like me? Seriously, I see some rust developing on some parts under my 2002 Sport Trac, I can't imagine just coating the parts as is but isn't that the point of this type of paint? If I take a wire brush to them by the time I'm done doing so I wouldn't need to encapsulate anything. What words of wisdom do you have for me?
Ian F
UltimaDork
8/27/14 10:33 p.m.
Depends on how long you hope it to last. The correct POR-15 process is Marine Clean > Metal Ready > POR-15 paint > top coat.
mr2peak
HalfDork
8/27/14 11:10 p.m.
Don't let it dry in between coats, it will flake off after.
You don't need to paint over it if its on the underside of the car (no sun exposure)
You'll likely be far more pleased with the results of rustoleum rusty metal primer, thined about 50/50 with acetone. Much less prep work is required, it's quicker, cheaper and easier to apply than POR-15, and lasts longer.
I have never had an issue with properly applied por-15. Getting it clean, metal ready, and paint it. I have skipped the metal ready step with satisfactory results, and painted without spotlessly clean. I cannot, however, speak to the long term results of that. I can say without a topcoat on a uv succeptible area, it'll die in a couple of years.
Sounds good to me.
I have a small bits of rust forming in spots on the underside of my Jetta...
+1 for Rustoleum/Hammerite for this kind of use.
I'm looking at this type of use too. Just removed the carpet from the E36 because water is getting in at the base of the windshield. There's a small amount of rust on the floor in a couple places from the water and I'm looking at how to stop it/get rid of it.
Hijack! What type of topcoat should I put on some Por15 bits that are going to be exposed to sun? These are pieces to the pool, not for car use...
WonkoTheSane wrote:
Hijack! What type of topcoat should I put on some Por15 bits that are going to be exposed to sun? These are pieces to the pool, not for car use...
I don't know that it matters all that much. I use whatever rattlecan I have handy, usually Rustoleum or Krylon.
depending on what chemicals are in the pool... you might top coat the POR15 with their own (POR15's) gas tank sealant
Ian F
UltimaDork
8/28/14 4:36 p.m.
Tom_Spangler wrote:
WonkoTheSane wrote:
Hijack! What type of topcoat should I put on some Por15 bits that are going to be exposed to sun? These are pieces to the pool, not for car use...
I don't know that it matters all that much. I use whatever rattlecan I have handy, usually Rustoleum or Krylon.
We used a self-etching primer between the POR-15 and a rattle-can top coat. It may have been due to the type of top coat - the info is on the POR15 site.
kreb
SuperDork
8/28/14 5:25 p.m.
I've had good results with POR-15 - even when exposed to the sun, except one time when painting an old, rusty ladder rack. It was bubbling. Didn't get that classic almost-like-powdercoat look at all.
Does anyone know what might have Happened?
mr2peak
HalfDork
8/28/14 10:28 p.m.
When I did it, it was thick, sticky, and impossible to remove from skin. It's self-leveling and left a very slick shiny surface after. I personally wouldn't want to use it again, but YMMV
Ian F wrote:
Tom_Spangler wrote:
WonkoTheSane wrote:
Hijack! What type of topcoat should I put on some Por15 bits that are going to be exposed to sun? These are pieces to the pool, not for car use...
I don't know that it matters all that much. I use whatever rattlecan I have handy, usually Rustoleum or Krylon.
We used a self-etching primer between the POR-15 and a rattle-can top coat. It may have been due to the type of top coat - the info is on the POR15 site.
Thanks gents.. Looks like the "secret" is the self-etching primer.
Kreb - Did you clean it off with brake cleaner or some other chemical like that? I've seen other paints fail because of residue left from the cleaner, and I've heard reports of Por failing the same way.