Just spitballing here, but has anyone done a 2.2/2.5 to a modern 2.4? I can still find plenty of 2.4's in stratus or pt cruisers but old school 2.2/2.5's not so much.... I'm not worried about electronics because megasquirt. I'm more concerned with bolting it into the chassis and motivating it down the road through mechanical advantage device.
Thoughts on viability?
FWD performance sells conversion mounts very cheap (I bought as set for the challenge Omni cheap)
A-520 through A-568 transmissions bolt on if you get a big spline trans an SRT4 clutch works but is very heavy with a cable clutch. The timing window and CKPS mount locations of the bellhousing need some massaging with a grinder
The L body conversion mounts with a Rich Bryant dust cover/shim between an SRT4 engine and TIII A568 resulted in a 90 Omni auto axle being perfect on the pass side and the 90 Omni auto axle being about 1" too long on the driver's side. The DS frame rail in my Omni is modified omitting the factor trans mount bracket it's very possible that with that intact this would be a non-issue.
Between Neon/PT, Stratus, and Caravan accessories I'm sure you can find something that works. I'm using just an SRT alt bracket. No hydraulic PS or AC on my car.
In reply to Byrneon27 :
I was hoping a more GRM solution, ie- no money.
I do appreciate the reply.
I'll say it this way... I'm a talented fabricator, I love making things, and I'm a member of the spend no money camp and still the JRS mounts at $275 are worth it even when constrained to a $2000 budget.
They could easily be copied. If you're going into a K platform car and keeping the bobble strut my understanding is two factory mounts nearly work. Leave the bobble on whatever trans you're using build an adjustable bobble strut. The trans mount is the same assuming you're using a K platform transmission.
Using a Stratus style timing belt side mount plate and a TMN (Too many neons, Modern Performance) or similar triangle-of-aluminum motor mount adapter you can set yourself up to use a factory K car side mount bushing
The front mount is tough because the K car trans omits one dowel/bell housing bolt location to the 2.0/2.4 engines. The JRS mount incorporates both the 2.2/2.5 trans bellhousing bolt and the 20/2.4 dowel location. The "free" way to do this is to notch and weld the K car trans for a 2.0/2.4 dowel hole. Somebody on the Shelby Dodge Auto Club FB group made a jig to do this and he was talking about letting people rent/borrow it. Many people who have done this method report having to true the flange after the welding.
Mr_Asa
UltimaDork
8/4/23 10:30 p.m.
I have a turbo 2.5 and a 5spd. Interested?
In reply to Byrneon27 :
Do you possibly have a link for the FWD Performance swap mounts? Their website is hard to navigate to say the least.
Is the Neon head gasket compatible with the 2.2/2.5 block?
Pete. (l33t FS) said:
Is the Neon head gasket compatible with the 2.2/2.5 block?
Yes, but..
going from memory the oil oil feed and drains are not compatible.
so for putting 2.0/2.4 head on 2.2/2.5 block with oiling addressed, yes. For putting a 2.2/2.5 head on 2.2/2.5 block: no.
84FSP
UberDork
8/12/23 7:52 a.m.
Paging Wae to the courtesy phone? He converted a gen 1 neon to SRT turbo for a RallyCross Missile.
wae
PowerDork
8/12/23 8:00 a.m.
In reply to 84FSP :
That's a different beast. The EDZ motor will basically drop into place where the ECC motor used to live if you flip the trans mounts and use a little aluminum adapter plate on the right side.
The only advice I can provide is to not skip out on the front mount. I had to make a mount that went around the charge pipe to the intercooler and the structural collar that connects the engine to the bellhousing. I tried a torque strut from the A/C bracket area back to the subframe, but I think I broke a quarter-dozen motor mounts because that just wasn't enough.
Also, make sure you research the coil pack connector wiring and know which coil pack you are using as I think there were some specific difference between 2.0L coil packs and 2.4L coil packs. They are swappable I think if you get the wiring right.
But the engine mounting suggest is critical. I rememeber from my 4cyl Dodge days, soooo many broken mounts and bobble struts or car sheet metal torn. Torque has to react against something.