Is there a specific process anyone has for changing the motor oil after a blown head gasket to ensure all the water/coolant is out of the engine? The vehicle is an 89 Toyota Pickup. I was thinking about draining the contaminated oil, add new oil, filter and Seafoam then run it for about 5-10 minutes then changing it again. Sound about right?
Run engine for 2 minutes. Change oil. Run engine for 10 minutes. Change oil. Done.
DILYSI Dave wrote: Run engine for 2 minutes. Change oil. Run engine for 10 minutes. Change oil. Done.
I do that. Then I shorten up my change interval for the next few.
The last time I did this... I changed head gasket, filled with oil, tracked car for entire season.... put in garage... changed oil in spring. It still runs pretty good.
You guys CHANGE OIL?
Losers.
When I lived with my parents, my step-father would take my used oil and top-off his truck..... Never actually changed it.
Said I changed oil way too often. Don't recall exactly, but being in high school with a part time job, I didn't change it THAT often.....
See, this seems weird to me. A rinse, to kill any possible puddles of coolant, and nothing more seems proper to me. Oil reaches a temp higher then water's boilling point, and gets cooked out. Or is it the antifreeze?
antifreeze has a lower boiling point than water, iirc.
Strizzo wrote: antifreeze has a lower boiling point than water, iirc.
I says pardon?
The term colligative agent may better describe the benefits of these compounds in warm climates, since they not only achieve freezing point depression in the winter when mixed with water, they coincidentally achieve boiling point elevation of water. Colligative agents are properly referred to as both antifreeze and "anti-boil" when used for both properties. The term engine coolant is widely used in the automotive industry, which covers its primary function of convective heat transfer.
If it had a lower boiling point than water, it wouldn't work very well as coolant, would it? Pressure is only part of the equation.
^Yup, you trade less heat transfer capabilities for higher boiling temps and lower freezing temps.
TEchnically a water + water wetter system will transfer more heat, but it's not worth the risk on a DD.
I'm assuming this is the 3.0 v6? If so, be sure to replace the head studs with ARP ones. The factory ones are terrible and are the main cause for those motors to blow head gaskets the way they do.
its called antifreeze, not anti-boil 
really though, then why does switching to straight water make a car run cooler if it overheats on antifreeze/water mix?
Water has a higher heat capacity - in other words, it takes more energy to raise its temperature. Never call antifreeze "coolant" 
A Toyota 3.0 V6 with a blown head gasket? Say it isn't so!
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