Looks like Violet approves of the new dipstick.
Looks like Violet approves of the new dipstick.
Lucky Dog
Just found the directions for the ozone generator.
I did the third and final drain-&-fill on the transmission. Four quarts out and four back in. The magnetic drain plug was nice and clean again, so I am happy.
So, with a second round of "Lifetime Fluid", the transmission should be good for another 22 years.
The oil report is back!
You may recall that when I changed the oil a few weeks ago, I collected a sample and sent it off to Blackstone Labs to be tested.
This is the second time under my ownership that I changed the oil and had an analysis done, but this new report represents the first full oil change interval under my ownership, so it's also the first time where all the variables are known quantities.
The engine holds 6.1 quarts of oil. I used 5 quarts of Mobil 1 10W-40 and a little over a quart of Mobil 1 5W-30, because that's what I had on the shelf. I probably added another half to full quart of 5W-30 (gradually) over the next 5,000 miles. I used a Mahle filter.
These are the results of the second, most recent test:
(I also requested two more sample kits)
"Two more sample kits are on the way, and hopefully the oil you eventually put in them will look as well as this sample does!
Wear metals are at good levels compared to the previous sample and averages,
and that's certainly good news. If anything, iron shows even less steel wear than expected.
We did mark the viscosity, as it's a hair thin for 10W/30. Maybe that's due to the quart of 5W/30 mixed in. Regardless, it isn't a concern -- fuel dilution isn't to blame (the high flashpoint rules that out).
Looking good!"
And for reference, here's what they said the first time, when the oil used and it's age and mileage were unknown:
"We don't see any problems developing for your V70R.
Universal averages show typical wear levels for this type of engine after about 5,600 miles on the oil. Metals match up nicely with that benchmark, and that's generally a good sign that the mechanical components are healthy. The oil looks just fine physically
with no fuel or coolant contamination. The viscosity is in the 5W/30 range. Low insolubles and silicon show excellent oil and air filtration. We'll see how things look after a known oil run, but the engine looks fine at this point."
So overall, I am very, very happy with the health of this engine. It currently has just over 115k miles on it. I've put about 5,500 miles on it since taking ownership, and I expect to add another 5,000 over the next twelve months, pretty much duplicating the travel pattern of the past year.
This car is exactly what we need it to be.
Actual data, for those keeping score at home:
(First column is the most recent test, third column is the original test from last fall, second colum shows the average of the two, far right column shows universal averages)
Happening now:
SkyCam:
It took him a little longer than expected to get the old (original) windshield out, but from start to finish it took less than an hour and forty five minutes. Very nice guy, very professional. $350 including tax to install it at my house. Safelite.
Very happy.
New windshields make all the difference.
Slippery (Forum Supporter) said:New windshields make all the difference.
My first new windshield was an experience that will stay with me my whole life.
Also...he called ahead and showed up an hour early!
I was never really a shock tower brace kind of guy, although I will admit to throwing one on a '65 Mustang or two (they called the Monte Carlo Bars back then) and I think I might have had one on my 1999 Civic because, well, it was 1999 and I had a Civic. But earlier this year (early Covid), an old IPD piece showed up on a Volvo page that I follow, and I thought that it looked so cool that I just had to have it. The price was pretty reasonable but I didn't want to drive up to Eastern Massachusetts to get it, so I made a deal with the seller and he agreed to ship it down to me at my expense.
Alas...he boned me and sold it to one of my friends instead because he didn't feel like shipping it. Damn.
I spent a few months trying to find another used one, to no avail. This one had been discontinued by IPD, and they were now selling a (much less cool looking) Genuine Volvo piece instead. There are probably a ton of the IPD pieces out there in the junkyards on old 850s, but quarantine rules prevented me from finding one. Damn, damn.
So I finally broke down and ordered one of the (also very reasonably priced) Genuine Volvo items. it arrived a few days later.
Let's call it a totally frivolous modification on this otherwise (almost) completely stock vehicle. I really don't expect to notice much of a difference in handling, and I promise not to be that guy who says, "Holy Crap! This thing made an amazing difference in how my car goes around corners!!"
Stay tuned...
A few days later, a brand new Genuine Volvo Performance Strut Tower Brace arrived at our door.
First Impressions: Wow, this thing is really light and very nicely made. In Sweden!
It's all aluminum and weighs next to nothing.
Installation took moments, and the instructions even thanked us for our purchase.
The Swedes are very polite.
The nice thing about a factory part is that it really looks as if it belongs there.
Holy Crap!! This thing made an amazing difference in how my car goes around corners!!
Well...no, not exactly.
Actually, I don't really drive this car all that hard because, 95% of the time, there's a fairly large dog trying to remain standing in the back-back. But...
This thing made an an amazing difference in how quiet the car rides now. I hadn't realized how many squeaks and rattles we had coming out of the front suspension, and they're all gone now.
We are impressed, and would highly recommend this strut tower brace.
What on Earth do they have you remove in instruction picture number 1, and why?
In reply to einy (Forum Supporter) :
You have to bend the alarm horn down a little bit for clearance.
As a fellow owner of a Volvo on this platform, I would suggest you look at replacing the front subframe bushings at some point. The job isn't the most fun thing in the world, but they're a known weak point on this chassis; they have large voids in the rubber designed to allow some movement for NVH purposes, but mine were all cracked and split and allowing a LOT of movement.
Replacing mine solved a ton of problems I never would've expected them to. Shifts are significantly smoother, the steering wheel now feels directly connected to the wheels and the road in a near-BMW-like fashion, a large number of squeaks and rattles disappeared, and a slight vibration I previously experienced at 70+ MPH is now gone.
I used aftermarket solid Delrin bushings, but the updated factory Volvo XC90 bushings are also well-liked as a replacement.
In reply to pointofdeparture :
With the new front suspension arms, shocks, motor mounts and the strut brace in place, I'm ready to proclaim the front end of this car Guten Tight. Nothing further needed, at least at this point in time.
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