While assembling the qr for my sentra I use assembly lube every where. How do you pressure lube it before first fire ? I don't own a fancy oil pump gadget.
While assembling the qr for my sentra I use assembly lube every where. How do you pressure lube it before first fire ? I don't own a fancy oil pump gadget.
I don't know the QR motors, or what year Sentra this is, but how is the oil pump driven? Even with distributor-less ignition there's a way to drive the oil pump from outside the engine. If not, I'd grab a Sure Shot and plumb it into the oil galley and pump it up. Do it with the cam cover off and you'll see the oil flow.
Since it had assembly lube durring construction, wouldn't it be acceptable to pull the plugs & disable the fuel system, and spin the motor with the starter until it has pressure, and visual confirmation of oil in the top end?
Maybe send a few drops of oil down each plug hole, and if practical, pre-fill the oil filter.
Pull the plugs, ignition coil wires, and fuel pump relay, then crank it over till you see oil pressure. Assembly lube is more than adequate to protect everything spinning with no load on it.
I use one of these
It was $99 from Napa. Unscrew oil pressure sending unit, thread in fitting and attach hose. Fill with oil and set the air pressure regulator to 90psi. We leave the valve covers off to make sure oil gets to the top end and fill until the dip stick reads full. done.
In reply to Ditchdigger:
Seems to me that should only be used with a good dry air source.
Kenny_McCormic wrote: In reply to Ditchdigger: Seems to me that should only be used with a good dry air source.
why? anyone that is going to go thru the trouble of using a tool like that will probably change the oil after doing whatever break in voodoo ritual they choose to do to the engine, and once the oil gets up to temp any moisture will boil out and get sucked away by the pcv system...
It isn't like you are pumping compressor air into the engine. You are just pressurizing a tank to push oil out of it. Almost zero CFM.
If your compressor is spraying oily/wet air enough that this might be an issue you should probably fix the compressor and drain it regularly. 
In reply to Ditchdigger:
I've seen some things man.
Ended up cranking it over in several 30 second intervals with a hand trigger. No plugs in. Then fired it up. No extra noises.
That's the right thing to do, and kind of the point of assembly lube.
When I first started the built miata motor I just cranked it with the fuel injectors turned off in the ecu till the oil pressure gauge read something then turned the injectors on and started it.
What should be first oil change. I normally go 20-30 min then 500 mi then 1500 then 3k . Or is that just over kill?
stan_d wrote: What should be first oil change. I normally go 20-30 min then 500 mi then 1500 then 3k . Or is that just over kill?
First oil change should be when break in is finished, aka after 20-30 minutes of pulls and coast downs either on the road or the dyno, then the 2nd at 1500 miles or 2-3 race hours, then resume your regularly scheduled oil formulation and change interval.
I keep seeing builds where people put grease in the oil pump to prime it. Not sure if legit or bs.
Timeormoney wrote: I keep seeing builds where people put grease in the oil pump to prime it. Not sure if legit or bs.
grease or vasoline seems pretty common fix for oil pumps that wont take a prime.
When I had the timing cover/oil pump off I poured oil into the pump and rotated by hand. Until it came out the outlet.
Timeormoney wrote: I keep seeing builds where people put grease in the oil pump to prime it. Not sure if legit or bs.
Seems this is only done with the old school gear type pumps, to ensure they immediately develop a vacuum and pull in oil. Of course most of those old engines you can drive the oil pump with a power drill pretty easily and prime it that way(assembling the oil pump with just a coat of normal motor oil or assembly lube in it).
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