Mopar 2.0/2.4 vs. 2.2/2.5

Brainstorming for potential challenge build. I'm looking at a Turbo Mopar motor in a RWD configuration, and I'm trying to find out more about the 2.4. I know a fair amount about the 2.2/2.5, but I'm curious as to the internal strength of the 2.0/2.4. Basically, I'm trying to determine if it's worth going with the newer motor, which as I understand it, isn't as stout on the bottom end as the older 2.2/2.5. Also not as easy to find in junkyards.

-How strong is the stock bottom end in the N/A 2.4? I know the SRT/PT-GT motors got forged rods, but are there any other differences? If I could find an NA motor cheap, can I bolt the turbo externals to it?

-How much boost/power will a stock SRT4 turbofold support?

-What's the going rate on an SRT4 or PT-GT motor with accessories and wiring?

Right now, I'm trying to choose between a 2.5 block with a 2.0/2.4 16v head (been done, can be done very cheap, but lots of fab work) or just start with a 2.4 and hope it lives under lotsa boost.

I'm still learning these engines, but I believe the turbo 2.4 got a different crank, rods, and pistons. The block also got oil squirters. I believe the N/A internals are good to about 15 psi, or you can swap in turbo internals. The stock turbofold should bolt up to a N/A block and is good for 20 psi and 330hp/400ft*lb. Turbo engines seem to go for $1100ish on Ebay. I am $2700 into mine, but i hope to get that down to around $0 by selling off parts of the rest of the car.

Here's mine as it sat last night, just freed from the donor.

Hit up neons.org and look at how far people have gotten with stock insides. You should be able to do pretty well before it gets too scary.

You can swap out the rods and pistons for about $250 with no machine shop involved.

Outside of the turbo, intake, and rods/pistons, the turbo and NA motor are 99% identical, even down to the wiring harness. Just need the different MAP sensor and injectors.

These are dark times in turbo Mopar land... The 2.2/2.5 are getting old and becoming scarce in the junkyards. The SRT/PTGT 2.4T are still too new to easily found at the local upull.

The 2.2/2.5 are stout and if you have a stockpile or connections are awesome of course the only thing that lets them down is the head (assuming we're talking 8vs)

The 2.0 has no good cheap turbocharging option I have a used set of 2.0 Eagle rods and JE pistons I would get rid of cheap but still a fair percentage of the challenge budget. Otherwise stock 2.0 can deal with between 6-10psi roughly 200hp.

SRT internal 2.4 this is the answer you are looking for. SRT4 pistons, rods, rings, and, bearings inside a 95-02 2.4 (I like 01-02 PT cruiser engines slightly better head) stock SRT4 parts will deal with 400+hp the stock turbo (usually $100 or less used) can make 320hp with enough intercooling. Upgraded stock turbos (Forward Motion E1, SuperStockTurbo, Big wheel stocker) can get to 360 or so. Stage 3/16g can manage 375hp.

BoneYard_Racing wrote: These are dark times in turbo Mopar land... The 2.2/2.5 are getting old and becoming scarce in the junkyards. The SRT/PTGT 2.4T are still too new to easily found at the local upull. The 2.2/2.5 are stout and if you have a stockpile or connections are awesome of course the only thing that lets them down is the head (assuming we're talking 8vs)

This is kind of the reason I've been leaning towards running a 2.5 common block with a 16v head swap, no balance shafts, stock SRT4 turbofold, and whatever intake I can find that will fit. The 2.5 is pretty stout down under, to the point that I doubt the stock SRT4 turbo could make enough power to grenade it easily. I just am not sure I want to deal with the extra work that entails.

Is any one significantly better than the other when it comes to the DOHC 2.0/2.4 heads?

The hybrid is a pain they can be made to work but it strikes me there are some pitfalls. Not a massive difference remember a 2.0 comes with slightly better cams than a 2.4. I would say the 2.4t and 2.5t are very similar strength wise. Don't forget 2.5CB rods and pistons go in a 2.4 block

I'd find a N/A 2.4, used SRT4 rods and pistons, and go from there. The 2.4 head flows much, MUCH better than the 8v stuff, and the SRT4 bottom end is proven to beyond 400hp. I put this combination into a 1g Neon ACR some years ago, and it was fantastic fun.

Alright. What are the different oil pan/mounting options for the 2.4? The only factory RWD application I know of was the Wrangler/Liberty. Do they have a different mount setup or oilpan/pickup than the FWD versions?

What I remember from the Wrangler's, is they are the same as the FWD's. It may be the same as the Liberty's, but I doubt it.

But at least if you get the aluminum version oil pan, you can cut and weld it to fit, plus lose the worthless balance shaft "box" in the oil pan. The steel pan not so much since it's sandwich construction with a layer of plastic in the middle.

Quick hijack here- I need the rf steering knuckle for my SRT4- You got?

bgkast wrote: I'm still learning these engines, but I believe the turbo 2.4 got a different crank, rods, and pistons. The block also got oil squirters. I believe the N/A internals are good to about 15 psi, or you can swap in turbo internals. The stock turbofold should bolt up to a N/A block and is good for 20 psi and 330hp/400ft*lb. Turbo engines seem to go for $1100ish on Ebay. I am $2700 into mine, but i hope to get that down to around $0 by selling off parts of the rest of the car. Here's mine as it sat last night, just freed from the donor.

Go read this thread over at neons.org. The guy is entry level genius, and he answers some of your questions, I think. Just insert 2.4 where he says 2.0.

http://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.php?f=51&t=369388url

Full 2.4 will always be my answer. The 2.2/2.5 can still make big power but you'd be dealing with a niche platform. The 2.4 at least has some aftermarket due to the SRT.

As for 2.4T engines not showing up in yards yet. I've seen half a dozen PT turbos in one of the local pic a part yards over the past few months.

The biggest thing is the year model changes in the 2.4. The early heads use an oval exhaust port and the newer 01 up engines use a rectangle port. If you want to use SRT exhaust headers, you'd need a 01 up engine. It can be N/A or turbo. Turbo blocks are already machined for oil squirters, but they have been added to N/A blocks. It requires machining a flat area along the oil passage that runs parallel to the crank and then mounting the squirters.

01 up heads won't fit on older blocks without modification, the oil drains are different. Also the oil pump and pan are different on the newer engines, so you'd need a 01 up to use the wrangler pan, or use the newer oil pump and timing components on an older block.

My combo for the van is a 96 stratus block with srt oil pump, oil pan, and timing components. SRT pistons reversed on the rods for the 420A eclipse head.

If it was my build (I've wanted to do a RWD build, but I enjoy being married)

01+ 2.4, if you can't find a turbo engine, build a N/A up with SRT internals. Use a wrangler pan and pickup (last I heard you can get them for less than 100 new from mopar)

Wrangler/Liberty bellhousing mated to a MA5 transmission. You can also use a R154 from a supra, but the MA5 is becoming easier/cheaper to use. I can link you to at least two builds using this combo. If you want an auto I can link you to two more builds using adapter plates with torqueflites.

Yes on the links please! While my (slow) build on my '55 Dodge pickup continues, I think more and more about what to do to make it handle, have speed, and have decent gas mileage. Keeping it all one brand would be nice too. :).