I think a big enough easy out should get that out.
Man that looks like you've actually got some workspace back there. I'd think a easy out would take care of this issue. Wonder what the underlying issue is though, why did it snap off? are the plug threads in the head damaged?
-Easy out the remaining plug part.
-get a tap of proper size and clean plug hole threads
-If plug hole threads good, celebrate. If not helicoil plug hole.
- check combustion chamber for debris. Find a way to remove debris through plug hole. shop vac/duct tape/small hose might work.
I agree it looks like the center is out.. Good!
Now, fill the cylinder up with shaving cream, THEN use an ezout/left hand drill (available at HF, BTW), and drill, baby, drill. Once that's out, vacuum out the shaving cream which will have caught all of the chips you created getting the plug out.
Looks like it's broken past the clamping surface. I wouldn't be surprised if what's left is only a little more than finger tight.
i wonder why it broke? bad angle while i was screwing in? too much torque?
Coldsnap wrote:
That's great!
And here's a picture of the generic solution.
Since there really is nothing "clamping" it in place (that came out with the top part of the plug) it may spin out with just a large screwdriver set in to it. If that does not get you the bite you need and if you have a large screwdriver that you are not in love with that will wedge in the center of the piece remaining I would take a grinder and put a bevel on the edges to sharpen them up. Make sure the bevel is on the corect side. If you hold the screw driver in you hand with the blade vertical you wuld want the bevel to be to the left side of teh bottom and on the right of the top of the blade so the flat side remaining is going to "bite" in to the metal when you twist it. Then place it in the hole and give it a light tap to just set it and try screwing it out by hand.
If this fails go get an eazy out it should spin it out no problem.
Quick lesson for anyone paying attention. Not necessary to use a torque wrench for spark plugs. Spark plugs don't need to be that tight. A short 3/8 ratchet or just a T handle is all that's required. Just a bit more than hand tight does the trick. I've broken or cracked a spark plug or two, usually when I get in a rush. Few things suck more than getting all the plugs back in and there's a miss because you cracked one.
It is just me, or does it look like the center already fell out? It is hard to tell from a picture. If it did, you're going to have to remove the head unless you want to destroy the engine. If not, it looks like a good recess that would take an Ez-out. I have a set, I'm in Raleigh, too, and I don't currently have a project. If you get really stuck, let me know. I may be able to help out on a weekend.
In reply to Brett_Murphy:
From the picture of the broken plug he posted, it looks like the center stayed attached to the piece that came out and the metal shell just sheared, leaving it in the head.
had this happen on an old aerostar van, the EZ out with a ratchet worked great. using the ratchet makes it go nice and slow so it doesnt throw shavings and can really cut into it before it grabs and un-threads
Good luck with the EZ out. I don't think I've ever gotten anything out using one. Hopefully, the way this one broke, it isn't stuck too badly, if at all.
I was able to turn it a few turns with screwdriver method.. hopeing everything is intact when it comes out.
spitfirebill wrote: Good luck with the EZ out. I don't think I've ever gotten anything out using one.
I have 
To second (or third, or fourth), one thing you should do is relax and don't beat yourself up on it. E36 M3 happens. You're learning. Nobody ever learned anything by everything going perfect. You learn from mistakes and how to get around them.
Once you get that thing out, and know that you will, think of what you've learned and how difficult and insurmountable it seemed at first, yet you still fixed it.
Next time something breaks or goes sideways, and it always does on an old car, it won't seem nearly as tough to overcome.
I've been wrenching on cars a long time and would have never thought to pull out my phone to take a pic of the rear plug and get a better assessment of what's going on. We all learn something new, every day.
-Rob
I had good luck tapping in a torx bit in place of an ez-out. Learned that here.
Brett_Murphy wrote: It is just me, or does it look like the center already fell out? It is hard to tell from a picture. If it did, you're going to have to remove the head unless you want to destroy the engine. If not, it looks like a good recess that would take an Ez-out. I have a set, I'm in Raleigh, too, and I don't currently have a project. If you get really stuck, let me know. I may be able to help out on a weekend.
PM send! Might need some parental supervision while using the Ez-out as I've proven myself to be hamfisted.
What was the torque wrench set to ? Just curios.
iceracer wrote: What was the torque wrench set to ? Just curios.
I had it on 18 footpounds. The back of the spark plug box said 18 lb/ft and I did a bunch of googling if lb/ft = footpounds, which it seems like it did.
Wait. I just come up with a completely logical solution to this.
Since getting that thing out is obviously impossible without taking the head off you need to do that. Then you obviously need some new ARP head bolts / studs. (minor details as to exactly what this costs or what ever) Then because that thing will obviously never be able to come out you need to go get a head from a turbo that will bolt on. Because you have to have a turbo head you then need to get a good used turbo and well that means intercooling and piping and Ohya possibly a little upgrade to the injectors or a fpr or somthing. Slap it all back together and BAM!!!! problem solved and you now have a turbo.
See this is really the proper way to fix this little problem.
Your welcome!!!
Wait till I start the cocktail hour I will be able to come up with even better "fix's"
Bahaha. I see your path of logic..
Coldsnap wrote: I was able to turn it a few turns with screwdriver method.. hopeing everything is intact when it comes out.
Sounds like you're golden. Put up pics of everything you get out to make sure you got all the parts.
ncjay wrote: Quick lesson for anyone paying attention. Not necessary to use a torque wrench for spark plugs. Spark plugs don't need to be that tight. A short 3/8 ratchet or just a T handle is all that's required. Just a bit more than hand tight does the trick. I've broken or cracked a spark plug or two, usually when I get in a rush. Few things suck more than getting all the plugs back in and there's a miss because you cracked one.
Not true at all. The chart you posted supports the fact that using a torque wrench is important. The lowest torque at 5.8 ft lbs to the highest at 32.5 ft lbs is a huge swing. I'm sorry, but your elbow is not calibrated enough to properly torque. Besides holding in compression, the threads are heat sinks and should be torqued properly to work. As tempting as it is, anti-sieze is a no-no also. It affects the heat transfer.
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