Ok I am officially annoyed I re did your VE table to what I thought was a much better / reasonable one for you to try and when I went to save it and then import it and it is is gone. I will re do it and send you a MSQ with the revised VE table.
As always USE AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!
Dan
I created this for you. I will email you the file that you can import in to your VE table.
Here's my current running tune.
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B9YltSYEj-5nUk1GOWFCc2o5SHc&usp=sharing
Link to a few logs, and the current MSQ, still trying to figure out the source of my misfiring ~4500 over 10psi. New Plugs, Wires, .028 Plug Gap, MSD Blaster SS Coil. Pretty sure its an ignition based problem. If someone can help figure this out, I'll gladly reward you with some microbrew of your choice...
When it's misfiring, will the car continue to accelerate, just slowly? Or is it hitting a wall?
Will it build more boost than 10psi despite the misfire above 4500?
Yes it just pulls very slow compared to under 4500. tesla it'll build as much as you want, just starts Misfiring.
Did you ever find the boost cut setting? (Doesn't sound like that's what's going on, just curious)
I'm about to tell you to ditch that thing and i'll bring an FCON setup down with me.
Leafy
New Reader
10/9/13 10:30 a.m.
If you go to the TS screen that shows your cam and crank trigger input waveforms does it go all stupid over 4500rpm? I forget if we covered that.
It only does it under boost, l'll check on the way home but there should be a tooth log & trigger log in the above folder on my Google Drive that is set to public.
jpnovak
New Reader
10/9/13 12:25 p.m.
Looking at the VE table in your image and the fuel trim adjustment I see two things.
The blue bins in the VEAL adjustment mean you are lean. The dark blue means you are REALLY lean. These seem to occur as you are building boost around 4500-5000 rpm. VEAL is trying to add fuel here.
So, your VE table has an obvious fall off as you transition to higher rpm and probably higher boost levels. This is quite the opposite of normal tuning unless your turbo runs out of air at 5K rpm. I doubt that is happening.
I would increase all the bins in the upper right corner of your VE table such that you increase the fuel and see if this starts to help. Slowly roll into throttle from 4K and see if you can watch the AFR transition. If you floor it and the car is accelerating rapidly up to that point then you will miss the transition prior to the lean misfire.
I am sure I don't have to tell you that if it is lean then you risk engine damage.
It's not the turbo that might run out of air.... it's the motor. I would expect a VE dropoff in that range from one of these motors. But it's always looked a bit drastic to me on his particular maps.
Here's what happens with a somewhat similar sized turbo on these motors. The boost pressure is NOT dropping up top, that's just the motor eating E36 M3, because that's what they do.
What are your dwell setting? Does your coil feel hot after the problem? Base timing is set correctly I assume?
Standard dwell settings. max dwell 5.1ms, .7 max spark duration
Try dropping it down to 3.0-3.5ms and see if that makes a difference.
Try it in the morning. I'm a total noob to MS, car should be pretty quick when I get this issue resolved.
I've had one hell of a time with it that for sure.... Not quite ready to give up on it yet though. If it was an electrical interference issue wouldn't the trigger log be showing irratic pulse or something? Can someone give me an idea of what the VE tables scale should be roughly? I don't believe the issue is a lean condition and I hear no detonation occurring. I'm looking to run 20-25psi what should be the upper values in the VE table?
Changing the Dwell seemed to helped a little.
Hmm, have you tried dropping dwell down to 2.5ms or gapping the plugs any lower like .025? I don’t think this will solve your problem but I want to see if this makes it any better. Since changing dwell made a little difference I’m guessing your coil is not up to the task?
If the changes you have made haven’t made things any better, what makes it worse?
The plugs and gap aren't the issue. If changing them helps anymore, it's because something else is messed up and the plugs are just a band-aid. The coil COULD be part of the problem, but i'd be a little surprised if so.
Dan, you run an MSD SS coil, right? I can pull the stock coil off of mndsm's car today if you want to give it a shot. I use the Blaster2 on my car and Tom's car, seems to be just fine at well over 20psi, i gap the plugs to .030-.035.
I have a couple other coils that I can try, just figured since it has just a couple thousand miles on it since I bought it at the Challenge it wouldn't be an issue.
It was holding 15psi just fine at the Challenge, so i doubt that the coil is really at fault. Plugs and wires are definitely not at fault. The only other things ignition related would be ignitor, or settings in Megasquirt, that's about it.
Have I ruled out the possibility of noise being the issue?
Leafy
New Reader
10/10/13 8:24 p.m.
dansxr2 wrote:
Have I ruled out the possibility of noise being the issue?
Only on the cam and crank trigger. I guess its totally possible you have noise in the signal going to the ignitor.
Not really but I wouldn't think it likely because it seems to be pressure related.
Oops got ninja'd by leafy.
He doesnt have a crank trigger fwiw.
How can I diagnose that? I have noise filtering turned on.
Leafy
New Reader
10/11/13 7:35 a.m.
Swank Force One wrote:
Not really but I wouldn't think it likely because it seems to be pressure related.
Oops got ninja'd by leafy.
He doesnt have a crank trigger fwiw.
He must have a crank trigger even if its works like the miata CAS he still has a crank trigger or the damn thing wouldn't run at all.