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WildScotsRacing
WildScotsRacing Reader
12/9/15 4:56 p.m.

So, they haven't ever yellowed, just 284,000 miles worth road grit pecking away at it. New ones aren't going on until spring. Looking a no-sanding solution to just improve the clarity for a bit more light transmission.

Streetwiseguy
Streetwiseguy PowerDork
12/9/15 5:07 p.m.

Gentle rubbing compound and power polisher, or hand polish til your elbow falls off.

Danny Shields
Danny Shields Reader
12/9/15 5:09 p.m.

Sanding/polishing is the usual method but I have witnessed amazing results from a guy waving a Bernz-o-matic torch across the surface.

XLR99
XLR99 HalfDork
12/9/15 5:27 p.m.

I just used the Mother's kit on my car. Maybe 15 minutes a side between hand sanding and using the buffer wheel. I think the kit was 20, and this is the fourth car I used it on.

The torch idea scares me abit

Stampie
Stampie Reader
12/9/15 5:42 p.m.

ATF works well at least temporary.

Kenny_McCormic
Kenny_McCormic UltimaDork
12/9/15 5:47 p.m.

Mother's kit works well, the one you use with a drill. I've also used the Rainx kit before with decent results, they'd have been good results if I put more time/elbow grease into it.

Dusterbd13
Dusterbd13 UberDork
12/9/15 6:01 p.m.

I love the 3m kit. But for a real quickie, mag and aluminum polish followed by wax. Works suprisingly well.

Burrito
Burrito Dork
12/9/15 6:15 p.m.

For plastic headlights you can usually get away with squirting some acrylic clearcoat on them exactly like you do with tail lights.

I usually hit them with some red scotchbrite really quick, clean them really well, then shoot them.

They will eventually need to be redone. At that point, rinse and repeat. YMMV, naturally.

The Krylon stuff seems to work the best out of all the brands I've tried.

Gearheadotaku
Gearheadotaku PowerDork
12/9/15 6:24 p.m.

Blue coral make a decent product, but spend a few minutes with some wet 2000 grit paper, its worth the time.

The Hoff
The Hoff UltraDork
12/9/15 6:30 p.m.

I've used a kit I think was called EZ1. It had a scotchbrite pad, some polishing compound, clearcoat, and a felt pad to apply the clear. Last one I did lasted a couple years. The key to lasting is the clear coat. I've been tempted to try a spray clear like Burrito did.

Otherwise the Mother's kit works pretty darn well, just needs to be re-done every couple months because there is no clear coat.

Woody
Woody MegaDork
12/9/15 6:31 p.m.

GlassyLite is cheap and quick.

DeadSkunk
DeadSkunk UltraDork
12/9/15 6:39 p.m.

Meguire's rubbing compound and a rag. Took 20 minutes to do my Miata lenses.

Kia_Racer
Kia_Racer Dork
12/9/15 6:39 p.m.

Someone told me Easu Off oven cleaner worked. YMMV I have never tried it.

Brian
Brian MegaDork
12/9/15 6:46 p.m.

Toothpaste

WildScotsRacing
WildScotsRacing Reader
12/9/15 6:56 p.m.
Burrito wrote: For plastic headlights you can usually get away with squirting some acrylic clearcoat on them exactly like you do with tail lights. I usually hit them with some red scotchbrite really quick, clean them really well, then shoot them. They will eventually need to be redone. At that point, rinse and repeat. YMMV, naturally. The Krylon stuff seems to work the best out of all the brands I've tried.

Ahh, this is very much like the old fine scale modelers' trick of dipping the clear styrene window and canopy parts in Future floor acrylic! Makes them look almost too new for a scale model! Which box stores usually carry the Krylon acrylic clearcoat?

dean1484
dean1484 MegaDork
12/9/15 6:58 p.m.

Q&D spray brake cleaner on a clean lint free rag and wipe/rub. Do this changing tge rubbing surface of the rag often as it will get dirty quick. Change tge rag as needed and NEVER SPRAY THE BRAKE CLEANER DIRECTLY ON THE LENS. And Never hold the brake cleaner rag against the lens with it not moving.

Once this process stopped removing dirt and the Lenz is smooth but hazy. Change over to starting fluid and repeat using less starting fluid on the clean rag than brake brake cleaner previously used. Rub untill the Lenz goes clear. This process takes a little practice to get the balance of starting fluid and pressure. Lenses should end up compleetly clear in like new condition. Apply clear coat.

I was board one day and discovered this process and have been using it for years. My theory is the brake cleaner acts as a cutting agent that actually dissolves a small amount of the plastic along with taking the embedded dirt and grime. The starting fluid is a much less aggressive solvent providing just a small amount of cutting while providing just the right amount of lubrication with the small amount of heat from the rubbing makes the final buffing to a clear finish work.

The0retical
The0retical Dork
12/9/15 7:04 p.m.

Rubbing compound works pretty well.

I did the lights on the X-Terra a few months back with the sanding kit. Then I stuck Lamin-x over them. Seems to have worked pretty well so far.

jere
jere HalfDork
12/9/15 7:24 p.m.

Wet sand with 220 grit then 400 grit then polish with toothpaste or headlight polish.

I have sprayed the clear coat acrylic and had the thinner (?) make all kinds of small cracks in the plastic.

wheelsmithy
wheelsmithy HalfDork
12/9/15 9:52 p.m.

OFF! or similar mosquito repellent spray. Really.

GameboyRMH
GameboyRMH MegaDork
12/10/15 9:48 a.m.

A lot of the chemical solutions you guys are recommending melts the plastic a bit - like OFF, brake cleaner, and oven cleaner (talk about overkill!). These will work but they're not the safest or most precise solutions.

Anyway once you get the lights cleaned up, you should apply UV-resistant clear coat to prevent/delay them from getting hazy again, like this:

http://www.krylon.com/products/uvresistant-clear-coating/

TeamEvil
TeamEvil Dork
12/10/15 9:55 a.m.

Second (or third) for the Krylon, works WONDERS ! !

Coolest thing is that it's an acrylic coating and most light lenses are also made of acrylic. The "bond" is better and the results are MUCH better than a quick covering of plain clear spray enamel.

Been using it for over ten years now and it's always done the job very well.

Tyler H
Tyler H SuperDork
12/10/15 10:47 a.m.
Danny Shields wrote: Sanding/polishing is the usual method but I have witnessed amazing results from a guy waving a Bernz-o-matic torch across the surface.

I do this with black plastic trim that gets chalky.

For plastic lenses, I use undiluted purple power. It will take all of the yellowing out instantly. Then use any of the above methods to smooth the surface.

Kylini
Kylini HalfDork
12/10/15 11:14 a.m.

PlasticX is my go-to. There's better stuff out there, but not at Autozo'reilleys.

I use it with a clean terry cloth. Or a t-shirt. Whatever.

Hungary Bill
Hungary Bill UltraDork
12/10/15 12:48 p.m.

I've had good luck with vinegar and baking soda.

TR7
TR7 New Reader
12/10/15 12:50 p.m.

Because I'm super lazy; polishing compound and a dremmel.

You have to move quick and never stop. Otherwise you'll melt the plastic and be back to sanding. I've never had less than fantastic results. Spray the clear if you want it to last a reasonable amount of time.

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