the rest.
For some reason it was running pig rich with the fuel settings for a 350 CID V-8, lol.
Played with it some more and then the engine's spark decided to leave, so I'll be looking over that this morning. Tach still registers on cranking, so I'm thinking coil or ignitor.
How do you have it set up to drive the coil?
I've ground two opposing teeth off of the 24 tooth wheel in the distributor to simulate a 12-1 crank timing wheel. The spark setup worked previously and I had the engine running for about half an hour messing with injectors and such. The tach still reads in MSTune, so I think I may have accidentally changed something I wasn't supposed to. I'll go grab my settings from the shop computer.
But what mods are on the spark output side, and how is that one set up? If the spark output settings are backwards, you can easily cook an ignition module.
psychic_mechanic wrote: It's in an old ford right now.
I don't mean to sidetrack this conversation, but you can't do this to us. 'old ford' ?!??!one?!?!?
Are we talking about a Model T old, F100 pickup old, or Ford Fairmont old? You can't just drop a bomb shell of throwing a 3S-GTE into an old ford without some explanation. 
OK, here goes
In reply to MadScientistMatt:
Ignition 1 from the microsquirt ties into the IGT on the ignitor, (I'm assuming toyotaese for IGnition Trigger) No other changes on the ignitor or coil.
In reply to RossD:
Yes. There's a clue in my screenshot in this thread.
The MicroSquirt should use "going high" for spark output.
In reply to psychic_mechanic:
In reply to MadScientistMatt:
Changed it to "going high", still no spark, is it likely I fried my ignitor?
A quick trip to the local junkyard and I got an ignitor with the right number of pins off of a '96 Camry for $10 and now I have spark!
T bucket? Can you start a build thread too? Sounds fun!
Now my spark is acting really weird, on cranking I have spark to all 4 cylinders, but once it has started the center two cylinders stop firing. I've tried playing with the "next pulse tolerance" settings, but it doesn't seem to help. The cap and rotor and wires look good. Any ideas on what settings to play with?
Can you post a full data log and MSQ?
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