NB Miata running rich and low idle with Hydra Nemesis and stock injectors

So I have my Turbo Miata -Spitfire project running on the  Hydra ECU and so far everything is looking good. I don't have a tune for the 320cc injectors I had bought for it,so I swapped back to the stock 1999 redtop injectors so that I could use the FM turbo tune for stock injectors. I figure I'll keep the boost at 8 pounds for my initial testing and to get it running properly and then can add bigger injectors and turn up the boost later on.  So the car is starting right up, but the idle speed is low and the car is running quite rich. The FM tuning guide mentioned adjusting the idle air bleeder on the throttle body,but turning it in either direction does not seem to make a difference in idle speed. The car is definitely running very rich at idle, burping and spiting but smooths out with more revs. I would have assumed that with a stock fuel pump and stock injectors that the FM map would be really close and I should not have to go into the fuel map, but if that is necessary I can look into making a change there. Any ideas?

Is it possible to remove the idle air bleeder and make sure the air passage it controls is actually clear?

I am reading that they can get dirty and stick and I am guessing that is the cause of the problem. I'll clean it and see if that makes any difference. Any thoughts on  why it would be running so rich on stock injectors and a tune for stock injectors?

So my experience with aftermarket ECUs in general has been that base maps delivered from vendors are really intended as a starting point, not for full-time use, and are going to need a moderate to significant amount of tuning to your specific vehicle in order to really work properly.  Also, I had a Hydra in my Miata for several years (version 2.0, later upgraded to 2.5), and I have to say that idling smoothly was never its strong point.  I never tried 2.7, though, which was supposed to be a significant upgrade.

How rich is it?

Sputtering and smelling like unburnt gas so pretty rich out of the box. I don't want to jump into changing the fuel map but want to be sure before I jump in that something else is not right.

Do you have the stock ECU from the donor engine?  If you plug that in and idle it, that should let you validate the fuel system hardware.

Yes, I can try that, it would tell me if the issue is the fuel map or something else, will try that tomorrow