Prepping the Daily Driver for Track Day Duty

I'm scheduled to run a Track Night in America event this Friday at Portland International Raceway in my Miata. This is my first track day, however I have experience in LeChump and Autox.

I've checked the brakes to make sure I have enough wear left (hawk HP+ pads, stock rotors) and they look fine. I'm planning to top up all fluids, take a look at the belt, air up the tires (14" all season Michelins), and make sure the trunk is cleaned out. Anything else? It's supposed to be overcast with a 20% chance of rain. Should I install the hard top, or will they let me run with the soft top up if it starts raining?

Thanks!

First, flush some fresh fluid through the brakes unless you've done that in the last couple months. The boiling point of fluid goes way way down as it absorbs water through time. Fresh fluid is safe fluid. I'd put the hard top on just because.
Have fun!

Torque your lug nuts/bolts.

Bump up your tire pressure; I would start at 35 psi.

Prepare to have an awesome time.

Different tracks have different restrictions about open cars. I'd check first---although you are always safe with the hard-top in place.

You may want to change your brake fluid if it hasn't been done recently. A good flush, and bleed will serve you well on track. I'd also change motor oil both before and after the track day......but that's just me, and I'm weird that way.

Give the car a once-over to make sure it's ready. (battery bolted down? wheel bearings feel good? bushings look solid and not worn out? exhaust non-leaky?)

Have fun! This is a great program that should bring lots of new folks into our world! Thanks SCCA!

Brake fluid is about a year old. Boxheadtim put some of that blue juice in it. I'll see if I can give it a flush.

Hard top may not be required, but you'll want it. Rag tops are a pretty significant aero penalty. The only other thing you might want to take a look at is the overall condition of your radiator. Mine was starting to turn brown/olive (which indicates the plastic tanks are getting brittle), so I replaced it.

Also, don't worry about rain. Rain just allows you to drive on the edge of the "traction circle" with lower overall speeds. Its actually great practice. Also easier on consumables like brakes and tires. It rained all day at my last track day and it was still a hoot. I honestly think I learned more than if it had been dry.

Most sanctioning bodies require brake fluid to be no more than sixty days old.

Check all belts and hoses.

Torque lug nuts.

Remove floor mats and anything that can come loose. Especially the pistol under the seat.

Ensure equal safety equipment for both sides.

Check seat mount and chassis bushings.

Check fuel system.

Check lights.

Enjoy. Don't forget your licence and helmet.

If it's still got the ATE Blue in that I put in, you want to change that. After all you bought the Miata about a year ago...

I'd run the hardtop unless you want to clamp a camera to the roll bar. In case you have to put the roof up you get better visibility with the hardtop.

If it still has the same Michelins on, they don't like getting really hot. If they do you'll be sliding all over the place.

Brakes bled. That blue fluid makes flushing a breeze. I may be sliding around all over the place, but I'll be having a good time.

Fresh fluids, good brakes, nothing loose or rattling.

I'd go ahead and take an extra quart of oil. When I first started taking my 1.6 Miata out, it was going through a 1/4 quart per session, by the end of the next day it wasn't using anything.

Italian tune-up for the win!

Joe Gearin wrote: I'd also change motor oil both before and after the track day......but that's just me, and I'm weird that way.

That's massive overkill - I tell the same thing to a guy who says he changes oil before every autocross. For a mixed street/track car with modern oil, a regular 5000 mile oil change schedule is good enough, if you want some peace of mind maybe go to 3000 miles.

Making sure the oil is at least fully topped up is a good idea, look around to see how people have experimented with overfilling - for example you can overfill a 4AGE by about 5mm on the dipstick for racing use.

Decent brake fluid is important, run DOT5.1 if you aren't already.

For everyone else's safety and enjoyment... please make sure your cooling system isn't about to pop a hose and that the cap is holding proper pressure. If you are feeling especially courteous, water + water wetter only JIC. Coolant is not only slick as cat poo, it takes session time to clean off the road.

I'd also check for play in the wheel bearings, tie rods, rack and ball joints. Many a "slightly" worn wheel bearing has burned up in just a few laps. Same for any play at all. It will be magnified under load.

Empty every little thing out of the car. I mean everything. You really don't want that little electric tire pump you stuck in the trunk well back in October punching dents in the quarters or a $1.50 in pennies wailing around the inside of the car or... to have your EZ-Pass, snow scraper, frizbee full of weed ... etc up under the brake pedal. I have seen all of these flying around from the right seat. Clean it out and vacuum up the loose change and nuts/bolts.

Make sure your helmet has a snell sticker they can find.

If you mounted a camera, make sure it's tethered too.

If you have window tint, make sure to ask tech ahead of time if it's ok. Some orgs are sticklers for this.

Hardtop definitely. you can leave it in the paddock if they allow you to take it off but you can't conjure one up if they don't.

GameboyRMH wrote: Decent brake fluid is important, run DOT5.1 if you aren't already.

Boiling point > DOT spec.

Those numbers are just for minimum boiling points for on-road use.

For instance, Castrol SRF is a DOT 4 but has a boiling point far superior to the DOT 5.1 spec.

I'm about to roll out: lugs torqued, fluid ready, tire pressures set, sunblock applied.

metal valve stems and caps on the tires.

drummerfromdefleopard wrote: metal valve stems and caps on the tires.

Why is this and where would I get metal valve stems?

drummerfromdefleopard wrote: metal valve stems and caps on the tires.

Why I never had a problem with plastic, on 2 wheels or 4.

I run regular rubber valve stems on a 150 mph sports racer and have for years at the recommendation of a race tire shop w/ 40 years practical experience. I do change them annually however.

Regarding oil, on a mostly track e36 M3 I change it beginning of the season and every 24 track hours or the beginning of the next season.

Tire pressure I look for about a 6-8 pound rise from absolutely cold, depending on the vehicle.

once you have a rubber one give out at north of 120mph, you tend to not allow them to be called into question. After that incident I also decided anything that would see the track would also get SS brake lines as well.

z31maniac wrote: I'd go ahead and take an extra quart of oil. When I first started taking my 1.6 Miata out, it was going through a 1/4 quart per session, by the end of the next day it wasn't using anything. Italian tune-up for the win!

I've tracked this car in the past and I didn't use any oil between sessions. Still find that pretty impressive although having some extra oil on you doesn't hurt.

Huh well I guess I'm gonna get me some metal valve stems now, today was the first time I'd heard of them.

Edit: Why metal caps though? Especially considering that they can rust-fuse onto the valves?

Metal Valve Stems: http://amzn.to/1Pm3p8z

Everything listed above. Also, don't forget to empty out anything loose in the cockpit. Check under seats, remove floor mats, storage bins, door pockets, etc. You don't want any projectiles or anything stuck under the pedals.

I remembered another one: wash your windows inside and out. Don't want to get blinded coming into the sun.

Also don't use belt dressing on your belts!