So I have a set of lowering spindles I picked up for my Avalanche from Summits clearance rack last year and started to really rust up on the exposed bare metal since they’ve had to leave outside in a box. So now is the time to get my ass in gear and get those spindles back to usable.
Enter Evaporust. Yes it’s hawked heavily on the tv. I’m skeptical. But at this point, no blast cabinet, no garage, no nothing, what do I have to lose?
So, 3 gals from rural king at 15.99/gal in a small tub from Walmart...
Before:
After some more time, I thoroughly expect both spindles will be clean as when I bought them.
Flat out right now this E36 M3 works. I’m impressed.
Now if we can just figure out a way to dunk the quarter panels on a EG Civic Hatch, I could go back to owning Hondas again. 
kazoospec said:
Now if we can just figure out a way to dunk the quarter panels on a EG Civic Hatch, I could go back to owning Hondas again.
I once asked about the largest container size available.
Answer: train car.
In reply to kazoospec :
2x6 (or 2x10 depending on height of the parts) frame with a plastic paint drop cloth inside. You could make however big of a frame you need. In theory at least.
In reply to M2Pilot :
Lockable 20qt storage tub.
kazoospec said:
Now if we can just figure out a way to dunk the quarter panels on a EG Civic Hatch, I could go back to owning Hondas again.
Electrolysis.....Buy a used above ground pool, fill with water and washing soda, add some steel anodes and a welder and "Bob's your uncle" the rust is gone.
In reply to DeadSkunk :
How great would that be if someone were to get them to sponsor that?
I used Evaporust in the last few weeks. It was for some Miata suspension parts that were much rustier than Ranger50's and the results weren't as good. I don't think it's cost effective for heavy rust because each gallon will only "absorb" 286 grams of rust. If I were doing it again I'd start with electrolysis and maybe use the Evaporust for final finishing of the process.
We've used Evapo-Rust with good results. They've also set up and vended at the Mitty--- they were taking rust of people's old parts all weekend. Pretty impressive stuff, and nice folks to deal with.
Yeah, but you can achieve the same thing with a 10 second application of a high speed wire brush.....
Ian F
MegaDork
6/4/18 9:55 a.m.
wspohn said:
Yeah, but you can achieve the same thing with a 10 second application of a high speed wire brush.....
Yes and no. I have decent experience with both. A wire brush removes rust flakes faster for sure, but Evaporust will get into places it would be impossible to get to with mechanical methods.
I like that you can run it through a coffee filter and reuse it.
I've had good experiences with it in the past cleaning up rusty hardware and various pieces. I've never had much luck with the whole "lay a rag soaked in it" thing for chassis work.
So after 14 hrs worth of soaking...
Results:
That looks great. I've seen promotional videos for that stuff, but it's good to see someone I "know" having honest success with it.
Here's a cheaper, but slower, method, to use when you want to fill a kiddie pool or trash can, for larger parts.
Clothes washer floor drain pan.
I posted something about Evapo-Rust a while back. I had used some to clean up a rusty pair of chrome-plated bike cranks. The stuff worked, and the cranks still look good.
I have gallons of this stuff from when I was working on my Conquest. If you can spray big parts with heavy layers over and over, it works on them too.
I've had great luck with it in motorcycle gas tanks where electrolis doesn't due to shape and difficulty getting large enough anodes.
David S. Wallens said:
kazoospec said:
Now if we can just figure out a way to dunk the quarter panels on a EG Civic Hatch, I could go back to owning Hondas again.
I once asked about the largest container size available.
Answer: train car.
Was that a tank car filled with the stuff, or a container large enough to soak a train car? The latter might solve a few of the local railroad museums' problems. :)
