Finished except for weathering.
In all the craziness going on, I forgot to post up my '70 AAR Cuda I recently completed. Go Mango orange. First time using Tamiya tape for curves, it's great stuff. I had a little bit of bleed through but I also didn't seal the tape before I shot the black.
Oohhh, nice effect on the underside paint overspray.
Related to model cars, and also the recent "Cyberpunk cars" thread, I'm looking for some "cyberpunk" style 1/24 or /25 scale wheels and tires for an Aoshima early Countach buildup. Thinking staggered and mismatched, like some kind of "aero" wheel in the front and some super deep dish mesh style in the rear. Any idea where to get them without paying an arm and a leg?
In reply to vwcorvette :
Alas, that photo is not mine. I have 2-3 of those right now and had built one before though. They are stellar kits.
Nice Vette and Challenger up there!
I have one of those IMSA Mustangs mostly built, still needs paint and decals. I actually had it half painted but messed it up and had to remove it.
Speaking of which, this SVT Focus was supposed to be an easy build, but it fought me every step of the way. Parts not fitting, mistakes on my part, paint berkups, you name it! The front bumper got smudged but instead of fixing it, I'm pretending it's "weathered" as if it got scraped by something.
The ride height is still too high (despite hacking at the suspension a bit) but I'm not fixing it.
"Hino Girl" 1/32 scale Arii kit of Hino Contessa with fashion model modified from military figure kit. Now part of slot car track scenery.
"Mini Girl" Airfix car with another military girl, she is technically 1/35, but they work fine together.
Entex 1/20 scale Lancia Stratos I built about 40 years ago, posed on a real Stratos I was repairing.
"Spanner Girl" Another of the Master Box Pin Up girls. Posed with an Airfix Triumph Herald in its most natural condition, bonnet up.
In reply to BenB :
I have not posted an MGA picture yet. I think you are seeing an Airfix Sprite, this one below. There is an MGA in the far background of this photo. It is the old Monogram "49er" with the up top from the current SCX slot car. They are both dead on 1/32. I need to take a good pic of the MG, I made Twin Cam wheels for it and gave it a front air dam.
Here is the SCX slot car that donated its top to the Monogram static model. Note that the Monogram kit was a 1600 Mk1, and that the original mold got converted into a slot car body, it was Monogram's first slot car. The Lindberg mold is close, but not quite right. The SCX slot car is originally a 1500, but I converted this one into a 1600 Mk2.
Ah! I wasn't 100% sure it was an A. My eyesight isn't what it used to be!
My dad had a '59 1600 Mk1. It was around the 750th one built. I had to sell it after he passed away because I didn't have the time or $$ to maintain it properly. One of these days I need to track down a kit of one and build it. So many projects, so little time.
In reply to BenB :
Here is my Twin Cam in 1/32 scale. I seriously wish a good kit manufacturer (Tamiya, Aoshima?) would do the A in 1/24. There is/was a 1/24 white metal kit by AutoKits, but it is expensive and requires a lot of fettling to make an only OK model. I did this Monogram kit almost 40 years ago, and painted it with touch-up bottle acrylic lacquer. The dark metallic blue-green doesn't photograph well on my slot track.Upgraded the windshield/top assembly 4 years ago when made SCCA style racers from the SCX rally cars. I need to upgrade the headlamps too....someday.....
The only 1/24 MGA was aware of is the Finecast kit. It's now sold by Scalelink in the UK. I don't want an MGAs model badly enough to justify spending $125 for one, though. Kinda cuts into the 1/1 car and scale modeling hobby budgets!
Suggestions for frame lengthening needed. I'm putting a C4 frame under a 69 Stingray. C4 wheelbase is approximately 2 inches shorter. That's about 3/32ths at 1:25 scale. Looking for easy way to put the wheels in the center of the wheel opening. Here's the chassis frame legs. The forward mark is where the center line of the front wheels need to be. Thoughts? I could move everything forward by cutting the frame rails on the rear and spacing them forward with a few thicknesses of sheet styrene. Problem is that moves the radiator and the engine forward.
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