So im thinking of spraying some valspar tractor paint on the project car (john deere gloss black). Eventually it will probably get real paint. Probably.
I dont want to create a headache for my future self.
So, before I do this, what do I need to know about the future respray? Is it a simple scuff and spray, or is it a strip it down to bare metal, or something else?
So did I finally asked the question that the hive can't answer?
The problem is, it's going to depend on what kind of paint you use in the future, as to whether you will have a compatibility problem or not. There are too many variables to properly answer the question without guessing.
If the paint is catalyzed it will be ok to paint over. If not, I would strip it rather than risk problems.
Fair enough. The Future Paint would be standard Automotive base clear. Probably a high Build primer and a bunch of block sanding as well. Assume some body filler. Current paint is faded, scratches, mismatched, and ugly. But no adhesion problems.
In reply to Don49:
Uncertain about catalyzed. Its from rattle cans supplied to john deere from valspar. Is there any way to tell by looking at the msds sheets?
You will need good surface prep to get the tractor paint to bond well in the first place. Otherwise you will have to strip it and start over when the time comes for the "good" paint job. So, why not give it a good prep and paint one time and be done with it?
I just recently used the Valspar tractor paint on a trailer and it's not all it used to be. Within a month it was flat black instead of gloss and it's not as hard as it used to be.
Only thing I'd paint over tractor paint with is more tractor paint. If you want it to look nice in the future you will need to sand it all off before using real paint.
If it's in a rattle can, it isn't catalyzed. You'll have to strip it off before you paint over it with 'real' automotive paint.
Being in a spray can it's not going to be catalyzed, otherwise it would be a hard chunk of paint in a can. Tractor paint is usually just an oil based enamel paint, being oil based it takes forever for it to dry fully, and I wouldn't really trust it under another type of automotive paint unless it's been thoroughly sanded down with 220 grit and primered over with 2k urethane.
So I do have to ask why not do it right the first time and save yourself a lot of time and effort in the future? Did you get this paint for free? Last time I checked aerosol enamel wasn't exactly cheap.
I used single stage urethane that I got from TCP Global on the BMW project a while back and it shot great, and was very cheap to boot.
This is pretty much what I needed to hear. Thanks.
Reason I was even thinking about it was due to having a case of it, an ugly color/horrible paint job, and wanting to procrastinate on doing it right. But in the long run, looks like it will make life much harder than it needs to be.
Thanks guys.
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