So decisions have been made on my V8 Bravada project that mean the driveshaft is going to have to change. If this is going to happen I only want to have to pay for 1 driveshaft. The 7.5" 10 bolt might be adequate for now, but if I'm going to have to change the driveshaft I only want to change it once and put something right in it the first time. My first thought was Ford Explorer 8.8 but I'm not sure if there's a better option somewhere else that might be cheaper and/or easier.
Thanks in advance.
Make sure that whatever rear you choose matches gear ratio with the front diff.
And explorer rear is hard to beat for the money. Unless you find a later blazer 8.5
That decision I've made with the drivetrain was trading the 700R4 and 4472 for a rebuilt TH400. Unless I find a compelling reason not to soon, I'm converting it to RWD. I'll be saving the other AWD parts for later use on a gutted S10 or maybe a G-body.
stan_d
SuperDork
2/12/17 8:53 p.m.
8.8 explorer ,traction lock 30 spline axels 4.10 3.373 3.55 ratio choices. With 700 I get 3.55. It has low 1 gear.
stan_d wrote:
8.8 explorer ,traction lock 30 spline axels 4.10 3.373 3.55 ratio choices. With 700 I get 3.55. It has low 1 gear.
Came here to say this. I got my drum brake 8.8. 3.73's and Trac lock for 50$. Another 10$ for the short side axle, then cut it down with a buddy, beveled the edges, welded back and rebuilt the drums. All in all, it cost me about 150$. I know a lot of guys do this for a drag car s10.
From what I read about doing the swap the 7.5 holds up if it never gets traction. The exploder 8.8 is supposedly a half ass bolt in on a S10 if it's not lowered much (pinion is a little longer, makes the driveshaft a touch long), you give the springs a smack outward to get the pins in (the spacing is .5" off), and run late Crown Vic wheels (it's kinda wide), better to narrow it and install new perches but it can work straight from the junkyard in a beater hoon machine. The S10 factory 8.5 is rare, and I think somewhat wide too (4x4 S10s got wider axles).
From what I found the most common way of finding an S10 8.5 is if its under a ZR2, which is nearly 4" wider than the already wider 4wd S10. I was planning a 2-4" drop in the rear. I expect to have to modify whatever axle I get at least a little bit but was wondering if there was an easy button I was missing. 8.8 still looks like the easiest button.
You can find the 8.5 s10 axle in most second gen v6 manual trans trucks and blazers. They come in all 3 widths, rwd, 4wd, zr2.
92dxman
SuperDork
2/12/17 9:50 p.m.
What about a Chrysler 8.25?
The ZR2 also comes with a factory locking rear differential. My 2000 model had factory disc brakes, and a 3.73 gear
My thoughts are simple on this. Ask yourself if this build is just for the Challenge or is it a Long Term Project?
Challenge only? Get a stock rear and go through it with new bearings, lube and a cap preload style cover if you have the budget.
Long term? Build a 9"
This is a non-Challenge project where the actual budget is small. I just want to build as much reliability as I can into it the first time.
patgizz
UltimaDork
2/13/17 7:17 a.m.
Leave it, they put the same rear in ls1 f bodies and it took enough abuse for gm to put a warranty on it. Are they great? Not particularly. Are you putting on slicks? Doubt it. It's adequate
As someone whos seen a 7.5 blown all over the ground in a v8 s10 on rock hard radial TA's id have to disagree with the leave it. That truck ended up with a 9 inch because he didnt want too deal with it again. 8.8 with a c-clip eliminator kit if you want to do it right.
Does the track width difference on the front of a 4wd S10 come from the frame rails, control arms, or the spindles?
TIGMOTORSPORTS wrote:
The ZR2 also comes with a factory locking rear differential. My 2000 model had factory disc brakes, and a 3.73 gear
if the locker you are talking about is a g80 then i would steer clear of it. They are not know for being very strong and often break even with stock power going through them.
Why are we still talking about this? Ford 8.8 or go home. Ford 9" if your building a legit drag car.
There are a bunch of the 7.5 diffs in our circle track "Protruck" class with aftermarket axles. They actually very seldom break, but a 100 lap feature will have about 1/4 of the field trailing smoke from the vents. Smoke is generally a sign of a good time to replace bearings.
Obviously the shock loading of a circle tracker is less than drag racing, but they run 350hp, and 16 second laps on a long 1/4 mile track.
In reply to Dusterbd13:
So my plan of 2wd drop spindles on 4wd control arms will lead to a bastard track width that won't match with anything. Good thing I was planning on a staggered wheel/tire combo I guess.
It's my understanding that round-body 2WD Blazer spindles are the same as 4WD spindles, without the hole for the CV joint. Belltech makes 2" drop spindles for 2WD Blazers, but they are not cheap.